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I have a 2000 4Runner that had a hard pedal, in which I cleaned and GREASED the front caliper’s sliding parts. It feels normal now. Read your manual on checking the Brake Booster, and make sure there is no air in your lines. Hope this helps.
I have a 2000 4Runner that had a hard pedal, in which I cleaned and GREASED the front caliper’s sliding parts. It feels normal now. Read your manual on checking the Brake Booster, and make sure there is no air in your lines. Hope this helps.
Try removing fuse or relay to fuel pump, and attempt to start the car while voltmeter attached to battery. Make sure voltage doesn’t drop to 9 volts if it does…bad battery. Also, Hook up voltmeter from + terminal of Batt following that cable to the starter, and connect the other lead to that. Start engine and read meter to make sure Voltage Drop not more than .5 volts.http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=ry68G0C2Fyc
Try removing fuse or relay to fuel pump, and attempt to start the car while voltmeter attached to battery. Make sure voltage doesn’t drop to 9 volts if it does…bad battery. Also, Hook up voltmeter from + terminal of Batt following that cable to the starter, and connect the other lead to that. Start engine and read meter to make sure Voltage Drop not more than .5 volts.http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=ry68G0C2Fyc
I replaced the timing belt on my 08 Pilot, and performed the Idle Learn test only. Car runs the same as before. I did not perform the Crank Pattern Clear or Crank Pattern Learn tests. banana:
I replaced the timing belt on my 08 Pilot, and performed the Idle Learn test only. Car runs the same as before. I did not perform the Crank Pattern Clear or Crank Pattern Learn tests. banana:
I removed the drive belt, and discovered the large attaching bolt to the bottom pulley, (pictured above), was loose! I remember torquing that bolt too. Well I put the old tensioner back on with Locktite. It doesn’t bounch anymore ether…rides solid. banana:
I removed the drive belt, and discovered the large attaching bolt to the bottom pulley, (pictured above), was loose! I remember torquing that bolt too. Well I put the old tensioner back on with Locktite. It doesn’t bounch anymore ether…rides solid. banana:
I appreciate your help College Man! My model doesn’t have the hood sensor. No I haven’t changed any locks or actuators.
I appreciate your help College Man! My model doesn’t have the hood sensor. No I haven’t changed any locks or actuators.
I isolated the problem between the wiring and Key-less Receiver Unit. A short in the wiring is possible, but this auto arming issue occurs only when I arm/disarm the security system, with the key transmitter, and all doors closed; however, when I arm/disarm the system then open/close a door, it does not act up. I am focusing on the Key-less Receiver because I sense this trouble is following computer logic rather than a random short. Remember I cleaned the key’s transmitter and checked the battery. What do you think?
I isolated the problem between the wiring and Key-less Receiver Unit. A short in the wiring is possible, but this auto arming issue occurs only when I arm/disarm the security system, with the key transmitter, and all doors closed; however, when I arm/disarm the system then open/close a door, it does not act up. I am focusing on the Key-less Receiver because I sense this trouble is following computer logic rather than a random short. Remember I cleaned the key’s transmitter and checked the battery. What do you think?