Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
[quote=”MDK22″ post=135334]If you read that post chevyman21 linked you too there is a lot of good info in there suggested brands etc. Also farm/barn sales and estate stales are another place to get them cheap. I use a lot of craftsman tools, etc.[/quote]
By the way… those Grey Pneumatic socket sets you recommended, very nice.[quote=”AHB” post=134917]Hello everybody!
I bought a car (mitsubishi). But I dont know what type of engine oil should I use.when I checked the manual i found thisIts not mentioned to use a specific viscosity.[/quote]
I couldn’t read your picture very well, but it looks as if it’s laying out which viscosity is best for certain climates/temps. The picture on the document was a little hard for my terrible eyes to see. Another resource is to look up your specific model online. For example, just good what oil weight does a (insert year and car make and model) use? You should get an answer, and another option is just simply popping your hood and looking at the oil cap itself. In most cases it will tell you what oil weight you should use.[quote=”Pitt” post=134864]Got a job with a Toyota dealership. Starting out as a lube tech. Start factory training this fall.
The funny part, literally after I hang up from accepting the offer to work at Toyota my old boss text me and ask what it would take for me to work for them again at Hyundai.
I texted him back ‘two weeks after hell freezes over’.
Anything I should know about Toyota? ToyotaKarl any suggestions?[/quote]
I swear, we’re like the same person. Both very close to getting engineering degrees, both Toyota lube techs, both in T-Ten (I assume that is what you mean by factory training).What I can tell you is that you’ll probably be working in a team of two. All of the lube techs in my garage work in teams of two as tech A and tech B. Usually an oil change means taking the tires off and tire rotations, checking the tread depth, changing the cabin air filter and driving the car out to the wash as tech B which is where you’ll be starting — that is if they have “Toyota express lube service”.
At my shop they provide you with torque wrenches, which you need to use to torque down the tires to 76-80 ft lbs, unless you get a Sequoia, or Tundra post 2006 — those are at 100 ft lbs. Generally you can use the tech A’s tools if you’re just starting out, but I would get a impact gun, and basic hand tool set, doesn’t matter if it’s Harbor Freight. I would also plan on saving up for an cordless 3/4 inch drive impact gun. A lot of the lube techs use Dewalt’s, they’re pretty affordable, and you will most likely be able to use them well after you’ve moved on from being a lube tech. You probably can just borrow one if you need it for the time being. You will probably only need it if your tech A is busy.
You will probably be asked to take do tire patches. What is very important is unscrewing the TPMS sensor and pushing it INTO the tire. I believe the TPMS fastener is 12mm. Take that off, and push that sensor down into the tire, THEN you can break the bead on the tire. If you try breaking the bead loose while the TPMS sensor is still in the tire, you will break it. That part is around 250 dollars, very expensive. I repeat do not lose it, do not break it or you will be in big trouble. The TPMS sensor is connected to the shrader valve that you use to put air into the tire.
A tool I would invest in is a Toyota oil filter wrench, trust me you will need it. The oil filters on the newer Camry’s, Prius’s, Corrolla’s and a few other models are VERY difficult to get out even with an oil filter wrench. When taking these oil filters off you don’t want to put too much torque on the housing that contains the oil filter (the oil filter is contained in a housing) or else you will break it and it will be a nightmare. The repair will be very expensive and you will either be fired, or get chewed out if you bust it. If the manager doesn’t trust you it will also be hard to move over to repair. So… if you need extra leverage, which sometimes you WILL BE CAREFUL. Also if you are putting the drain plug back in torque it to 25 ft lbs. The Toyota oil pans are easy to crack, you DO NOT want to over torque it.
At your shop you will also be doing some light maintenance as well. We lube techs flush the radiator from time to time, change batteries, headlights, etc, and sometimes take on menial repairs. You will also probably get a spiff for any service that you suggested, and is purchased by the customer. In my case I had to wait a month before they started giving me that spiff.
If I think of anything more to tell you or warn you about I will chime in again. Good luck man.
