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New update!!! 1999 Acura TL 197Kmiles. Starting problem.
I cleaned the EGR port per the ETCG video. The port was all clogged up with hard carbon, what a mess!!! No dealer installed sleeve like the video.
I cleaned the idle control valve. It was a mess.
Replaced the original spark plugs, yes original confirmed by NGK.
Replaced the main relay with OE part, it had an after market one installed.
Replaced the battery. I was jumping the car to try to start it anyway. Free replacement from Autozone I have other cars that use the same battery and that one was 4 years old lol.
I cleaned the throttle body really well.
I replaced all of the original gaskets I removed with OE replacements, only $27.00 including the plenum.
The results: The car fired after about five cycles of the ignition. It idled around 1200 rpm initially before settling to around 750 rpm. The idle is smooth and consistent.
After warm up it starts easily. If I let it cool down it is harder to start. I let it cool down completely and cycled the ignition/fuel pump three times before trying to start and it started easily???
The car runs great!!! Smooth with plenty power no misses, no sign of anything once warm and running.
I was throwing a P1607 before all of the changes and after over an hour of running and driving, no new codes. I’m hopeful the P1607 will stay away.
I purchased a used fuel pump on ebay for $35.00 including shipping. I figure it is an easy swap and will take the fuel pump out of the equation.
I also had a problem with the power steering pump. It was making a ton of noise and leaking fluid from the reservoir cap. It was getting air in the system and I replaced an o-ring after watching the video below. It works perfectly now. Nice cheap fix
I will keep you posted on the results of the used fuel pump.
Cheers!!!
New update!!! 1999 Acura TL 197Kmiles. Starting problem.
I cleaned the EGR port per the ETCG video. The port was all clogged up with hard carbon, what a mess!!! No dealer installed sleeve like the video.
I cleaned the idle control valve. It was a mess.
Replaced the original spark plugs, yes original confirmed by NGK.
Replaced the main relay with OE part, it had an after market one installed.
Replaced the battery. I was jumping the car to try to start it anyway. Free replacement from Autozone I have other cars that use the same battery and that one was 4 years old lol.
I cleaned the throttle body really well.
I replaced all of the original gaskets I removed with OE replacements, only $27.00 including the plenum.
The results: The car fired after about five cycles of the ignition. It idled around 1200 rpm initially before settling to around 750 rpm. The idle is smooth and consistent.
After warm up it starts easily. If I let it cool down it is harder to start. I let it cool down completely and cycled the ignition/fuel pump three times before trying to start and it started easily???
The car runs great!!! Smooth with plenty power no misses, no sign of anything once warm and running.
I was throwing a P1607 before all of the changes and after over an hour of running and driving, no new codes. I’m hopeful the P1607 will stay away.
I purchased a used fuel pump on ebay for $35.00 including shipping. I figure it is an easy swap and will take the fuel pump out of the equation.
I also had a problem with the power steering pump. It was making a ton of noise and leaking fluid from the reservoir cap. It was getting air in the system and I replaced an o-ring after watching the video below. It works perfectly now. Nice cheap fix
I will keep you posted on the results of the used fuel pump.
Cheers!!!
I pulled the intake plenum per the ETCG video. The carbon in the EGR port was hard and crusty, not like the video, but there is no way anything could bypass the carbon. Cleaned the carbon out of the intake manifold and pulled out the idle control valve. The ICV looked dirty and the gasket looked like it might be leaking.
I’m ordering a new intake gasket just to be sure it is sealing and a new ICV and gasket and will post the results after installation.
This car belongs to my son and I am trying to fix its problems as a X-mas present.
Cheers!!!
I pulled the intake plenum per the ETCG video. The carbon in the EGR port was hard and crusty, not like the video, but there is no way anything could bypass the carbon. Cleaned the carbon out of the intake manifold and pulled out the idle control valve. The ICV looked dirty and the gasket looked like it might be leaking.
I’m ordering a new intake gasket just to be sure it is sealing and a new ICV and gasket and will post the results after installation.
This car belongs to my son and I am trying to fix its problems as a X-mas present.
Cheers!!!
College man, here’s an update. Before I went out to purchase a used ECU I decided to put a new battery in the car because it was getting weak. After I put the battery in the car it started cranking faster and was trying to fire. It seems like the choke is not working, so I put a rag in the intake to slow down the air intake. The car fired but it struggled and after a few minutes it ran fine except for a rough idle. I will perform an EGR port cleaning and check the idle control valve next. The car does have 197k miles and the EGR port has not been cleaned in at least 80k miles. I’m not sure if this will help but it can’t hurt:) No codes so far.
Cheers!!!
College man, here’s an update. Before I went out to purchase a used ECU I decided to put a new battery in the car because it was getting weak. After I put the battery in the car it started cranking faster and was trying to fire. It seems like the choke is not working, so I put a rag in the intake to slow down the air intake. The car fired but it struggled and after a few minutes it ran fine except for a rough idle. I will perform an EGR port cleaning and check the idle control valve next. The car does have 197k miles and the EGR port has not been cleaned in at least 80k miles. I’m not sure if this will help but it can’t hurt:) No codes so far.
Cheers!!!
Now I’m getting a P1607 code.. Do I really have to replace the ECU?
Now I’m getting a P1607 code.. Do I really have to replace the ECU?
Okay, I’m not getting any sound from the fuel pump. What wire should I check for power to the pump? It is an intermittent problem, sometimes I hear the pump and sometimes not. I pulled the trunk apart and took off the access panel to the pump and I am now sure the pump is not functioning, at least not regularly. I have already replaced the main relay.
Thank you all for the suggestions.
Okay, I’m not getting any sound from the fuel pump. What wire should I check for power to the pump? It is an intermittent problem, sometimes I hear the pump and sometimes not. I pulled the trunk apart and took off the access panel to the pump and I am now sure the pump is not functioning, at least not regularly. I have already replaced the main relay.
Thank you all for the suggestions.
Okay, I pulled the plugs today just to check and see how they looked. They looked a bit tired and all smelled of gasoline. I replaced them with OE NGK’s and gave it another go. No change… I do smell unburned fuel when attempting to start the engine. The engine turns over and tries to ignite but just stumbles. Are there other fuses or relays other than the main relay I should be looking at? It appears to be flooding.
Thank you for any suggestions.
Okay, I pulled the plugs today just to check and see how they looked. They looked a bit tired and all smelled of gasoline. I replaced them with OE NGK’s and gave it another go. No change… I do smell unburned fuel when attempting to start the engine. The engine turns over and tries to ignite but just stumbles. Are there other fuses or relays other than the main relay I should be looking at? It appears to be flooding.
Thank you for any suggestions.
Thank you!!! It has coil over plug, has spark. I hear the fuel pump buzz when I turn the key, should it buzz every cycle of the ignition or only until pressurized? I did have the tensioner replaced when the new timing belt was installed. How do I check the fuel pressure on a 99 TL?
Thank you!!! It has coil over plug, has spark. I hear the fuel pump buzz when I turn the key, should it buzz every cycle of the ignition or only until pressurized? I did have the tensioner replaced when the new timing belt was installed. How do I check the fuel pressure on a 99 TL?
Thank you… I already went through all of those:(
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