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Outlook for more throttle body assemblies and cable assemblies for sale, then download the pics. Also, go to a junk yard and take video and pics of one, maybe even buy another. Ice done why you did before on a Bonneville, i got lucky and it all went back together, but I have no interest in tearing a spring assembly apart again. It reminds me of trying to fix a camera when I was 9. Springs flew out everywhere.
I did some searching on eBay for the throttle body for sale for your car, then I downloaded pics of it to this thread. I also found some basic drawings of it in the repair files from my libraries website. I will include more of them on the next reply. I hope these visual reminders will give you something to work with.
My instincts tell me that sound is a bad wheel bearing. It could also be something like a gear box or differential that is low on fluid.
I have a few thoughts on this. When you did all that cleaning, could some of the dirt fell loose deeper into the engine?
Did you clean the throttle body butterfly, aka throttle plate?
If the throttle body plate had a build up on the top or bottom, it will cause odd stalling.
Toyotas have a 3 part egr system. An eye valve, egr vacuum transducer and a vacuum switching valve. Double check all the electrical connections, but pay attention to the vacuum lines. If the rubber hoses are old, they
crack easily. If they are not removed, but moved or bumped during other repairs they can become cracked or break.
You should double check for any and all vacuum leaks about the engine.
If your particular engine is designed to run with a mass air flow sensor, you can clean it but be careful to use the specific kind of spray cleaner made for it. The wire in the middle of it is very thin and fragile.
Has the cam position sensor been unplugged? Double check that connection.
Some spray cleaners and foam cleaners can damage the exhaust system. Some can damage the oxygen sensors and damage the catalytic converter. The converter can be pressure tested at an exhaust specialist. Exhaust shops where I live do that for free. I can’t imagine it would have too high a cost if there is a charge where you are.
I mention the exhaust also just in case some dirt and grime passed through to that system and is causing blockage which would also cause issues as you describe them.
I hope this helps.I’ve not used Napa brake parts, but I have used Autozone and I refuse to use them again. If the backing plate of the brake pads had to be hammered into the caliper mount, they will grab and not slide back easily after you’ve released the brake pedal. Autozone pads backing plates look to be molded and require lots of filing to make them fit at all. I’ve bought ceramic pads from rockauto, the power stop brand, and had zero issues. Those pads slipped into the caliper mount smoothly and the backplate looks to be either die cut or laser cut. The Autozone pads look round and fat with few to no crisp lines all around the ends. I’m not sure how the Napa pads worked as you installed them, but if you had to force them into the caliper mount, that alone would explain your predicament.
Also, did you lube the caliper guide pins? How does the brake fluid look? Have you considered doing a complete brake fluid flush? Brake fluid absorbs atmospheric moisture all the time. The hard brake lines are plain steel and will rust from the inside out of the fluid becomes too contaminated with moisture. If brake fluid looks opaque, like strong coffee, that means its got rust particals rolling through that system that can cause blockages, the kind of which can keep a caliper or wheel cylinder pistons from moving in and out smoothly like they should.The fuel rail is very wide and flat on top, it looks like part of the lower intake, hit its not. The block I spoke of is on the end of the fuel rail nearest the distributor. The fuel pressure regulator is opposite of that. This partnis not available new from any vendor, so he had to go with a salvage part. I checked the flatness of the new part and the fuel rail before assembly, all good.
I was thinking this weekend when I go back, I will see if the distributor is loose, as in did the hold down clamp come loose, allowing it to turn when it got bumped in the process. I also noticed that the coil is a tiny bit loose in its bracket. The wires connecting to the ignition module are also held in via zip ties. I’m going to see if the distributor turns by hand, then play with that until its times right then secure it. I’m also considering looking much closer at the two molex connectors for the ignition module.
I’ve also triple checked the firing order, and it’s spot on with new plugs and wires.I just verified that this car does not have a back up camera at all, so the fuse was for the reverse light and it being out did indeed cause the nav system to stay off.
As discussed before, it ran perfectly before changing out the valve cover gaskets and it barely has 80k miles. It never failed to start and it never backfired before. Never.
I recently did a water pump on Mercedes 300 the 1988, while under it to open the radiator petcock, I noticed it had no sway bar at all. Brackets were there, but the bar was gone. I told the owner, he found one from a salvage yard and I installed it. He said he thought it was meant to handle poorly because it’s an older red car, but now he said it handles like a dream. Get the sway bar fixed. You will like the results.
I also want to mention, steel brake tubing is flexible, but it’s like a coat hanger. If you bend it too many times, it will crack and brake.
A trick I use to make nice bends, is to get a steel can, like a soup can, or similar. You can use the can a a form to push the brake tubing around to get smoother bends. It’s mild steel, not hardened, so it’s easier to bend than you might think. Otherwise, I just got the hang of bending it by hand with no tools that can themselves get in the way.
First of all, please do not ever use a compression fitting on a brake line. They are technically illegal in most areas, but they are known to fail under hard sudden panic stops. You will know it was wrong when you arrive at the scene of the accident.
This is the easiest to follow video I’ve seen so far. It’s the kind of thing that can really frustrate you until you get the hang of it.
What I’m saying is that you need to practice. I’ve never seen anyone get it right on the first attempt. Even seasoned techs sometimes mess up and have to start over.
Make sure the flare nuts are the correct thread pitch too, some are similar but different, that can trick you. See if the flare nut threads in relatively easy without the brake line, all by itself. If not, you know your senses have been tricked.
If your in eastern Iowa, I can give you a hand.I got sick of starting over and going through multiple premade lines also in the past, so I got a 20 foot reel of 3/16 brake line. I took my time practicing until I got the hang of it. Keep in mind that 3/16 line is the most common size used. If you were to buy a spool, or longer section of it, you will find use for the rest of it in time.
I don’t want to poopoo on the last poster’s ideas, but compression fittings in automobile brake lines isn’t about being technically correct, it’s about saving a life. Please don’t ever use that in a brake line.
Stuff like that is typically sold in a kit. You can search around for a shift lever repair kit. Dealerships have no issues helping you ad well. Give them a shot too.
Also, there is a chance the rotors can be warped, but there would be a pulsation while stopping. If that’s the case, new rotors and lube thoae caliper guide pins. Having a foot in the brake all the time overheats the rotors, causing them to warp, even when nearly new. Every car I’ve purchased from an elderly individual had warped rotors because older people are prone to riding the brake pedal with the left foot all the time.
