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[pcmdjason]

I’m guessing there’s some pictures supposed to be there?

[pcmdjason]

Well I won’t be the only one nosing around in there other male members of the family will have dibs also, and we have explicit instructions to only take what we can use and are not allowed to sell anything we take.

Anything valuable will be part of the estate.

Now that I think about it there was a breaker bar in that and I think if I could find a torque wrench that would be useful.

He has a shed full of old (really old) pvc pipe but much of it is brittle.

[pcmdjason]

Under load can be simulated on an Automatic Transmission vehicle by putting your foot hard on the brake, shifting into D and revving the engine up without moving.

As far as I know you can safely start a car with the scanner connected.

[pcmdjason]

I leave my scanner plugged in when starting, no issues.

[pcmdjason]

And finally… An official Mitsubishi TSB on purging and cleaning them:

http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/ … eaning.pdf

[pcmdjason]

I made a video today on lash adjuster inspection. Not sure what your car has because you haven’t told us what it was, but maybe could help.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ntyx9g5z … ideo_title

[pcmdjason]

Here’s a video I did today after I had pulled the rocker rail. I showed the play in the lash adjusters that was causing the clatter.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ntyx9g5z … ideo_title

[pcmdjason]

Probably ran it in with an impact gun.

[pcmdjason]

I wonder if JB weld would actually hold.

I was going to suggest having it welded with a MIG gun but that might cause a fire.

[pcmdjason]

I dunno why but I think silcone or rtv might stick better.

[pcmdjason]

Just an update, she said the problem went away a few days later. I’m thinking debris got inside everything. She said the braking performance has not changed at all. I haven’t been over there during the day to look at it.

[pcmdjason]

Check your transmission fluid. I had a car that got a gash in the transmission pan and it was so low that you’d have to rev to almost 4000 RPM to get it to jerk forward.

If the torque converter is empty or low, it can’t generate a fluid coupling with the engine. If the torque converter pulls the fluid in from the transmission and there’s not enough left over the clutches could slip and burn.

[pcmdjason]

I know on the Dodge trucks they seem to be any combination of on the wheels, differential or side of the transmission.
It took me a few attempts on my 99 Dodge to get the right one replaced. But on the Dodges it is common for the speedometer to stop working as well.

Maybe the wire is loose or shorting on yours.

[pcmdjason]

I would say a real-time scanner that can show misses before they throw a code.

On many cars it takes as much as 13,000 to 16,000 misfires to throw a code.

You could also try unpluging the spark plug coils one by one and start the engine and see if you hit one where the miss doesn’t change. If you find that, then swap two coils and see if the miss follows the coil. If it does, change that coil. If the miss still seems to be coming from the same cylinder, you’ll want to repeat the procedure with the fuel injectors, unplug the wire from them one at a time and see if you find one where the miss doesn’t change.

Then I’d check the wires going to the injector while the truck is running with a test light and see if it flashes or not if it isn’t flashing then the injector isn’t getting power. If it does then possibly the injector is bad.

When changing or swapping an injector you might want to pull the fuel pump relay and run the engine till it dies or you might get sprayed with fuel when you pull the injector out.

If you’ve still not solved it checking the compression may be something worth looking into.

[pcmdjason]

This is a video I made on my channel about the one I bought for $20. They also make one that’s a little bit more that is bluetooth enabled that you can link to an Android phone and use the application “torque”. Iphones may have a similar app.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d0ucS4RydkA

Quoted From Neo:

Any brand of scanner in particular? A first time buyer can loose one’s shirt!

I was out of town and had to have a mechanic scan and replace a COP, so I replaced all 8 when I returned, about 3 months ago.

The injectors came off for cleaning last week, and I set a stethoscope on them this afternoon, they all sound normal, clicking with a consistent rhythm.

One thing I noted on the injector cleaning, I read that the fuel rails (schrader valve) needed to be depressurized. I was expecting a geyser from what I’d read, but it was a nonevent. Not sure if Fords run high pressure or if it bleeds off after letting it set to cool. It might be starving for fuel, I don’t know. I guess a scanner would tell me that also.

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