Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
I think the block s iron. If a magnet sticks to it, it’s iron. Use more caution in the future obviously, but the block should be fine. Aluminum is much more delicate.
I would add that stop leak can completely and rapidly destroy an engine if there is a head gasket leak. It uses sodium silicate to bind with glycol to bunch up a leak. Sodium silicate is powdered glass. If that gets into the combustion chamber, it immediately grinds deep grooves into the cylinder walls. Within seconds. It makes grooves so bad that the engine can’t even be rebuilt.
Remember cash for clunkers? They had to destroy the engine and they did so by pouring sodium silicate into the oil resivior.The next logical step would be to replace the coil. There is a chance that it is hydrolocked, aka flooded too. The fuel pump primes every time you turn the key on. If there is too much fuel pressure, it can keep the pistons from moving at all too. If you get spark and it won’t crank, then remove the plugs for a few hours and let the excess fuel evaporate. Good luck.
There are a few simple ways to test the catalytic converter. Is there a rotting egg smell? Raise the car safely after its cooled off. Knock on the cat firmly, as in knocking on the door. Did you hear a rattling inside it? If so, the cat is definitely bad.
I wish you would have posted these questions before doing what you’ve done.
Never use a metal blade, they will easily gouge aluminum. NEVER ever use an abrasive wheel on any power tool, they remove material at an alarming rate. Do you have a very new metal ruler to act as a straight edge? Put the edge of it on the mating surfaces with a flashlight behind it. Are there now gaps that allow light through that should not? If so, go get a new manifold. Even a good used one. A machine shop may be able to resurface yours, just take it to them to inspect.
It can’t be the same for a diy as it is in a shop, and I understand the need to get it done and save money. Please don’t think I’m being a prick, I’m just cringing when I read what you wrote already.
My shop is closed, im retired. This is how I do mine at home.
If you don’t have access to a parts washer, then get a heavy leaf bag and some.paper towels. Roll the leaf bag down, lay the manifold bottoms up in it. Layer paper towels on the bottom of the manifold. Spray liberally with brake parts spray cleaner. Wrap up with the leaf bag carefully and quickly. Leave it a few hours. That spray cleaner evaporates rapidly. If you tied the bag off quickly enough, it should still be wet and have that awful stink to it when you open it again.
Eric has made videos on using a disc with plastic fingers on a drill to clean aluminum. That would be a fast way. A small plastic scraper, like the cheapest window ice scraper for $1 you can find is what you use to remove the majority of the old gasket. Green scotchbright pads are next. Use them with the understanding that it is not the pressure from your hand, but the time filled repetition that does the cleaning. If you press too hard, you can scrub off aluminum and make a very uneven surface area, that would be bad. Repetition is your friend here, not pressure.
That should remove the rest if your patient enough.
Again, if the mating surface is no longer flat with the straight edge, take it to a machine shop. They may be able to resurface it and maybe clean it more too. Keep in mind that typically charge by the hour, so do what you can first, then take it in.
Good luck sir.Your egr valve has a carbon build up. Remove it, clean it make.aure.the rod moves in and out easily, then check it for a vacuum leak. If it’s good.after all that, reinstall it. Make.sure the tube for it is also clear enough. Much newer civics have a weird chamber leading to the egr that is long and against the head, that sometimes has to be removed and cleaned, but not sure if your accord has that.
But seriously, it’s the egr valve. This was a common thing on cars from the 80’s and early 90’s. The symptoms were exactly the same as what you described.There are a few important topics I want to go over. When you installed the new master cylinder, did you bleed it before hooking it up?
Yes, there could be air in the abs module.If I were.in your shoes, ide say forget bleeding the brakes and replacing parts.
Do a full brake system fluid flush. Not bleeding, but flushing. There are.procedures to follow for this and they are easily found on yt.
Brake fluid is supposed to be clear, buy when it’s not transparent, that means it’s contaminated with moisture and it’s rusting the steel lines from the inside out. Because you changed the MC out a year ago, the resivior fluid will likely look good. It will cost you one whole quart of brake fluid and about two hours.
This is one of the most seriously overlooked things on a braking system.If the noise is present when not moving, then it’s not the brakes. Harbor freight sells automotive stethoscopes for less than $10. You can use the tube from an empty roll of paper towels in a pinch. Put your ear on the one end, and move the other end from one pulley wheel to the next, until you locate the sound. It’s likely a pulley wheel for the tensioner or idler pulley, or the alternator. Could be part of the timing belt system too, that has its own tensioner and pulley wheels. If it has a chain instead of a belt, then scratch that last tip.
Most Hondas I’ve done body work on have a radius arm that leads from the foot well area to the back edge of the lower arm. They are typically adjustable in case of a minor accident. If it doesn’t adjust enough, you may need some frame stretching done at a body shop. In fact, go to a good body shop for another estimate.
Most Hondas I’ve done body work on have a radius arm that leads from the foot well area to the back edge of the lower arm. They are typically adjustable in case of a minor accident. If it doesn’t adjust enough, you may need some frame stretching done at a body shop. In fact, go to a good body shop for another estimate.
Brake fluid is hygroscopic. That means it will draw in atmospheric moisture at any chance. Good brake fluid looks clear like water. As it absorbs atmospheric moisture, it will start to look like coffee. That means the inside if the steel brake lines along the chassis are rusting from the inside out. That color of coffee indicates liquid rust rolling through the brake lines, which can also cause wheel cylinders and calipers to be sticky and sometimes freeze in place. I do a full fluid flush on mine about every three years. If the fluid is looking like coffee or nearly like coffee, then flush it. If it’s clear or you can still see through it, then it’s fine.
The part you called a proportional valve is likely a T connection that splits off one steel brake line into two lines leading to each wheel.
The fastest test to pin the exact leak down accurately, is to clean that area off well with a can of brake spray cleaner. Use it to clean off the whole area well. Then let it dry for two minutes. It stinks horribly and burns like fire in the eyes, so be in a place with fresh air and definitely use eye protection.
Refil the resivior. Get in position at that corner, with the wheel off, then have another person gently push the brake pedal down firmly. You will see the leak. Car does not need to be running for this test.Your battery, as new as it is, could still be the problem. The brightness of the lights has little to do with correct voltage for starting. Have a free load test done on it. The voltage you register is not necessarily the same voltage when it cranks.
I don’t deal with BMW very often, but there are numerous models such as Ford that will not allow the engine to turn over at all if the voltage is a hair too weak.According to the manual, neither fuse box has a fuse for the alternator, that was done in older models.
I just got a call from the dealership, they say there is a code and communication error in the ecu, so they want $800 to install a new ecu.Any of you know if the ecu is something that can be dropped in, or does it require flashing?
It has been tested out of the car numerous times. I can only surmise that there is a short in the wire that triggers it to charge.
Either way, it’s back at the dealership now.It could be crying because it just realized it’s a caliber. I mean, I would.
Ok, seriously. If you have a harbor freight store around you, go get an automotive stethoscope. Under $10 and a good tool. Also, you can use the cardboard tube from a roll of paper towels to help narrow down the source of the sound. Is it only when the a/c is on? It’s likely to be a belt tensioner pulley wheel or an idler pulley wheel. Those have bearings that go bad and cause noise. They are also usually cheap, around $20 bucks each. Anything that spins could cause the sound. A weak belt tensioner can cause it too.