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Water out of the tailpipe is normal because it is a byproduct of the combustion cycle. It usually condenses in your mufflers and there are weepholes on them to let water drip out, however if they are plugged up, water will drip out of the tailpipe instead.
Ohhh I see what you mean now. I was thinking that you would fill the transmission up until it drips out of the tube you’re filling in, but you mean to keep both of them open and fill it through the return line until it drips out of the fill plug? If so, that would be perfectly fine, although a lot more would probably drip out because the lines would be full of fluid when it starts dripping out of the fill plug.
Ohhh I see what you mean now. I was thinking that you would fill the transmission up until it drips out of the tube you’re filling in, but you mean to keep both of them open and fill it through the return line until it drips out of the fill plug? If so, that would be perfectly fine, although a lot more would probably drip out because the lines would be full of fluid when it starts dripping out of the fill plug.
You could, but then you wouldn’t know the correct amount to put in it. The 4Runner should be the exact same transmission and engine.
You could, but then you wouldn’t know the correct amount to put in it. The 4Runner should be the exact same transmission and engine.
Try WD-40’ing a couple of bushings that you can see and test to see if it was one of those. If it is, you would have to take them out and properly grease them as WD-40 is only a temporary fix from what I’ve seen. Last time this happened, it was on a front sway bar bushing, but I don’t think your van has that.
Try WD-40’ing a couple of bushings that you can see and test to see if it was one of those. If it is, you would have to take them out and properly grease them as WD-40 is only a temporary fix from what I’ve seen. Last time this happened, it was on a front sway bar bushing, but I don’t think your van has that.
To me, its just a cash grab, and may cause more harm than good if overused because your engine would have to burn the “cleaners” and it usually forms deposits on your spark plugs or valves, causing the performance to slowly degrade.
To me, its just a cash grab, and may cause more harm than good if overused because your engine would have to burn the “cleaners” and it usually forms deposits on your spark plugs or valves, causing the performance to slowly degrade.
Try resetting the ECU by unplugging the negative terminal of the battery for a while then plugging it back in. If that doesn’t work, check out the idle air control butterfly underneath the throttle body and see if it is seized up or something.
Try resetting the ECU by unplugging the negative terminal of the battery for a while then plugging it back in. If that doesn’t work, check out the idle air control butterfly underneath the throttle body and see if it is seized up or something.
That light you are seeing is probably the battery light, which tells you that your alternator isn’t working properly, however due to the low RPMs, it is not able to produce enough voltage to satisfy the sensor for just a split second and causes that light to flash. Try cleaning the Idle air control motor as it might be sticking causing the drop in RPMs.
That light you are seeing is probably the battery light, which tells you that your alternator isn’t working properly, however due to the low RPMs, it is not able to produce enough voltage to satisfy the sensor for just a split second and causes that light to flash. Try cleaning the Idle air control motor as it might be sticking causing the drop in RPMs.
If you’re all out of options, the very last choice would be to turn in the throttle idle adjustment screw to open up the throttle just a little bit to allow the engine to idle with the IAC motor unplugged (which it should be able to). Whats happening is that when you release the gas pedal to shift, the IAC kicks in and closes to reduce RPMs, and when you press in the clutch, the engine speed drastically decreases and kills the engine. You would be able to solve this problem by really lightly pressing on the gas pedal when you put in the clutch so there would be sufficient airflow to keep it running, however the idle adjustment screw is a very last resort, and should only be turned a LITTLE bit at a time. You do not want your engine to idle too high.
If you’re all out of options, the very last choice would be to turn in the throttle idle adjustment screw to open up the throttle just a little bit to allow the engine to idle with the IAC motor unplugged (which it should be able to). Whats happening is that when you release the gas pedal to shift, the IAC kicks in and closes to reduce RPMs, and when you press in the clutch, the engine speed drastically decreases and kills the engine. You would be able to solve this problem by really lightly pressing on the gas pedal when you put in the clutch so there would be sufficient airflow to keep it running, however the idle adjustment screw is a very last resort, and should only be turned a LITTLE bit at a time. You do not want your engine to idle too high.