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The oil in the well caused my mom’s sparkplug boots to come off much easier than normal causing her engine to miss a lot.
Broken transmission mount. My old 96 stratus had the same problem. I’m guessing the problem mostly goes away when you shift into N right?
When I shifted into reverse, the transmission pushed up into the mount when I shifted into D it pulled away. I don’t recall very well but I think it was near the seam where the transmission connects to the engine closer to the front.
Hendrix, Cream, The Who, SRV, Alice in Chains, Soundgarden, Metallica, Nirvana
Outside of Soundgarden and Metallica for some reason a lot of my favorite bands had a major member die.
Sort of makes me wish I listened to more Rolling Stones so I could add it to the list.
I seem to like mostly stuff from the 90’s back. It seems like once I got out of highschool music started sucking.
I would start with this video from RealFixesRealFast.
Yeah I like the high tech stuff he has .
Here’s another one to look at:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CR32Lpt6 … re=related
Quoted From silveralfa:
Thanks for your input, That guy at real fixes is an amazing tech. My car shows by the code it is misfiring but there has never been a running problem. I have never felt it misfire.
I skipped an oil change once on my Jeep which uses a similar system to vtec and it was down a quart but that was at 7000 miles.
A friend of mine has a 98 GSX that in his words “has everything” and I got to stand behind it last week while it was idling and you could feel the thumping in your chest from the exhaust.
I bought the cheapest ELM327 USB cable and use my laptop with Scantool.NET and it works pretty good.
It’s a mixed bag I think. Some electrical components will fit but not work quite as well. I’ve heard of many people who used Bosch O2 sensors in Mitsubishis and Hondas that after a few days the car started throwing codes.
When they switched to Denso (the OEM brand typically used in Asian cars) the codes went away and never came back.
There could also be “NEW” OEM and Aftermarket “OEM”
Items which as far as the dealer are concerned are the same but may have been contracted out to a third party to be sold as dealer parts.
Well one thing you can do is do whatever to keep your engine revs as low as possible. In “polite driving” you can probably get by without ever having to go over 2500. If it is a manual, you can have pretty good control over this.
As far as driving, that’s the best I can come up with.
You can sometimes bump your tire pressure up about 2 lbs higher than the spec to gain a little bit of fuel economy.
You might consider a performance air filter like a K&N to maximize flow.If you have a OBDII USB cable like I do, you can get a real-time engine load display and you can try it with various accessories turned on and off to see where your biggest draw comes from. On a small engine like that, you could see 15% or more load by having the A/C on.
Anything that is belt driven is stealing power from the engine, if certain parts are old and worn they could be pulling too much on the engine as well.