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I used to have a Dodge Stratus with random idle crazieness and it was a wire bundle that had worn through and randomly shorting.
If it’s a Ford, first things first, are there any holes in the hood that line up with the spark plug tubes?
Ok this video isn’t a Detroit Diesel but one made by Electro Motive.
In Detroit terminology it would be a 16v710.
710 cubic inches displacement per cylinder!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C5NLsQFb78k
And here’s a 20 cylinder EMD engine with 645 cubic inches of displacement per cylinder being started from an air starter.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6fpZF5oq … re=related
And a V20 with 710 cubic inches per cylinder, running flat-out at 896 RPM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hFVJ9Lhhm0I&NR=1
Another EMD engine with the valve cover panels open.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i59c2Cz- … re=related
There were one or two videos that just made me think, I don’t recall what they were about but it was something along the lines of just pour a bottle of Bob’s Mechanic in a can and you’ll be as good as new.
It seemed like he glossed over the problem.
Also one video about transmissions he said something along the lines of just buy universal ATF and use that. When we know a lot of cars are picky. Chyslers and Hondas come to mind. Maybe Mitsubishis since they just say use DiaQueen/Diamond SPIII.
I don’t doubt he’s a good mechanic but just some kind of vibe I get from him that’s a little off-putting.
Duane at RealFixesRealFast, Briansmobile1, and Eric for some reason all feel like people that you could just talk to in real life.
Quoted From killman:
You can find cheap ODB 2 code readers with CAN abilities starting around $30. For $75 or so you can get a nice ODB 2 USB adapter that workings on a laptop and does real time data. Otherwise you are just guessing at the problem.
Here’s my review of a 20$ USB scanner cable.
With my early 90’s S10 with the 4.3 V6 I was never able to change the back two spark plugs the engine was just too big stuck out so far in the back I couldn’t get any tools back there to take them out.
EDIT: Just for fun I googled it. Looks like the preferred method is remove the front wheels and go up from the fender. I wouldn’t have thought about that.
How does it do without the filter on it at all? I’m wondering if having the MAF so close to the cone it isn’t picking up a leak or a spot in the cone where air is coming through faster.
Think of it like a like having pulling the release pin on an air compressor where all the air comes out one hole at extreme velocity and that is hitting the MAF and skewing the results.
If you have access to a OBDII cable and Scantool.NET you could check the readings for MAF and maybe fuel trim. When the car heats up the O2 sensor takes over a large portion of monitoring the air/fuel balance. If this car does not have a heated O2 sensor it may take longer for this to smooth out.
Another idea is see if you could put something to slightly diffuse the air coming towards the sensor element. Or if you could somehow re-engineer this so the MAF is closer to the intake manifold but not in the way of the oncoming vent gases coming from the valve cover since that could deposit on the MAF element and damage it.
I’ve never used Torque before on my phone since I just have a cable, but if you’re starting from a cold engine, I’d go anything MAF related, O2 sensor related, and short term fuel trim. If the car has the ability to monitor intake temperatures I’d check that as well.
?Until heated up the O2 sensor will read .5V because the computer is substituting data until real data is available. At this time the air flow readings from the MAF are helping the computer determine the amount of fuel for the injectors to fire.
Watch the short term fuel trim at this time, if the MAF is reading too much air the fuel trim may go up into the high single digits or even double digits and stay around in that area.
Once the O2 sensor heats up to operating temperature and the O2 readings start bouncing up and down, notice if the engine smooths out.
Fuel trim will probably stay in low single digits at this time as the computer is only having to make minor corrections.Positive fuel trim means more fuel is being told by the computer to be sent into the cylinders, Negative fuel trim means the computer is telling the injectors to cut back on fuel.
Now these are done in correction to maintain a 14.7:1 air fuel ratio. Which is why if you rev the engine the fuel trim may spike but then level out again in the low single digits since the computer has compensated and is now maintaining 14.7:1 again despite the increased consumption of both.
A coworker of mine had a mid 90’s Mustang GT that he put long tube headers on. The car would barely run until the O2 sensor heated up since it was so far down the line from the engine.
Quoted From lostboykev:
I actually have a bluetooth OBD adapter that I use in conjunction with my android phone. I remember it supported realtime MAF and fuel trim readouts. What exactly should I be looking at when I’m viewing those readouts?
Also this intake is composed of multiple pieces, I should be able to move it up another 5 inches if need be. But then I’d need to extended the length of cable for the MAF sensor.
You said truck or suv.
Quoted From raceking1324:
no i would like a 4×4 truck not a suv and i would use the tuck for a little bit of 4x4ing and a little bit of towing but a lot for work and for vacations.
This sounds like when RealFixesRealFast did a 3 part video on symptoms, evidence and solution where they gave you a bunch of codes, waited several days and let you guess.
If you’re sure there’s no exhaust leaks, then like was said above, look for oil burning off the engine.
http://www.youtube.com/results?search_q … asket&aq=0
I’m not sure if there’s a safe way to do this, but if you could some how elevate the rear tires and spin them up to 70-75 and put a strobe on the drive shaft which you had marked with a white crayon every 36 degrees or so and adjust the strobe so you could see if you could see the drive shaft wobbling.