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[url=http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/cranktool/index.html:mwulpwbs]http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/cranktool/index.html
W[/url]hat do you think?
RE: The making of your own tool.
90 percent of the time I’ve dealt with the Click and no start it was related to the battery terminals. Just for fun, hook a set of jumper cables to the battery and try to jump off another car… Did that work? If so, you’ve got a battery problem or battery terminal problem.
Sounds like it could be a bad idler pulley or power steering pump or alternator.
My recommendation is to remove the PS pump belt and alternator belt and run for a few minutes.
The PS Pump belt is super easy to remove, just loosen the left bolt under the pump that’s on a long screw, then undo the bolt on the top a few turns and hit the pump a few times with a rubber hammer. Then keep loosening the bolt and tap with hammer until the PS pump has dropped down about 1/2 an inch and the belt should slip off no problem.
I may just see if I can find someone who does house-calls to repair this. I don’t see how I’m going to get the crank bolt off without an impact gun and/or some way of stopping the engine from cranking. The crank pulley doesn’t seem to have any holes or slots in it to put a bolt through to lock it in place.
Now I’m confused.
Quoted From OnThe7ThDayFord:
No one posted how they wear doing so you all fail!!!! Lol. Thanks again.
Nothing performance related. Just had a few things disabled on the throttle body as I’ve been hunting down a vacuum leak. Nothing that affected the internal mechanics of the engine.
Quoted From cb7ftw:
Good news. Was talking to a Honda mechanic, and he said, he has yet to have a customer with a bent valve when their timing belt broke. If you where running mods that gave you high compression, then you would most likely bend a valve. Keep us posted.
Update: Took the valve cover off, the exhaust side was absolutely caked with rock hard sludge. I scraped most out with a putty knife. Also, definitely no timing belt visible.
A friend of mine says I should just pull the head now and look, but no breaker bar or torque wrenches in my tools.
The belt broke at about 65MPH, so…2500 RPM-ish? I can’t remember how this car is geared.
Edit: Found on another site that 2900 to 3000 RPM is normal for 65MPH on this car.
Quoted From Beefy:
Here’s a short vid from Briansmobile1 about such an issue. I had a conversation via Youtube comments, and he found that depending on the RPM’s that were going on when the belt broke, he would often try a new belt first, because in his experience, the belts would often break on acceleration, and not at high RPM’s, and alot of the time, the belt alone would fix the problem, because unless the belt broke while the engine was running at high RPM’s, he had alot of success with just swapping the belt, and not having to pull the head. He’s a great guy, and tries to save his customers money.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UpQDYqYHT8c
You could try just doing the belt first, and seeing it it fixes the problem is my point. It MAY save you alot of time/work.
Good luck man.
Well I figured at $18 for a belt that sounds a lot better than a new car. However I priced some junk yard heads and found them in the $150 range so that’s not a big problem.
I can’t remember did Eric do a video on timing belts for this car?
I gave up on trying to mess with the EGR ports. You need to drill and tap the plugs and pull them with a slide hammer. Something I don’t have. Of course then I’d have to replace the plugs too or have flames shooting out of the open EGR system.
http://www.facebook.com/v/10150759778123704
Video of the hacks. At one point I said EGR when I meant PCV.http://www.facebook.com/v/10150759796298704
Video of the car running.Quoted From beaker60:
Just curious,,,where did everyone get the info on the TSB,,,I need to get that info,,to the 2 shops I do diagnosis for.Thanks
I googled acura shim and found it, here’s more:
https://www.google.com/search?hl=en&saf … -031&btnG=