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The convention is to do the furthest brake from the master cylinder first then shorter and shorter, so it should be RR, LR, RF, LF.
The convention is to do the furthest brake from the master cylinder first then shorter and shorter, so it should be RR, LR, RF, LF.
Yes it sounds like air in the system. Try slamming on the brakes when going at speed (with no cars around) to force your caliper to set in the right spot, then bleed again after you let the vehicle sit for a couple hours to let any small air bubbles rise.
Yes it sounds like air in the system. Try slamming on the brakes when going at speed (with no cars around) to force your caliper to set in the right spot, then bleed again after you let the vehicle sit for a couple hours to let any small air bubbles rise.
You can easily see your torque converter lock up when it seems like there is an “extra” gear in your transmissions where your rpm drops a bit due to it locking up. The torque converter should also get out of lockup to raise RPMs and increase torque by using the torque multiplier when you give it enough gas though.
I have also seen torque converters lockup in every gear (depending on what speed you are at and your current throttle positions) in newer vehicles. Which essentially makes the transmission an automated manual transmission in the engine->transmission connection, however the gears would still be clutch activated.
You can easily see your torque converter lock up when it seems like there is an “extra” gear in your transmissions where your rpm drops a bit due to it locking up. The torque converter should also get out of lockup to raise RPMs and increase torque by using the torque multiplier when you give it enough gas though.
I have also seen torque converters lockup in every gear (depending on what speed you are at and your current throttle positions) in newer vehicles. Which essentially makes the transmission an automated manual transmission in the engine->transmission connection, however the gears would still be clutch activated.
What I also suggest is to squeeze the upper radiator hose (wear some gloves, they get hot) after the engine has warmed up and is idling to force the air in the system out by giving bursts of pressure. Also check to see if you have some bleed screws in the coolant lines somewhere. (The Chevy 3800 v6 in your video has them)
What I also suggest is to squeeze the upper radiator hose (wear some gloves, they get hot) after the engine has warmed up and is idling to force the air in the system out by giving bursts of pressure. Also check to see if you have some bleed screws in the coolant lines somewhere. (The Chevy 3800 v6 in your video has them)
I believe that crashdebug is only going to fill through the tranny cooler return line (like a dipstick tube) but still keep the fill plug open to check and the fluid, once topped off will still drain out through there. A ton easier than using a pump, and should work perfectly fine.
I believe that crashdebug is only going to fill through the tranny cooler return line (like a dipstick tube) but still keep the fill plug open to check and the fluid, once topped off will still drain out through there. A ton easier than using a pump, and should work perfectly fine.
Did you make sure to completely purge the air out of the cooling system? I recently had dealt with a problem similar to this, however coolant was leaking, just out of the heater core and took a while to drip out of the weep hole for the condenser. Just something else to check.
Did you make sure to completely purge the air out of the cooling system? I recently had dealt with a problem similar to this, however coolant was leaking, just out of the heater core and took a while to drip out of the weep hole for the condenser. Just something else to check.
No, because fluid isn’t exchanged inside the reservoir, only pushed out through the lines to the piston.
No, because fluid isn’t exchanged inside the reservoir, only pushed out through the lines to the piston.