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[quote=”DaFirnz” post=117537]Now there’s probably at least 3 wires going to the EGR, a 12v a 5v signal and a ground. with some creative jumper wiring you can use the 12v and ground to fully open the valve. You can do it first as a bench test out of the car then on the car. Opening the EGR at idle should stall the car. If the car doesn’t stall, assuming the bench test was successful, there’s something stopping the flow of the EGR.[/quote]
Wow, that’s genius. Thank you!
[quote=”DaFirnz” post=117537]Now there’s probably at least 3 wires going to the EGR, a 12v a 5v signal and a ground. with some creative jumper wiring you can use the 12v and ground to fully open the valve. You can do it first as a bench test out of the car then on the car. Opening the EGR at idle should stall the car. If the car doesn’t stall, assuming the bench test was successful, there’s something stopping the flow of the EGR.[/quote]
Wow, that’s genius. Thank you!
I’m sorry, I guess I didn’t realize that. I am working on a 2004 Honda accord 4cyl. And I have no fancy scan tools that can do something like that.
I’m sorry, I guess I didn’t realize that. I am working on a 2004 Honda accord 4cyl. And I have no fancy scan tools that can do something like that.
Eric put up a video about stalling problems. Maybe it can be a help. Something about the ignition switch?
Eric put up a video about stalling problems. Maybe it can be a help. Something about the ignition switch?
Is there a problem with just getting in there and trying different sizes till you find one that fits? (forgive my ignorance)
Is there a problem with just getting in there and trying different sizes till you find one that fits? (forgive my ignorance)
New update. Been going through etcg’s diagnostics on idle. Fuel pressure sensor, bleeding air out of the coolant system, stuff like that. I was driving it this morning and the check engine light came on. It’s now hesitating. Haven’t checked the code, but last time it did this it was something about a vacuum leak. I’m thinking egr valve, but I never looked into before because the cel went off. Will check the code tomorrow and post results. I don’t know if the egr valve could cause my issues….? Anyway, thanks for all the help!
New update. Been going through etcg’s diagnostics on idle. Fuel pressure sensor, bleeding air out of the coolant system, stuff like that. I was driving it this morning and the check engine light came on. It’s now hesitating. Haven’t checked the code, but last time it did this it was something about a vacuum leak. I’m thinking egr valve, but I never looked into before because the cel went off. Will check the code tomorrow and post results. I don’t know if the egr valve could cause my issues….? Anyway, thanks for all the help!
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=113021]I’m guessing that someone has attempted to adjust the idle with the screw on the throttle body. This is wrong. The engine will not be able to maintain the correct idle if this screw is misadjusted. I recommend you start by addressing the idle to see if you can make that better first and then turn your attention to the AC. Who knows, it could get solved just by fixing the idle issue. I’ve written extensively on Honda idle issues here. I suggest you read through it and see if that can help you with your idle issue.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-idle-problems
Keep us posted.[/quote]
Oh, I had no idea that was even a thing. I’ll check it out. Thank you. And I will certainly keep you posted. Does it help to say the vibrations stop when I go above 1000 rpms? Almost instantly actually.
EDIT: So, I just looked into it, and my accord doesn’t have an adjustment screw on the throttle body. Maybe I’m missing it and all my sources are just wrong? I’m not sure. But I don’t see it and neither does anyone else.
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=113021]I’m guessing that someone has attempted to adjust the idle with the screw on the throttle body. This is wrong. The engine will not be able to maintain the correct idle if this screw is misadjusted. I recommend you start by addressing the idle to see if you can make that better first and then turn your attention to the AC. Who knows, it could get solved just by fixing the idle issue. I’ve written extensively on Honda idle issues here. I suggest you read through it and see if that can help you with your idle issue.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-idle-problems
Keep us posted.[/quote]
Oh, I had no idea that was even a thing. I’ll check it out. Thank you. And I will certainly keep you posted. Does it help to say the vibrations stop when I go above 1000 rpms? Almost instantly actually.
EDIT: So, I just looked into it, and my accord doesn’t have an adjustment screw on the throttle body. Maybe I’m missing it and all my sources are just wrong? I’m not sure. But I don’t see it and neither does anyone else.
After another check when the vehicle was warm. At Park with no a/c it is at about 900. With a/c in Park it doesn’t move too much. Then in drive with no a/c it’s about 700. Then with I turn on the a/c it drops to about 500 then goes up to 800. Sorry about the confusion. I should have thought about a cold start. And it is a 2004