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[pcmdjason]

I’d like an easy way to see everything I’ve posted in order.

[pcmdjason]

When in doubt, go stock.

[pcmdjason]

Last time I checked the poll was in favor of keeping FATR on the main channel.

[pcmdjason]

My mom’s ’93 has 170k+ and I took it for a drive today and was going about 30 and floored it, it downshifted about 2 gears and jumped up to 5K on the tach and the front end jumped around from the tires breaking loose from the pavement.

Quoted From Tasogare:

1992 Honda Accord LX.

Nice car – ran very strong even at 150k miles. Eventually got rid of it because it was going to cost way too much to fix it up the way I wanted to. The previous owner(s) had it messed up pretty good. I’ll remember it though – took me through college!

[pcmdjason]

I’m sure they’d recommend you flush your tranny with Johnson’s Baby Oil if they were paid to.

[pcmdjason]

I’d like to see more large project videos. Sort of like the Dodge and the Chevy engine videos. I realize that engine swaps just don’t come across every day so that’s more of a pie in the sky type thing.

Another idea I thought of, I don’t know if this is possible or will even pan out, but how about sort of mechanic on the street type videos?

Maybe start calling a few used car lots that buy and sell used cars and in exchange for a free youtube plug, you spend a few hours with their mechanic and see what comes in etc. Or something like “flip this house” but “flip this car” (not literally…) or like Pawn Stars.

Lets say the lot pays someone a $500 trade in for a car, but it has obvious problems and you could film what steps go into turning the $500 car into a $1500 car etc. Then you calculate the expenditures and profit.

I guess it is possible with real repair places but you might get into customer privacy issues. So I might think cars that were being worked on that were owned by the lot would eliminate it.

Pick up a repo car or a craigs list car or something, then diagnose it.

Just some ideas.

[pcmdjason]

Have you checked the FITV?

http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1564019

I’ve also heard of people bypassing the FITV completely by putting a thin piece of metal between the TB and where the FITV mounts up.

http://www.92lude.com/idle_air_control_bypass_mod.htm

JDM Accords do not have a FITV at all since it is designed for cars that could be used in very cold climates to warm them up faster.

In my personal opinion, the FITV causes more trouble than it fixes since Honda idle issues are all over the ‘net.

[pcmdjason]

On the back it should say “but don’t forget to wipe”

[pcmdjason]

Fuel trim can be read from a real-time ODBII scan tool that can display live engine data.

I have a video myself on reading live data on an engine here:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d0ucS4RydkA

And here’s a video from realfixesrealfast that talks about how fuel trim works.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mzsOY_AhgY4

Quoted From silveralfa:

The results of checking the power balance are that there is no difference between cylinders. When each coil connector is removed there is a skip created that goes away when I put the connector is replaced. Question: how do i check my fuel trims?

[pcmdjason]

I work 2 jobs in IT, one a main job at a large company and one at a national retailer that also fixes computers.

All the time I get people “I need you to install an antivirus on my computer, I’m severely infected and can’t get online”

I explain to them firstly installing an antivirus program is not the way to remove a virus and very rarely fixes the infection secondly if the computer will not get online you will not be able to download the definitions which further complicates the matter.

Then I tell them about the virus removal service we have that gets around all those issues and is scanned with 7 different products not just one.

Then they get mad and say “You just don’t want to help me” and leave or refuse to leave and argue with me. Or they think I’m some dumb gamer kid who got a job fixing computers for fun (I’ve been out of highschool for 15 years and have been doing this much longer than that)

FYI: Removing modern viruses and malware is too complicated to explain to a lay person period. If installing 1 program could fix it, then the PC Service industry would close up shop. Many pieces of malware can insert commands into parts of the registry that themselves are harmless as far as antivirus programs are typically concerned but can command the computer to download the latest version of the malware every time the computer turns on.

[pcmdjason]

As far as an alignment not causing vibration, well in a way it can… The alignment issue can cause abnormal tire wear that can lead to the the tire forming a bubble that sticks out and causes the shaking.

[pcmdjason]

The oil in the well caused my mom’s sparkplug boots to come off much easier than normal causing her engine to miss a lot.

[pcmdjason]

Broken transmission mount. My old 96 stratus had the same problem. I’m guessing the problem mostly goes away when you shift into N right?

[pcmdjason]

When I shifted into reverse, the transmission pushed up into the mount when I shifted into D it pulled away. I don’t recall very well but I think it was near the seam where the transmission connects to the engine closer to the front.

[pcmdjason]

Hey I found my old post from several years ago:

I recently purchased a used 1995 Stratus ( 146,000 miles )the guy that
sold it to me said the idle was erratic (anywhere from 1000 to 2500
rpm). It got better after replacing the TPS and checking vacuum lines.
But the main problem I’m having is severe vibration when the vehicle
is in Drive. In neutral or reverse, it is smooth as silk, but when I
shift into Drive, the vehicle sometimes vibrates so badly that the
rear-view mirror is blurry and accelerating sounds almost like there
is no muffler the noise is so loud.

I also noticed that if I come to a complete stop and shift into Park
it gets better but if I let off the brakes and roll forward it starts
the whole vibration thing as the vehicle rolls forward but goes away
as the vehicle rocks backwards. I’m really stumped on this one.

I was suspecting a torque converter problem, but when I started
noticing the issue in Park I wasn’t so sure. Also if the torque
converter was shot, why would it run so smoothly in Reverse? I can
give it all the gas I want in reverse and the car is pretty much
silent, but any forward gear vibrates like crazy.

The only way I can explain the sensation is if you go to a top-fuel
drag race and the feeling you get on your face as the dragsters go by.

Also sometimes if I stop and shift it into Neutral at a light or stop
sign and then shift into Drive, I accelerate forward maybe about 10
feet and then hear a loud clunk and the vehicle jumps forward.

Ideas? Suggestions? This car was very inexpensive, so the fact that
it rolls forward and the A/C works means it was worth what I spent,
but I’d like to figure this issue out so I could have a little more
piece of mind.

Thanks!

The reply was…

You have a motor mount that is bad. The isolator is worn and causing metal
on metal.

Glenn
Chrysler Tech

[Author]

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