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Yes I have, thanks for asking. No external amp, just crappy chinesium steroid that claimed big power, but amps burnt out in seconds. I also had a dead short in the factory wiring for the front right door, so I ran new wire there. A better stereo has it working great and I’m getting ready to install a 4 channel amp when I get more time.
A number of fwd cars have spindles that taper away from the hub, leaving too little room to draw a new stud in. In many cases, using a grinder to grind off one part of the back of the new stud may allow it to slip into place around the taper if the spindle.
So new with a broken stud. Have you searched the recall list on your model to see if this may be covered?That’s a fair statement. I spent time looking at it today, it leaks oil with the engine off too, there are missing interior trim bits too.
I chose not to buy it. He’s scrapping it. It’s in Minnesota for cheap if any of you want it.Honda’s and Nissan’s alike are known for the caliper guide pin going dry and rusting into place.
Remove the bolts that hold the caliper bracket to the spindle, suspend it with a wire coat hanger or short bungy cord to the top coil of the struts. Remove the pads and place in a safe spot.
Go by new pins with rubber boots. Cut the boot off the rusted in pin, exposing it. Combine equal parts automatic transmission fluid and the paint thinner acetone, this makes a good penetrating fluid. Squirt that liberally on the area that the protective boot used to sit on. It’s even easier if you can detatch the brake hose and Doo all this away from the car. Let your penetrating fluid soak in overnight or at least a few hours, then see if it can be turned out. If the hex head has started to strip, the just go get another caliper and bracket, then bleed the system.
If you can get the pin out, take a round wire brush and scrub the inside if that hole out very well. Dry fit the new pin in and make sure it moves freely. If not, brush it out a little more. I use a wooden dowel a bit smaller than the new pin, cut a careful, straight slice down about 2 inches in, then use some 180 grit sandpaper paper and cut a 2 inch strip off, wind it around the dowel after sliding it down the middle of it, then if possible, use a drill to spin that in the hole to really clean it out.Turned out to be a recall issue. The rod bearings spun, engine self destructed. Recall covered a new short block.
Automatic transmission fluid has not just lube, but stuff that breaks down rust. Acetone from the paint thinner section has a low boing point. Mix them in equal amounts then squirt into or onto the area of that latch, generously. Let it soak over night. It should come loose the next day. Remember it is flammable, so be safe. This for me works better than any store bought lube.
The deed is done. Big problem I encountered, the doner car had the ebrake on and it sat so long that it rusted in place. I had to pound the disc off which ripped out the parking brake shoes. The stock ebrake cables do not mount to the new stuff. The doner car was a 2001 es300 Lexus with a v6, my car is a 4 cylinder 97 Camry. Very similar, but not quite the same. Nearly every major fastener for the subframe and the central mounts of the anti sway bar snapped off in the process. I can say that drill bits from Fastenal are way better for drilling thru steel than any brand if bits sold at all the chain stores.
For now, I left the ebrake cables loose on top the subframe until I get the coin to replace them. I’ll need the rear cables for the newer Lexus for sure. I also need fresh tires and an alignment.
This is all doable, especially if your car is not as Rusty as mine. The upgrade to the Lexus rear disc is very noticeable and welcome.Check fuses. If they are good and there is still no further pressure, change out the fuel pressure regulator.
Good points.
I did check all fuses both u see the hood and interior, they are all good. I also pulled out the connector for the steering wheel buttons and inspected all aspects of it, even plugged in a bunch of times hoping it would change something, but it didn’t.
Grrr.College man is spot on. I suspect the gas filler neck tube is rusted out. If that’s the case, the part is typically less than $100 and you could likely install it yourself.
No indication light on the dash, it doesn’t work a d the manual is no help. I wonder if it’s labeled as something obscure?