[quote=”BurnoutEnthusiast23″ post=134624]Guys, don’t get me wrong, I don’t think I’m a hotshot technician who has all the tools and needs the biggest fanciest box. Fact is my box is by far the weak link, I’m buying a new one. Since I am in a position where right now, I can afford a nice box, and I will be in school shortly where I get 35-50% off list price, isn’t this the time to buy a big expensive item I will envariably end up getting at some point anyways?[/quote]Here is why you do not want to get that fancy big box now. Ultimately that box is not what makes you money, it’s not just your speed and skill as a technician that makes you money, it is the tools that you have at your disposal. That box is nothing else but a place to store your tools, it will not help you remove a bolt that is in a tough area to reach, nor will it help you diagnose tough electrical faults, nor will it help you find vacuum leaks, or help pry off rusty bolts. If I were you I would spend that money that is burning a hole in your pocket on the tools needed to make you extra money in the future. That 6-12,000 dollar box could be put to better use on tools that will actually make you money as opposed to just sitting in one spot, and storing tools.
I will repeat myself again; your box is not going to be making you money, but tools will. I don’t know if you’re already on flat rate or not, but from what I’ve seen at my shop flat rate absolutely eats the new techs alive. Do yourself a favor and skip the fancy tool box, and get yourself a harbor freight cart. If you catch a sale you can pick one up for 99 dollars, that cart will be invaluable to you in the future. Besides, you can find gently used Snap On, and Mac boxes in craigslist, and pawnshops for over half off. I’ve seen Macsimizer’s for as low as $2500 that look as if they have never been used before. The one I’m talking about that was 2500 was normally an 8000 dollar box new.
As a new tech you will have a lot stacked against you, especially if you’re just going to a tech school and not working in the field. Unless you are coming from a factory training program that matches you up with a dealership, and lets you work in the field while you spend two years in tech school, chances are you’re going to be starting out as a lube tech. There is a guy I work with that graduated from UTI that is working beside me, a random just off the street. You know what we do? We change oil, we’re lube techs, and if we’re lucky we get to do light maintenance.
[quote=”xist” post=134369]I do not know about newer Subarus, but my 1999 has had too many repairs. I thought three hoses, two tires, and the battery in one years was frustrating, but thought the Arizona heat could have killed them. I allowed my ex to drive it for one year and I believe she was hard on it. She was not bright, but she easily replaced the spark plugs and wires on my Civic, while I needed to remove the battery, windshield washer reservoir, and intake in order to to replace the spark plugs and wires. I believe the shop wanted to charge two hundred dollars for that.
I have been trying to decide whether to replace the head gasket or sell the car as-is.[/quote]
Three hoses, two tires, and a battery are a lot of repairs? Tires are wear items, batteries go old with age, and hoses can dry rot from age. You’re driving around a 15 year old car…. Spark plugs are also an item that you need to change out.[quote=”Hokiedad4″ post=134276]I’m sure every generation of car enthusiasts believes the same thing. Not that I’m saying you’re a Luddite…[/quote]
There is actual hard evidence to suggest that cars are starting to get less reliable as opposed to more reliable. A study did in 2014 stated that cars are actually starting to have a drop in reliability for the first time since 1998. Eric himself made a great video about how the quality of Honda started going downhill while he was a technician. He mentioned that Honda was starting to cheap out on materials, for example instead of using stainless steel exhaust that would last practically forever, they used regular cheap steel.I think the same problem will crop up with electronics. The more money you devote to putting in the latest, and greatest consumer electronics into your car, the more the mechanic aspects of the car will suffer. Car manufacturers NEED to keep their cars at a certain price point so their consumers can afford them and part of that is perhaps skimping on certain materials, and components that go into the car. Andrew also made a very valid point about replacement parts; where will you be able to find all of these things after the dealership stops carrying them? I highly doubt the aftermarket will be able to keep up with everything. Repair has also become a nightmare for certain electrical components in vehicles. Shops are starting to need to hire what are called field technicians to deal with some of these electrical problems. These guys are paid sometimes 75 to 100 dollars an hour, and they are not employees of the dealership, but rather are more of independent contractors.
I don’t mind electronics in vehicles, but I feel as if things are moving too fast in that direction, and I can guarantee you that it will lead to problems down the road.
[quote=”Tinsandwich” post=134045]Hey Nick,
Not a dumb question at all. I haven’t done a lot of looking under the vehicle because of the limits of the equipment I currently have. I have an Autocraft jack I bought from Advance Auto Parts that is better than the one that comes with the car; that, a pair of jack stands and wheel chocks have enabled me to do oil changes but is sort of limited for raising the vehicle enough to really get under there and still feel safe. (What I have seen however does not appear to be leaking nor is there that typical burnt oil smell and there is no spotting of the driveway.)
