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On my mom’s accord with no air filter installed the responsiveness from 4 to 5k is noticeably better. I wouldn’t recommend running with no air filter but that’s just an example of where you can feel more power with more flow.
On my mom’s accord with no air filter installed the responsiveness from 4 to 5k is noticeably better. I wouldn’t recommend running with no air filter but that’s just an example of where you can feel more power with more flow.
I’ve seen this happen when the idle is low. However I think it’s still related to the rubber mounts, just the higher revs make the vibrations not so harsh.
If I’m doing wheel related work, I look for the little tabs that stick down that match with the slot in the scissor jack.
I had to go through 3 kits before I found one that worked. First of all, if you have an OHC (over head cam) engine, make sure you get a kit that allows you to put a 3/8 square drive directly in the tapping tool. Many kits require you to slip a socket over the top and in my case it was too big to slide down the plug tubes.
Second, coat the tapping tool with grease or vaseline. Slather it on like crazy… Why? That will let the cuttings from the hole tap get caught in the slime on the flute marks cut in the tool instead of dropping down in the engine.
Make sure you tap down far enough. I was too worried about tapping too far and I only ended up tapping 1/2 way, now my plug sits too high. So don’t do that.
If you have access to compressed air, blow it down the hole to release any shavings that are there.
The kit I used had several sleeves rather than coils (it wasn’t helicoil brand). The sleeves had a crosshatched pattern to grip in. You have to coat the sleeve with high temp RTV that’s O2 sensor safe, thread it on the plug and take it down and then pull the plug.
Then you have a tool that slides down to flatten the top of the insert so the plug will be flush with the head.
If this was a result of blowing a plug rather than stripping a hole, make sure you inspect your coil if you have a coil on plug setup.
If you see any cracks or holes, fill them up with high temp RTV or epoxy. Otherwise you may get sparks jumping from the inside of the coil to your engine causing misfires.
Anyway, that’s my experience, I’ve done it once.
That’s awesome! I didn’t ever see that!
Looks pretty much the same except there is no longer a loading dock for Caterpillar engines, I think that dock now is for parts for our next generation trucks.
Dude… Don’t EVER post your phone number on the internet. You’re asking for trouble.
Once google indexes this post, it could be out on the internet forever.Yeah I’ve seen your speech several times. 🙂 I checked for vaccum leaks with a can of WD40.
Since the idle is set by how much air is allowed in when the throttle is closed, I just removed one source (green) and it seems to have resolved it.
I saw another youtube video that explained more how the technical side of the PGM FI system worked. If the throttle is closed and the engine speed is above 1100 or 1200, the computer cuts the fuel injectors off because it thinks you’re coasting and you don’t need that extra fuel wasted.
If there is extra air getting in the system it causes the RPM to raise but since the throttle is closed the computer shuts off the injectors and that causes the idle to pop up and down.
Quoted From pcmdjason:
Tighten or replace the fast idle valve (eric has a video on it)
*After you check for air in the cooling system 😉
Frustrating day…
First inspection place said their exhaust analyzer was kaput.
Second place said they only do OBDII cars.
Third place said their exhaust analyzer wouldn’t work if there was a small hole in the resonator. Showed him with my hand there was good exhaust pressure but he still refused.Went to Oreilly and talked to the guy there. He said he tried all the exhaust patch products they sold on his truck but none held. He said the manager there recommended JB Weld putty and that has held for over a year so far.
So I got that and mooshed it in with some heavy foil from a baking pan. I got rid of all the noises. Car no longer sounded like a ricer-mobile.
On the way there I swung into my favorite used tire shop because one of the tires looked iffy. But they said they were out of 14″ used tires but had a new one for $80 which was out of my budget for today.
I took a chance and took it back.
He got in and drove it and said much better, no exhaust leak, but then saw the tire and said “Sorry I didn’t see that earlier, you need to replace that tire”
I asked him if he knew of any other places open on Sunday since the other place was out. He said he was sure Firestone was open.
So off to Firestone. They said they don’t sell used tires for “safety reasons” but could get me a cheap new one for $62 so I said ok. Then saw they did inspections too so I said to do it.
As soon as they got it on the lift he pointed at my exhaust repair and said he was going to fail me on the inspection unless it was welded. (Something I don’t have access to) so I said skip the inspection.
Took them about an hour to get the tire replaced (the used place would have been like 10 minutes) so I hurried up and zoomed to the other place but they said it was too late in the day to take any more customers… But they seemed to have no problems with the putty job.
SIGH…
Also to note, I like to do my inspections at places like Jiffy Lube or similar rather than full service car places… Less chance of them trying to tell me I need things that I’d rather either try myself or shop around.
Also the hunting idle had returned and I was concerned that it would cause issues with the inspection so I cut a piece of coffee can and blocked off the valve on the end of the intake that causes a lot of idle issues.
Not the valve that Eric shows to tighten, that’s already been done but the one on the end that assists with cold starting that runs off vacuum. This valve is not present on Japanese Accord engines and the hole is covered with a metal plate.
So I put a piece of coffee can there and tightened it back up. It seems to have done the trick.
Tighten or replace the fast idle valve (eric has a video on it)