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Yeah that was kind of my thoughts also. A dyno would be nice but might cost.
Quoted From Third Gear:
Maybe if I had a shop with a lift, but a dyno would be even better to properly load up the drivetrain. If the truck comes off the jack stands going 70 very bad things will happen. I would rather just pay the driveshaft shop the money to balance it and do everything right.
#1 Be Safe
#2 Stay DirtyQuoted From EricTheCarGuy:
I talked with the admin about this today and we looked into using the suggested software however the software we are running is not compatible with the suggested software. A:( However we will be working to make the forum better as time goes on using your input so keep those suggestions coming.
So what forum software are you running? because I’ve never seen it before.
You could have a bad lifter or a chipped/broken pushrod. If you ran low on oil one of the lifters could have
colapsed.You might do some checking on Briansmobile1’s youtube channel, he seems to do a lot of Subaru work and he may be able to give some info on this as well.
A lot of the forums that use those programs, if you for example post a youtube link, it automatically loads the video in a little box that the person can view without leaving the forum.
Here’s an example from a forum that runs Vbulletin.
PhpBB3 is pretty good and free. Most other sites use it or Vbulletin.
My main gripe is how you just can’t seem to post a URL and have it work, the forum tries to be “smart” and do something with it and it ends up not working.
Yeah, understood. I figured if I can dump something in once every month or two to cut the oil leakage in half maybe I’d settle for that. If we have to dump any kind of serious money in this car, we might as well use that money towards something else.
Quoted From dreamer2355:
Any oil stop leak products are all band aid fixes. Theres no such thing as a mechanic in a can….
Did you try a high mileage all that has seal conditions such as Penzoil High Mileage?
And becareful using too think of an oil (all dependent on your climate of course) due to excessive oil starvation at start up.
I know a lot of people have had problems with Bosch sensors on Mitsubishi eclipses and Galants not clearing the codes. But the ones with Denso sensors worked great. In fact every person who swapped the Bosch for a Denso got the code to clear and stay clear.
So the general rule of thumb at least for the Mitusbishi Galant and Eclipse is avoid the Bosch sensors like the plague. When I did the sensor in my wife’s Galant luckily I got a Denso sensor (at the time I didn’t know about the issues with Bosch) and it looked identical to the sensor pulled out so it worked perfectly.
I think the Bosch sensors use slots and the Denso sensors use holes. Not sure if that matters or not.
Looks like some folks agree..
They said the Bosch sensors don’t seem to react as fast as the Denso ones.
I would make sure that you’re running genuine licensed Chrysler ATF+4 Fluid and not universal fluid.
Chrysler is very strict on their spec licensing as ATF+4 is more grabby than other fluids like Merc and Dex. Using other fluids will cause a significant amount of slippage. Fresh ATF+4 straight out of the bottle smells like vomit unfortunately.
These are the only licened replacements for original fluid:
Advance Auto Parts ATF+4
Valves hitting pistons means a timing issue. If the car has a solid metal chain and not a rubber belt the chances of it ever going out of time as a result of driving habits are so low it’s probably not measurable. In order for a car with a metal timing chain to slip out of time would require a significant amount of teeth to be missing from the gear so that there would be a point where the chain for a brief moment had no teeth in contact with it.
My gut diagnosis is the timing was not set correctly when the head was installed.
Now there are 4 other possibilities.
1. You were sold the wrong head. Maybe you got a head for a 1.8 and installed it on a 1.6.
2. The head guy installed the wrong valves, or lifters causing them to stick out too much.
3. The head guy put the wrong cam in. The lobes are oversized lifting the valves out too far.
4. Valve float: My first car was an 87 pontiac sunbird with a OHC engine. One day the engine lost all power and could barely get to 20MPH.I took it to the stealer and he suspected valves were not staying in contact with the cam lobes as a result of worn engine or revving too much. (Hey I was 16!) At the time I didn’t think about it but valve float sounds like that’s what was happening in my case.
Valves hitting pistons means a timing issue. If the car has a solid metal chain and not a rubber belt the chances of it ever going out of time as a result of driving habits are so low it’s probably not measurable. In order for a car with a metal timing chain to slip out of time would require a significant amount of teeth to be missing from the gear so that there would be a point where the chain for a brief moment had no teeth in contact with it.
My gut diagnosis is the timing was not set correctly when the head was installed.
Now there are 4 other possibilities.
1. You were sold the wrong head. Maybe you got a head for a 1.8 and installed it on a 1.6.
2. The head guy installed the wrong valves, or lifters causing them to stick out too much.
3. The head guy put the wrong cam in. The lobes are oversized lifting the valves out too far.
4. Valve float: My first car was an 87 pontiac sunbird with a OHC engine. One day the engine lost all power and could barely get to 20MPH.I took it to the stealer and he suspected valves were not staying in contact with the cam lobes as a result of worn engine or revving too much. (Hey I was 16!) At the time I didn’t think about it but valve float sounds like that’s what was happening in my case.
I’ve heard blocking the FITV off can solve a lot of idle issues.
In Japan they don’t even use the valve since it is used to help stabilize the idle and provide better running in cold climates.
My wife’s Mitsubishi Galant blew a plug but we didn’t realize it. It just seemed to miss really bad at idle but smoothed out at higher speeds. It was dark so I took it for a test drive and just revved the hell out of it thinking somehow that might help. But no luck. And I could smell a lot of burning oil.
The next day the engine bay was covered in oil residue. And the coil boot was like charcoal. I tried it put a new plug in but it just dropped down without catching the threads. It sat for a week with me doing all sorts of research and finally bit the bullet and bought a kit to re-tap it having never done it before. (BTW many tap kits will not fit down spark plug tubes once you put a socket on them, O’Reilly had one that instead took a socket or 3/8″ drive extension)
I dipped the tapping tool in petroleum jelly and frequently pulled it out and removed the metal chips. I was worried about tapping too far and hitting something and in the end didn’t go down far enough but by that time the sleeve had been installed and it was too late.
The coil sits about 1/4 inch higher than it should but it works ok. I shimmed it with 1 nut on each side. I also had to replace the spark plug gasket since it burned away and fragments of it were bouncing all around the lifters.
It worked out in the end but the whole week I was worried about it.