I am, however, looking into getting a better/real floor jack but am not sure what to purchase because some get bad reviews and others weigh a lot. I am able to get around not having a lot of upper-body strength by using a pipe on the end of 1/2″ ratchets etc. but wouldn’t be able to heft a heavy jack were I to have to move it other than on its wheels. Since you sent that excellent video, for which I am grateful, could you recommend a floor jack? If I am able to afford it then I can follow your advice and really look under the car to see if I can spot anything.
Also, since I am the third owner and got the car when it was six years old, I do not know what type of oil was used in those first six years or the frequency of oil changes. I, myself, have had both service garages and myself doing oil changes since I have had the car and, yes, the frequency of the changes could have been better (should be done every 5K miles per Toyota) but the oil was the correct type for the vehicle (5W-30) and the filter always changed.
The folks at the service garage have mentioned to me that the oil has been low when they did the change. I think they said it was down a quart. They also knew the previous owner and said that she didn’t always keep up with the level either. At this point I don’t want this sneaking up on me and plan to check it more often.
Thanks,
Kathryn[/quote]
Sorry if my reading comprehension is off, I’m tired and am going off of very little sleep. Did you say that you have changed your own oil before? I don’t know if your vehicle still has it, but most Prius’s have a plastic splash guard covering the entire undercarriage of the car. Does your Prius still have that splash guard? If so, when you get the right equipment, remove the splash guard and take a close look at bottom of the engine with a flash light. Your Prius should have an area marked service, or something of that nature, and what that will lead you to is the oil pan and drain plug of your car when you take that part of the splash guard off. If you’ve already done this disregard what I just said.You should also check the top area of your engine for leaks, though I’m sure you’ve already been doing that. If you can remove the plastic cover on the engine and check if you can find any oil leaks there as well. The thing that sucks about the Prius’s, is that everything is in cased in plastic so you may have to remove some of that plastic to get a good look.
After you have checked for leaks, top off your oil and monitor the oil levels once a week, maybe more if your problem is bad. In my experience there were some engines that have come into the Toyota dealership that I work at with worn piston rings that didn’t have oil that burnt or rancid smell to it. Funnily enough, I’ve actually seen quite a few newer Toyota’s with low mileage coming in with worn piston rings, and oil consumption problems.
[quote=”DJBLUEDIRTY” post=133996]Again another person commenting with what i already know and don’t want to hear. Just answer the damn question or shut up. :side:[/quote]
Many others in this thread have already detailed why there isn’t any detailed information. It’s difficult, very expensive, and potentially damaging. Because of these factors there aren’t many DIYers or Customers or Technicians doing these types of conversions. Let me ask you this; why do you want a push button start system? Are you just enamored by the idea? Do you think it would be an anti theft deterrent? Do you think it would make things more convenient for you? Do you think it will possibly save you money?Let me ask you this; how much is this worth to you? I’m telling you right now that there aren’t many technicians willing to do this conversion, and if you find one you’re likely to be paying a pretty penny. If you think you can do it yourself let me ask you, what is your experience with doing your own repairs? Do you have any fabrication or electrical skills? This isn’t a simple DIY project.
[quote=”DJBLUEDIRTY” post=133981]You guys are missing the focus of my forum, doing this for security is just a bonus. I want to do a keyless push start ignition system, please either answer the question being asked. Other than that i don’t want to keep hearing about what i “could” or “should” do.[/quote]
Nick has already touched on the push button ignition dilemma. It’s going to be extremely difficult, and potentially extremely damaging to your vehicle. If you get somebody else to do it you’re most likely going to end up with a hack job, and very expensive bill, if you do it and you’re nothing but a backyard mechanic/weekend warrior you’re possibly going to do damage to your vehicle. Again, if anything goes wrong, this is YOUR problem.You need to ask yourself “is a push button ignition worth all of this trouble?”. For me the answer is easy, NO! If this is your daily driver it’s not worth it, the potential for either a large repair bill, and potentially bricked vehicle is too high.
Just forget about it, I can guarantee that you will be unhappy with the results.
[quote=”rideidaho” post=133808]I ran across this on Ted Talks and think that there is some validity to his point as it relates to compensation. I like flat rate for straight parts replacement operations but hate it for diagnostics that require creative thinking. Watch it and tell me what you think.
http://www.ted.com/talks/dan_pink_on_motivation#t-74339%5B/quote%5D
I feel as if this Ted Talk was mostly aimed at business owners. For business owners the flat rate pay method makes perfect sense. If the employee is not productive, you don’t pay them much — if nobody in the shop can diagnose the problem, you bring in a field tech (though this is far more money). From a consumer standpoint it is not a very good thing. It also encourages potentially hazardous shortcuts for both employee and customer. Though, I’m slowly starting to see things change.Flate Rate has ran many good techs out of the field, or perhaps they decided to become field techs, A and P techs, etc. The dealerships are having a hard time keeping employees, and getting quality employees to replace those that are leaving. More people are deciding against a career as a technician, and I sense that soon there is going to be a severe labor shortage.
