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July 21, 2012 at 11:00 am in reply to: Accord crank no start after timing belt snapped and replaced (Video) #460235
No, I’ve got spark so I didn’t reference that video, but I did realize something I did wrong. I had set TDC on what I thought was #1 cylinder, but turns out it was #4. It fires 1342 so I’m hoping that the only thing wrong is it is 180 degrees off where th
July 20, 2012 at 11:00 am in reply to: 1993 Accord, will it start w/o an alternator (and timing belt update) #458673Ok I’ve found someone who will let me borrow a compression tester if needed.
It might not be the same, but
July 16, 2012 at 11:00 am in reply to: 1993 Accord, will it start w/o an alternator (and timing belt update) #458672I had already set the cam to the correct position with the word “TOP” at the top. The distributor is connected directly to the cam shaft so I shouldn’t have to worry about being 180 degrees out of phase.
Fought for the longest time with an overheating problem with my wifes car. Thermostat, flusing, reflushing, flushing, radiator didn’t seem blocked, looked like it had good flow. Finally saw a hair line crack in the filler neck that was seeping. So I chang
Please give us the year and engine size. Many Holdens are renamed Chevrolet, Vauxhall or Daewoo cars so some of us may know of the car in our country by another name.
ok I did some research. This model was made from 1995 to 97 and t uses a Buick 3800 series II rwd engine. It looks like a Pontiac with a Buick butt
The Stratus is a distant relative of the Mitsubishi Galant, so this video from our good friend Briansmobile1 might help.
My Jeep with a CVT basically has a warning that the transmission fluid isn’t really considered user serviceable, but still says use Chrysler CVT+4 fluid only.
The change interval is listed as 100,000 Miles. I’m on my second transmission and have 72K on the clock. Transmission was changed at about 50K so I figure I will probably not ever have to have the fluid changed before I get rid of it again.Say for instance the vehicle will run in this condition, you could call around to some shops and ask them to try to extract the bolt.
Eric says to leave Honda wires on instead of replacing them with another brand. So I guess get Honda wires.
Problem #2. My “Pittsburgh” brand 1/2″ to 3/8″ adaptor is slowly twisting apart. The tip rotated about 1/8 of a turn.
BTW: Steelers suck. 😉
Considering buying a $12 propane torch kit at Lowes.
Maybe I should have bought a 1/2″ drive 19mm socket to begin with.
Yeah I think I’m gonna do that. A 6 point 19mm socket is $5 and the torch kit is 12-13$
I’m going to try to save my slowly warping adaptor for when I need to take something else less strenuous off.
Update 3: I magically found a 1/2″ drive 19mm socket in the bottom of the toolbox, after getting rid of the extension and 1/2 to 3/8″ stuff, a couple of quick blips and the bolt came right off.
I guess I was losing torque not having the socket directly on the impact gun.
And it was my Chicago Electric brand impact gun that was ruining my Pittsburgh brand 1/2 to 3/8″ tip. So I guess that means Bears are better than Steelers?
I’m sure dreamer might agree.
[url=http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/cranktool/index.html:mwulpwbs]http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/cranktool/index.html
W[/url]hat do you think?
RE: The making of your own tool.
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