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Well, I was hoping to get some more ideas about what I could test without access to under the vehicle. Got a mightyvac and going to slowly (seized bleeders) work on replacing all the brake fluid (a flush more or less) and if the problem persists, I can assume its most likely the MC or a leak. I park in the garage every night and I never really noticed any unusual leaks (I know my PS pump leaks and I lose a little oil from my breather filter). And from my house to my work, I only brake twice, so that’s nice.
When my MAF sensor went, it did a similar thing (84 Z31, I’m assuming your Maxima has the VG30E, which is the same engine as mine). If a good and through cleaning doesn’t fix the issue (and the harness is good), unplug the connector from the MAF. Start the car. If it runs a lot smoother and idles properly, the MAF is bad.
When my MAF sensor went, it did a similar thing (84 Z31, I’m assuming your Maxima has the VG30E, which is the same engine as mine). If a good and through cleaning doesn’t fix the issue (and the harness is good), unplug the connector from the MAF. Start the car. If it runs a lot smoother and idles properly, the MAF is bad.
Pads were replaced 6 months ago (as well as rotors). All disc brakes (gotta love how Nissan over-engineered their vehicles in the 70’s and 80’s). A bit difficult to check for leaks as my jack is MIA and I don’t have access to a lift till Friday at best (and I’ll have to order parts, so here is hoping I have any brakes by then or I’ll be downshifting and using the parking brake like a b****. And I can confirm that the fluid level in the reservoir dropped .5mm in the past week. If I have a pinhole leak, could it allow my brakes to build pressure by pumping but then go soft again?
Pads were replaced 6 months ago (as well as rotors). All disc brakes (gotta love how Nissan over-engineered their vehicles in the 70’s and 80’s). A bit difficult to check for leaks as my jack is MIA and I don’t have access to a lift till Friday at best (and I’ll have to order parts, so here is hoping I have any brakes by then or I’ll be downshifting and using the parking brake like a b****. And I can confirm that the fluid level in the reservoir dropped .5mm in the past week. If I have a pinhole leak, could it allow my brakes to build pressure by pumping but then go soft again?
Sorry for the late response, I’m in the process of moving. I got the truck out of limp mode. I replaced the computer due to bad readings and replaced the ignition switch and it’s giving a better voltage reading.
Thanks for everyone’s help. I appreciate it (especially the wiring diagram and PCM voltage readings).
Sorry for the late response, I’m in the process of moving. I got the truck out of limp mode. I replaced the computer due to bad readings and replaced the ignition switch and it’s giving a better voltage reading.
Thanks for everyone’s help. I appreciate it (especially the wiring diagram and PCM voltage readings).
I’ll back track everything relating to the transmission fuse and ignition tomorrow to double check. I found the voltage drop at the transmission fuse was due to a poor connection with the terminal for the fuse. Reinserted the wire all the way for the fuse block and my voltage was normal.
I’ll back track everything relating to the transmission fuse and ignition tomorrow to double check. I found the voltage drop at the transmission fuse was due to a poor connection with the terminal for the fuse. Reinserted the wire all the way for the fuse block and my voltage was normal.
You can replace one side and be fine. It’s not a wearable item like struts, brakes, or tires. Almost all the shops out there will replace the damaged one and you’re good (with an alignment of course). As for what Barneyb mentioned happened to him, sometimes that happens. When parts are old and weak, they can go at any time. For ball joints and tie rods, they pretty much go when they go. There isn’t much you can do about it. If you’re having your mechanic do it, I’d suggest having the other side done too. Most shops charge by the hour (some by the job). If he charges by the hour, both tie rods can be done within an hour on a lift. If he charges by the job, just getting the bad tie rod replaced will be sufficient.
You can replace one side and be fine. It’s not a wearable item like struts, brakes, or tires. Almost all the shops out there will replace the damaged one and you’re good (with an alignment of course). As for what Barneyb mentioned happened to him, sometimes that happens. When parts are old and weak, they can go at any time. For ball joints and tie rods, they pretty much go when they go. There isn’t much you can do about it. If you’re having your mechanic do it, I’d suggest having the other side done too. Most shops charge by the hour (some by the job). If he charges by the hour, both tie rods can be done within an hour on a lift. If he charges by the job, just getting the bad tie rod replaced will be sufficient.
The pads and caliper hold the rotor on pretty well. But they can move a little on the opposite end. When you bolt the wheel back on, it’ll compress the rotor and give a solid fit. If you can almost remove the rotor off a lug or two with everything installed, I’d be measuring the rotor specs with OEM rotor specs. But if the opposite end of the rotor (from caliper and pads) moves a 2-3 inches maximum, you should be fine.
The pads and caliper hold the rotor on pretty well. But they can move a little on the opposite end. When you bolt the wheel back on, it’ll compress the rotor and give a solid fit. If you can almost remove the rotor off a lug or two with everything installed, I’d be measuring the rotor specs with OEM rotor specs. But if the opposite end of the rotor (from caliper and pads) moves a 2-3 inches maximum, you should be fine.