Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
I apologise for the long delay in my reply, but i’ve been getting things done to the car and haven’t had a chance to look at the temps yet. I remember looking at ETCG’s video on how to check if i have a clogged exhaust by checking vacuum at idle and then under load. The number’s ive gotten are around 22 hg and it climbs a little bit under acceleration (got these numbers from the scanner not an actual vacuum port). I will post the temps as soon as i get a chance, thanks for all the help!
Ok thanks, I will look into that once I get some free time. The obd scanner also provides me the temp of the cat, showing that (from a cold start and warming up, not driving around at operating temperature) it was about 560 degrees Celsius and still climbing, according to etcg video on the cat it should be between 650-870 Celsius, does that sound like sufficient temperatures?
lol they definitely come in handy :p, anyways I have developed another problem.. The parking brake won’t hold! I adjusted the wheel out as far as it will go (to the point where i couldn’t spin the wheels freely) then backed it off a smidge. Now the pedal does have resistance (it honestly feels about the same before this endeavor) but now it just doesn’t hold even on the slightest incline. I have checked to make sure everything is connected and everything checks out. I doubt it could be from that chunk missing from the shoe, but I don’t see anything else wrong.
Ok well here’s where I got today, thank you guys so much for the help! I got it off, got myself a BFH and hammered it off, turns out I didn’t break the pins I just bent one (thank God it can be slid out without having to remove the whole assembly). The parking brake shoes were so stuck that I actually took a chunk off of one of the shoes. I figured it’s not a big deal since it’s only parking brake but I’ll see how it works. I’ll order new pins tomorrow and I’ll replace it. But everything so far looks good
I’ve sprayed it with penetrating oil and I let it sit for 3 hours. I then used the bolts to push it off and tried hammering the hat but nothing is changing. I can see that it’s caught on a lip so is hammering it off from the back (where the caliper cut out from the backing plate) is?
But now I’m confused, if this mechanism is only used for parking (not during braking) how can it build up a rim? I can understand drum brakes because that mechanism is used while braking, but for something that’s only used while stationary I don’t believe there can be a rim. Would that be correct? So then my guess now is that (hopefully!) It’s just stuck on and some love taps will set it free
My guess is that there is a ridge mainly because I had never removed the rear rotors before (but now every time I service the rear brakes I’ll remember this and I’ll take it off and clean it up). My plan for today is to spray it with penetrating oil now and let it soak for a few hours while I go look for parts. So should I NOT hammer it from the back to knock it off? I already have new rotors to replace as well as pads. I’ll try hammering it on the hat to see if its just stuck on and hopefully it breaks free but if it’s stuck on the ridge I guess the only way is to hammer it off from the back. The only problem with that is when I used the threaded holes to push it off I basically had the bolt fully threaded in and it kept pulling the parking brakes off with it so my fear is if I hammer it from the back while pushing it off it might pull off everything (since there is no longer a retainer pin). I don’t see a way to disconnect the cable from the backing plate though, it looks like it’s ran all the way through. Thank you guys so much for the help, I’ll keep you guys posted on what happens.
Ok well how would I know if it’s over adjusted? like should i completely loosen the nut? I’ve tried hammering and i’ve tried the threading thing but all it does is pull the shoes out with the rotor. That’s how I broke the pin that holds it to the backing plate since it wouldn’t let go. I’ll spray it with penetrating oil first thing in the morning and once i get back i’ll hammer away on the hat of the rotor.
I don’t have a vice in my garage but I know a few people with a vice, as far as taking off the knuckle how would that help my situation? I’d rather not have to do that but if that’s all I can do then i’ll get cracking I guess. As far as checking the parking brake from the inside of the vehicle how would I go about doing that? it is a pedal not a lever. Ill try the penetrating oil but I was afraid it would collect all the dust and it would gum it up.
Glad to hear you were successful! Have you managed to solve the soft pedal problem? I’m having a similar issue but in my case I’ve bled the system twice and my pedal is still soft, I’m interested to hear what the problem is in your case and maybe I’m having the same one. If you say the bleeder valve had broken off wouldn’t that be the problem right there?
If the misfire is there primarily at idle then try cleaning the throttle body and the idle air controller. I had a misfire on my van that would go away when I pressed the gas peddle a little. I solved it by opening the throttle body plate and spraying some cleaner, letting it sit for a few minutes then wiping it dry (repeat a few times but not enough to flood the engine) the cleaner also made its way into the IAC ports. Make sure you allow everything to dry before starting it up. Best of luck.
This is exactly why I avoid taking my cars to the dealerships, I hate dealing with the service advisers. The parts people at my local Toyota dealership are very nice however. I had one bad experience at the dealership (The vehicle had to go there or else I would have done it my self), my mom was driving our Toyota Venza when the check engine light along with a few other lights came on so she panicked. I was not around so I told her to take it to the dealership (it’s very close to her work place). They scanned it free of charge and diagnosed it to be an oxygen sensor (sensor 2 bank 1 i believe) and reset the code, they said it was normal for those venzas to do that but if it comes back on again bring it in. Ok i was happy at the fact that they did it for free and withing a reasonable time. Came back on a few days later, so i took it myself and the service adviser was telling me i would have to pay a $100 diagnostic fee, i said they already scanned the code two days ago so they already know what the code is, they don’t need to diagnose anything. Even to that it won’t take long to plug in the scanner. He proceeds to tell me that the code tells the techs what is bad but not where to look, i said if the code points to the specific oxygen sensor, would you go looking in the oil pan for it? He does not reply but continues to insist that I would need to pay the $100 diagnostic fee. I asked to speak to the manager and after half an hour of talking I got the oxygen sensor replaced at a discount. Funny story is i also got a job from that, but I quit after a week because i hated the managers and advisers there. Anyways, that is why i really appreciate what Eric does to help people like me out.
well, i’ve done as much as i could to narrow it down to just the tie rods. the vehicle needs an alignment anyways so i think ill take the outer tie rod off next weekend to see if the inner tie rod flops around a lot and has play. I have tried everything in the video you linked but nothing has seemed to be able to reproduce the sound. Also, if i only jack one side of the car up, i won’t be able to wiggle the steering wheel no?
How many watts RMS are you feeding the sub’s? I’m thinking of going the two 12s route or even two 10s to save some space.