[quote=”Chevyman21″ post=133664][quote=”barneyb” post=133662]I’m going to go find PithyRadish and give him some karma. :)[/quote] I actually just gave him a point 10 mins ago. I don’t know how he went from positive to negative so fast. Someone must be upset with a few of us. My problem with it is that people with negative Karma tend to get banned…which makes sense when they have “earned” that Neg Karma…but it seems like the system is quite easy to abuse if one has a grudge. Pilthy has been a good member since he joined, I see no reason why he got “De-Karmad”[/quote]
Must’ve been the Prius and Toyota threads 😉 By the way, thanks for helping my negative karma guys, I really would hate to get banned or something of that nature.[quote=”TokyoDrift99″ post=133511]Yes it’s my first Subaru and probably my last. I also forgot that I needed to reseal the power steering pump because it leaked bad. I’m pretty sure it sat before I bought it. I know I can’t judge a who line of cars but this car seriously pisses me off. You have to admit that’s a lot of problems for 3k miles of driving. My brother has one and it’s been ok but not perfect. Toyota also have a cult following like no other. Ever seen a Scotty Kilmer vid? If somebody asks him what’s a good car he always says get a toyota end of story, everything else is junk. He constantly bashes other brands, such as anything luxury and GM. I digress, Subaru has left a bad taste in my mouth and idk if I’ll ever go back. I plan on buying a 70s or 80s American truck soon and be done with it. Yeah it’ll likely be a POS, but at least it’ll have character lol.[/quote]
You bought a used car that is 16 years old in an environment that is notoriously tough on vehicles. When you buy a used vehicle there is always the risk that you are buying a car that was kept in poor repair, and not maintained properly. If the vehicle sat for a long time that could also lead to some big problems. I’m not surprised at all that you have been needing to make these repairs on your car. This is a common story that I’ve heard from people that I knew.Ultimately everyone has their own vehicle preference, however if you’re looking for a car that won’t give you any troubles I would suggest staying away from a 70s, or 80s truck. You complain about your Subaru, just wait until you get your hands on one of those puppies. If you’re buying one just for basic A to B transportation and you have no plans of wrenching on your own car I would strongly suggest you stay away, especially since you live in an area that will likely cause rust problems.
If you just want a project car, go ahead and buy it, but be warned if you’re going to use these things for daily drivers unless you spend good money on one in good condition. Also any American Truck from this era will most likely be using carbs. Learning them can be a fun experience, but it can also be an agonising experience — especially if you live in a cold climate. Be prepared to learn how to adjust them, and tune em’.
[quote=”TokyoDrift99″ post=133505]Hey everyone, just wondering if anybody else thinks subaru is garbage? I live in Vermont, and we pretty much have a 5 month winter so everyone has a subaru. It’s called “the unofficial state car of Vermont” on Subaru adverts. Seriously this place is crawling with Subarus, but I’m not quite sure why. Subaru’s fan base is pretty much a cult following, everyone thinks they’re the best and nothing even compares. The awd is actually amazing in the snow; I bought a 1999 legacy outback 2.5dohc 5 speed and you can dump the clutch at 4k in a icy road and it takes right off. There’s a good amount of wheel spin but using sane driving habits these kick ass in the snow. I’ve had the car 5 months and it has been a flying POS. It’s been one thing after another, all the normal Subaru stuff was done At 104k when I bought it (Heag gaskets, water pump, timing belt, etc.) on the drive home when I bought it it had horrible overheating issues, so I replaced the thermostat and it’s fine. It needed a wheel bearing a few weeks later. There’s electrical problems, the alternator failed and left me stranded a week later. There was some seal in the engine that caused the thing to leak oil like a seive (whole front end of the car was literally dripping with oil) and I had the mechanic replace that seal and the brand new clutch that was ruined by the oil spray to the tune of $600, because the motor had to be pulled to replace a $20 seal; and I didn’t have time to yank the engine. The shift linkage rattles like crazy, and the rust is starting to eat this car alive, 1/3 of the passenger rocker is gone, seriously there’s nothing but a hole. There is a LOUD exhaust leak I need to fix, and the car gets about 16mpg. I figure that’s from the exhaust leak throwing the O2 readings off. The dealer replaced brakes on 4 wheels but a caliper seized up front so I had to replace front rotors, pads, and passenger caliper. It uses half a quart every 500 mi or so, so I’m gonna replace the PCV and go from there. It’s slow as hell, and the A/C doesn’t work. I recharged it but it needs new o rings somewhere. There’s other stuff I’m forgetting for sure. Subaru cranks out junk, and doesn’t stand behind it because their cult members are there to buy/lease a new one every 3 years. I mean come on now, hg’s at 100k? Even the new ones have piston slap issues. Anybody else have a Subaru that is/was a miserable POS?[/quote]
