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I also think you have a coil issue. They are likely cracked inside. When it all gets warm, things expand and the crack is then a short for some or all cylinders. The crank sensor would keep it from running altogether, plus there would definitely be a code for it. I’m still thinking the coil or coils.
Does your car have an egr valve? It could have a carbon build up in the egr tube, this can cause a car to act like it overheated and has to cool off before it will start. There are vids online showing how to decarbonize using a spray bottle of water. The evap leak codes are likely from the gas cap. The rubber O ring on it can still look good but shrinks over time allowing gas to evaporate around it and throws a code. The cam sensor shouldn’t cause this, but the crank sensor would. If you know you need one, best to get it out of the way anyhow.
As previously mentioned, the caliper guide pins should be lubed with every brake job, but many shops don’t do that. Also, cheap brake pads can make a lot of noise. My last thought is that the hard line under the car chassis could be partially compressed or dented. Imagine the car runs over something and the brake line under it gets crushed or partially crushed. That will definetly cause your problem. Raise and secure the car safely, then just look at the whole steel line from front to back. It should be easy to see if any part of the brake line is not round and tube shaped.
I’ve owned plenty of 4 & 6 cylinder GM’s. I’ve had very similar issues but not always for the same reason. I will make a few points.
In the cold, things shrink, then swell with heat. The ignition coils are caped in a plastic shell but are encased in a resin core. If there is a crack in the coil, it will keep the coil wires from making contact when cold, but warmth and swelling will make contact again.
The crank and cam sensors are subject to the same temperature issues because they are encased in hard resin with a plastic cap just like the coils. A bad crank sensor can keep it from starting.
Have you done a noid light test to verify there is fuel being pumped by computer command? You can make a noid light BTW. If the noid does not flash then either the computer or the crank sensor has issues.
Using any variant of ethanol will draw moisture into the gas tank and reduce mileage greatly. I never use it for those and other good reasons.
I’ve heard lots of fluff about seafoam. I don’t trust it. Its thicker than it looks and can cause pushrods to get bent if used even slightly incorrectly. It happened to two people I know. Zmax is by far and wide a far superior product that can be used in the oil and gas without damaging it. Ive been using it for 20 years and seen the proof time and again of its value.
The coils you replaced, were they replaced with new ones? I know some of the cheaper new ones are made in Poland and other eastern block countries and not made well. Have you had the charging system checked? Slightly low voltage will allow it to crank and run, but poorly. Check all upper and lower connections for the battery cables.
One thing about Chryslers I’m not crazy about, is that most have the voltage regulator in n the PCM instead of the alternator or separate on the firewall. This means you likely need a new PCM. You can root out the fuseable links, but those would only keep selected circuits from working, not cause all the relays to go wonky. Also, the alternator has a diode set internally. Diodes are a one way path for current flow. The alternator naturally makes AC power then it gets sifted through the diodes converting it to DC. If those are damaged you could have AC voltage causing your issues as well. For a free test, remove the alternator and get it bench tested for free at an auto parts store. Good luck!
I have had very similar problems on various Nissans that I’ve repaired over the years. Keep this in mind – brake fluid is very hygroscopic. That means it draws in atmospheric moisture to the system all the time. This can cause the brake lines to rust from the inside out, and caliper pistons to have movement limited by rust scale in the caliper. Brake fluid that is new looks like water, very clear. If you can’t see light through it because its gone dark brown, that is liquid rust. This is why I flush my brake fluid every 1-2 years. The guide bolts that the caliper glides on are famous for loosing their lubricant layer. I always use high temp brake lube on those especially on Nissans. The guide pin bit is not related to this issue, but just an extra tip. I hope this helps you.
I wish, but no. The cup holder seems to block access to more fasteners, but I can’t get it out. I saw that video already but it glazes over needed details. That’s why I posted here actually.
Last update on this thread. It is fixed! The broken prong in the molex leading to the fuel pump was the issue. I put a jumper wire around the molex with heat shrink tubing and it cranked right up. Thanks for all the input guys!
Keep in mind that many chrysler products have the voltage regulator in the ECU, not the alternator. There is no way to successfully test if a charging problem is just the regulator from what I understand. I have owned a 200 caravan & a 2001 ram 1500 – they both had charging issues. Both times, I tried to change the alternator, then the battery, then the cables and they still would not charge. Changed the ECU – PROBLEM SOLVED! Good luck.
And another important update!
I looked at the connection on the frame rail leading to the pump. The connector that leads to the fuse box has a broken off prong. Should be 4, but only 3 are there for 4 wires and the broken off bit is on the plug leading to the pump. The owner is getting a new pigtail harness in the next few days, so I am hoping my next post will be a final post on this thread.
Update – the noid light flashes. I only tested one, but I assume they would all be the same. I removed, cleaned and reinstalled even the smallest of ground wires. The injectors are working but the fuel pump is not. I even jumped the 30 & 87 connections on the fuel pump relay, fuel pump won’t make a peep.
I have one thought though, the new pump came with a new connector with about 6 inches of wire lead. There were no instructions. I assumed since the plug was the same as the original, there was no need to change it. I’m about to crawl back under and test voltage at the pump connection on the frame if I can get to it. I’m trying not to have to drop the tank again.
Thanks for the tip. As mentioned in the Start of this thread, I swapped out all the relays. I’m thinking its noid light time. If they pulse, then I will think its a single wire giving me grief. I’m also going to try jumping,some connections as the guy in the video did. I did check the inirtia switch. I’ve worked on some Lincolns that had faulty inirtia switches, so I disconnected it the jumped the two wires which would indicate that the inirtia switch was bad, but this one is good.
Karl, you’ve shared some solid advice and I appreciate it. I ran across a video on yt two days ago, a guy with a v6 ranger had the exact same problem with most of the same steps taken. He found a wire leading to the power distribution box to the fuse for the fuel pump had a short. My local library is pretty good about having lots of online repair data on hand including wiring diagrams. I’m going there tomorrow to print those off and I’ll try to video the results to share. Thanks again!