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This is a video I made on my channel about the one I bought for $20. They also make one that’s a little bit more that is bluetooth enabled that you can link to an Android phone and use the application “torque”. Iphones may have a similar app.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d0ucS4RydkA
Quoted From Neo:
Any brand of scanner in particular? A first time buyer can loose one’s shirt!
I was out of town and had to have a mechanic scan and replace a COP, so I replaced all 8 when I returned, about 3 months ago.
The injectors came off for cleaning last week, and I set a stethoscope on them this afternoon, they all sound normal, clicking with a consistent rhythm.
One thing I noted on the injector cleaning, I read that the fuel rails (schrader valve) needed to be depressurized. I was expecting a geyser from what I’d read, but it was a nonevent. Not sure if Fords run high pressure or if it bleeds off after letting it set to cool. It might be starving for fuel, I don’t know. I guess a scanner would tell me that also.
I’ve use SuperTech 5w20 for my last oil change, before that I used Motorcraft 5W20 Semi-Synthetic.
That was for my Jeep. It’s asked 3 times for an oil change, but I’ve changed it twice. I left the Semi-Synthetic in until it asked me the second time. I guess I should have changed it sooner but I got tired of the constant dinging and also “Change Oil” was covering my trip-odometer. I cleared it thinking I’d get around to it and before I knew it, it asked again.
If decent oil weren’t 2x as expensive as no-name oil I might start using it more often.
GM Ecotec engines have plastic cap you unscrew and pull the element out. I kinda liked it, less messy to change.
Having lived in Texas 99.9% of my life, that’s nothing I’d ever really check for…. Until my father who lives up north now said sometimes cars that aren’t road worthy due to severe rusting from road salt up north will get shipped to the south where people won’t bother lookin for it.
Quoted From SpawnedX:
Rust.
I’m just mentally coming up with what I might do if I hadn’t seen the video.
I’m thinking a drill, a strong toggle bolt and a slide hammer.But I’d try Duane’s way first.
Learning has no age. I’ve learned more about cars in the past year than I’ve learned in the past 30.
Mainly because of Eric, RealFixesRealFast, BriansMobile1 and just because I have to keep fixing my wife’s car since we’ve got no money to pay anyone to do it.I just eat up Duane’s videos (realfixesrealfast) when he busts out with the Verus and starts with graphs and wave patterns.
Quoted From hondaslave1342:
this was down right delicious…love this thread…i wish i was 20 again..i would go back to school……
Are you 100% sure it is oil? It could be old sludge and sediment that can accumulate in the radiator and can look very slimy and oily.
If you truly have oil in the antifreeze, it could be from a crack in the engine or a head gasket issue.
We will probably need some more information than that unfortunately. Where is the whistling coming from?
I buy filters and oil at Walmart, for other stuff I price it at Autozone or Oreilly. There’s really not a big presence of Advance Auto in my area. There are a few NAPA stores but they tend to be more expensive. There’s also PepBoys but their website isn’t very helpful for finding parts unless I want a battery or tires.
(Since I assume they’d rather have them do the repair)
AZ and Oreilly go back and forth as to who has the cheapest parts.
I buy filters and oil at Walmart, for other stuff I price it at Autozone or Oreilly. There’s really not a big presence of Advance Auto in my area. There are a few NAPA stores but they tend to be more expensive. There’s also PepBoys but their website isn’t very helpful for finding parts unless I want a battery or tires.
(Since I assume they’d rather have them do the repair)
AZ and Oreilly go back and forth as to who has the cheapest parts.
Take a look at these videos for more information on where the problem could be.
How the EVAP system works and what causes codes:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dfj-F_pTj5M
How to diagnose EVAP problems:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CSn0ljUS … ure=relmfu
Another video on EVAP testing:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RwFCqu5s … re=related
Sounds like one side is working too good, or the other side is not working well enough. Unless you’ve just had brake work done, I would assume one side is not working well enough.
Take the wheels off and check for signs of leaking brake fluid.
I would check the drum brakes first. You may have a leaking wheel cylinder. They are inexpensive to repair, I rebuilt one with the help of a neighbor who was an auto repair instructor at a technical high school in the area. The cost was less than $10 for the rebuild kit.
Pulling brakes could also be caused by something that is on the brake pad such as oil or fluid. If the brake pads are wet with fluid they should probably be replaced. (After you solve the problem of the leak of course)
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wheel_cylinder
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&suge … 80&bih=632