Is this your ONLY Subaru that you’ve ever had? Judging a whole line of cars from just one vehicle isn’t fair to the manufacturer, especially a car that is close to 16 years old, in a harsh environment for vehicles. Do you know how the car was taken care of before you bought it? Did it receive all of its regular maintenance over the lifespan of the vehicle. I’ve seen Toyota’s that are known for being “bullet proof” fail at low mileages. No car manufacturer is immune to issues, especially if they are around 16 years old in an environment known for snow, and most likely salt.Head gaskets are a known pattern ware item with Subaru’s, every manufacturer has pattern ware items even Toyota’s, and Honda’s. My experience with Subaru’s has been pretty good, my family has always purchased them and they’ve all held up very well. My dad still has a Subaru from 1989 that has seen quite a few hard miles.
Are Subaru’s as reliable as their cult says they are? No. They have certain quirks, and the parts prices are very expensive. Are they good vehicles? That depends on who you are, and what you like, but I would say yes. I think overall they are good vehicles, and have decent reliability.
[quote=”Jlfitzgerald01″ post=133326]I want to become a master tech. I don’t know if I should go to school or just watch the tech who does side work for a living. If I go to school I will owe about 15,000 dollars. What have you guys who are techs have done? How’d you get started? I know very little about cars what should my first move be? I Really want to learn. Some general advice would be appreciated. I should probably share that I’m not in it for the money. I wanted to be an electrical engineer but auto technician appeals to me more. Thanks guys.[/quote]
I would do more research on the trade first, that is how I would start. This is a brutal field, I only work as a lowly lube tech in a Toyota Dealership, but I see a lot of worn out, sometimes bitter individuals. I’m constantly told to get out of the field by my older coworkers. This is not trade that many people are capable of stomaching. I see a lot of my younger co-workers looking for a way to get out. The work you do will be thankless, and the management will constantly be looking for a way to give you a smaller paycheck.There are a lot of politics in this field, and the pay is an unorthodox method called flat rate. Look flate rate up online, and you’ll learn a little bit about it. Another thing you need to consider is tool prices. A few guys at my job claim that they have at least 50k invested in tools, there is one guy here that I’ve heard claim he has around 100k worth of tools and I don’t doubt him one bit.
If you still decide to go into this field I would recommend going through a manufacturer specific schooling program. I’m in one and I get to work in the field and go to school. You can learn yourself but I wouldn’t recommend it, there is at least one guy on this form that taught himself. I know one guy in my dealership who moved from car detailer into repair, but it took him a long time to do that. He also is only given very basic repairs such as brakes, flushes, trim, etc. Most of the people in my dealership either came from other dealerships or from a tech school. With the modern systems, and sophistication of those systems I would go to a good tech school, especially if you have no experience wrenching.
[quote=”Bluesnut” post=133210]That co-worker is a disgusting POS and I have to suspect that the co-worker may have enhanced anything they said to the boss by piling on some lies. Maybe this co-worker had heard some good things about you and felt threatened. In a shop setting there’s a lot of politics and egos involved.
Financial aid for school? So what; that’s none of the co-worker’s dxxxxx business unless he’s the one having to pay it back. Moron.
On the positive side it sounds like you’re qualified and could find another job easily. I’ve gotten the axe few times and through no fault of my own. When some BS is being piled on and management gets called out on it their options are to admit it and fix the problem or shoot the messenger. Shooting the messenger is generally the easiest way out…….[/quote]
From what I’ve seen my manager always seems to side with the person with more experience, or the person that has a noted skillset that is rare. From what I’ve seen some of the older timers at my work also seem to look down at the people that went to trade school in general, especially if they are newer. Is that common in the rest of the field?