Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
Eric,
Thank you for the explanation. I am prepared to replace the head gasket if a simple fix doesn’t work. When you say “game over” I assume you mean that I will have to replace the head gasket.
Bill
Eric,
Thank you for the explanation. I am prepared to replace the head gasket if a simple fix doesn’t work. When you say “game over” I assume you mean that I will have to replace the head gasket.
Bill
Eric,
Still working on this external head gasket leak. Do you think that a product like Hondabond applied at the point of the leak may stop this leak?
Thanks.
Bill
Eric,
Still working on this external head gasket leak. Do you think that a product like Hondabond applied at the point of the leak may stop this leak?
Thanks.
Bill
Interesting about the split gear. I read this after I removed the exhaust cam (the one with the split gear). It did not come apart or move …. I did mark the cam gear matting points with “white out” so that I could properly re-install it. I guess I was lucky…
Once the exhaust cam was out I was able to check the head bolts on the front of the engine and they were tight.
I will update as I continue to try to fix the (now) smaller leak.
I did contact JB Weld about the possibility of using their products to externally seal the head gasket leak. Here is their reply:
“JB Weld has had many customers use our products on their head gaskets with success. If you have the time and patience and could apply the Original JB Weld epoxy, I would use that product instead. With a temperature resistance up to 550 degrees and a 3960 PSI rating it is stronger and has a higher heat resistance than our putty product called High Heat. If the application is too difficult to apply this more liquid epoxy the next best option would defiantly be the High Heat product.
Cleanliness is important in the application process with our products. The cleaner the better. All of our products, once fully cured, cannot be taken off with any type of solvent. Burning and grinding are the only ways to get our products off of the surfaces, hints the “World’s Strongest Bond”.
I hope that I have assisted you in your application of our product. If there is anything else I can do for you please let me know.”Bill
Interesting about the split gear. I read this after I removed the exhaust cam (the one with the split gear). It did not come apart or move …. I did mark the cam gear matting points with “white out” so that I could properly re-install it. I guess I was lucky…
Once the exhaust cam was out I was able to check the head bolts on the front of the engine and they were tight.
I will update as I continue to try to fix the (now) smaller leak.
I did contact JB Weld about the possibility of using their products to externally seal the head gasket leak. Here is their reply:
“JB Weld has had many customers use our products on their head gaskets with success. If you have the time and patience and could apply the Original JB Weld epoxy, I would use that product instead. With a temperature resistance up to 550 degrees and a 3960 PSI rating it is stronger and has a higher heat resistance than our putty product called High Heat. If the application is too difficult to apply this more liquid epoxy the next best option would defiantly be the High Heat product.
Cleanliness is important in the application process with our products. The cleaner the better. All of our products, once fully cured, cannot be taken off with any type of solvent. Burning and grinding are the only ways to get our products off of the surfaces, hints the “World’s Strongest Bond”.
I hope that I have assisted you in your application of our product. If there is anything else I can do for you please let me know.”Bill
Eric,
I am trying to take this slow… I have never gotten in to taking an engine apart and I appreciate your help. Thought I would check to be sure the head bolts are tight.
Removed valve cover. Looks like next step is to remove both cam shafts. I assume I have to mark them some way so when I put them back in they are in the proper orientation. Am I correct and how do I do that? Will the cam shafts just lift out once the retaining bolts are removed?
FYI: I did a minimum price check with two shops. One was $1100 and one was $1800. Seems like a lot to me for a 4 cylinder engine.
I checked online with a auto repair cost estimator and the range there was $800+ (Dealer) to $500+ independent shop.
I really appreciate your help. I want to learn more about how to do this…. Money is not the issue. I am a DIYer, am retired, have time and enjoy learning how to do new things.
Thanks,
Bill
Eric,
I am trying to take this slow… I have never gotten in to taking an engine apart and I appreciate your help. Thought I would check to be sure the head bolts are tight.
Removed valve cover. Looks like next step is to remove both cam shafts. I assume I have to mark them some way so when I put them back in they are in the proper orientation. Am I correct and how do I do that? Will the cam shafts just lift out once the retaining bolts are removed?
FYI: I did a minimum price check with two shops. One was $1100 and one was $1800. Seems like a lot to me for a 4 cylinder engine.
I checked online with a auto repair cost estimator and the range there was $800+ (Dealer) to $500+ independent shop.
I really appreciate your help. I want to learn more about how to do this…. Money is not the issue. I am a DIYer, am retired, have time and enjoy learning how to do new things.
Thanks,
Bill
I pulled the heater control panel. Not as hard as I thought. Tried to troubleshoot it…. using the YouTube video “HOW TO: Toyota Camry Heater FIX !!!” No luck. Reconnected the Heater Control Unit (without full installation …. connecting cables through the bezel opening). It seems to work now. Connections just bad?????
Should I spray something on the connections before I do a full re-install to improve the connections?
I pulled the heater control panel. Not as hard as I thought. Tried to troubleshoot it…. using the YouTube video “HOW TO: Toyota Camry Heater FIX !!!” No luck. Reconnected the Heater Control Unit (without full installation …. connecting cables through the bezel opening). It seems to work now. Connections just bad?????
Should I spray something on the connections before I do a full re-install to improve the connections?