Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
OEM spec is NGK platinum plugs, at a cost of nearly $15 per plug. No thank you. I run copper-core plugs, as I have been for nearly 12 years, and change them out every 10K-15K miles. $8 for a set of four and I swap them out in 5 minutes flat.
I hold the opinion that super-long-lasting platinum and iridium plugs are great for cars with very limited/difficult access, such as FWD V6 cars where the intake manifold has to come out to access the rear 3 plugs. But on a Honda B or D-series engine with excellent access, it just makes better sense to me to run the copper core plugs (copper conducts current better than other metals), and change them out more often.
OEM spec is NGK platinum plugs, at a cost of nearly $15 per plug. No thank you. I run copper-core plugs, as I have been for nearly 12 years, and change them out every 10K-15K miles. $8 for a set of four and I swap them out in 5 minutes flat.
I hold the opinion that super-long-lasting platinum and iridium plugs are great for cars with very limited/difficult access, such as FWD V6 cars where the intake manifold has to come out to access the rear 3 plugs. But on a Honda B or D-series engine with excellent access, it just makes better sense to me to run the copper core plugs (copper conducts current better than other metals), and change them out more often.
I have always used NGK copper core plugs and NGK blue wires nearly as long as I’ve owned the car, over 11 years and 240K miles. The old distributor was definitely the original OEM Honda. Could it not have also been the failure of one of the sensors inside the distributor, which I understand is not serviceable?
Thanks again for everyone’s help and suggestions. The new distributor came with a lifetime warranty, so if anything happens to it I’ll deal with it then.
I have always used NGK copper core plugs and NGK blue wires nearly as long as I’ve owned the car, over 11 years and 240K miles. The old distributor was definitely the original OEM Honda. Could it not have also been the failure of one of the sensors inside the distributor, which I understand is not serviceable?
Thanks again for everyone’s help and suggestions. The new distributor came with a lifetime warranty, so if anything happens to it I’ll deal with it then.
Yeah well, I don’t think I would have been able to afford an OEM Honda brand new distributor anyway.
Yeah well, I don’t think I would have been able to afford an OEM Honda brand new distributor anyway.
Thanks Eric and everyone else for all the suggestions. The good news is that IT RUNS! :woohoo: After 10 days of sitting lifeless. I ordered a brand new Cardone Select distributor with everything complete, including lifetime warranty, on Monday, and just got it today. Swapped it out in about 15 minutes and the car fired up INSTANTLY! I’m talking the fastest I’ve ever heard a car start when turning the key. Starter barely made one revolution and it was running. WOOHOO!!
I set the distributor ignition timing roughly to where the old one was set, and then drove it around for 15 minutes or so to get it warmed up. Came back, jumped the service connector, hooked up the timing light and dialed in the timing to 18° BTDC (spec is 14-18, I like to run it towards the advanced end), and the car was idling rock solid at 750 RPM.
So $400 later I’m back on the road. The battery was old and needed replacing anyway, but I don’t think I’ve EVER seen a plug wire with no continuity whatsoever. Somehow the distributor going out could have taken a plug wire out with it perhaps? Who knows. I’m just thrilled to have it going again.
Original distributor lasted 324,000 miles. I guess that was a pretty good run. B)
*edit* Eric I did try most of the stuff you mentioned, including checking every single fuse, and checking the ignition switch. My ignition switch actually did fry itself almost 7 years ago. Car died while driving, got it towed, got a new switch and harness overnighted and installed it in the parking lot of the repair shop where it was sitting, and was on my way. I noticed then that nothing normally powered up with the key in the On position would work (wipers, windows), but that wasn’t the case this time.
Thanks again for everyone’s help. Eric I love your videos. 😉
Thanks Eric and everyone else for all the suggestions. The good news is that IT RUNS! :woohoo: After 10 days of sitting lifeless. I ordered a brand new Cardone Select distributor with everything complete, including lifetime warranty, on Monday, and just got it today. Swapped it out in about 15 minutes and the car fired up INSTANTLY! I’m talking the fastest I’ve ever heard a car start when turning the key. Starter barely made one revolution and it was running. WOOHOO!!
I set the distributor ignition timing roughly to where the old one was set, and then drove it around for 15 minutes or so to get it warmed up. Came back, jumped the service connector, hooked up the timing light and dialed in the timing to 18° BTDC (spec is 14-18, I like to run it towards the advanced end), and the car was idling rock solid at 750 RPM.
So $400 later I’m back on the road. The battery was old and needed replacing anyway, but I don’t think I’ve EVER seen a plug wire with no continuity whatsoever. Somehow the distributor going out could have taken a plug wire out with it perhaps? Who knows. I’m just thrilled to have it going again.
Original distributor lasted 324,000 miles. I guess that was a pretty good run. B)
*edit* Eric I did try most of the stuff you mentioned, including checking every single fuse, and checking the ignition switch. My ignition switch actually did fry itself almost 7 years ago. Car died while driving, got it towed, got a new switch and harness overnighted and installed it in the parking lot of the repair shop where it was sitting, and was on my way. I noticed then that nothing normally powered up with the key in the On position would work (wipers, windows), but that wasn’t the case this time.
Thanks again for everyone’s help. Eric I love your videos. 😉
Thanks. Car cranks over so it’s not the clutch interlock. Starter won’t even work if the clutch pedal is not depressed.
I’m trying to source another ECU and/or distributor locally to see if I can swap them out and see what happens.
Thanks. Car cranks over so it’s not the clutch interlock. Starter won’t even work if the clutch pedal is not depressed.
I’m trying to source another ECU and/or distributor locally to see if I can swap them out and see what happens.
Put in a brand new 500 CCA battery today. Car cranks strong on its own now. But still no start. Checked fuel pressure, it’s spot on at 48 PSI.
I seriously do not get this. Spark at all 4 plugs, spark at the coil (obviously), fuel pressure, good battery, good PGM-FI main relay. I went back through all the tests listed in the FSM for when the engine will not start. Did the ECU checks, fuel components, sensors. Everything checks out. The only thing I haven’t done is run the tests on the sensors at the actual ECU (checking for opens or shorts between the ECU and the sensors) simply because, well, nobody has the OEM test harness, and I don’t have multimeter leads that are thin/sharp enough to back-probe the wire harness.
Unfortunately I can’t seem to locate a good Integra P72 ECU locally to try out. Checked local CL and Facebook, nobody seems to have one.
Have now dropped over $200 on this car (for parts that were bad anyway) but am seriously frustrated that I can’t figure this out.
Put in a brand new 500 CCA battery today. Car cranks strong on its own now. But still no start. Checked fuel pressure, it’s spot on at 48 PSI.
I seriously do not get this. Spark at all 4 plugs, spark at the coil (obviously), fuel pressure, good battery, good PGM-FI main relay. I went back through all the tests listed in the FSM for when the engine will not start. Did the ECU checks, fuel components, sensors. Everything checks out. The only thing I haven’t done is run the tests on the sensors at the actual ECU (checking for opens or shorts between the ECU and the sensors) simply because, well, nobody has the OEM test harness, and I don’t have multimeter leads that are thin/sharp enough to back-probe the wire harness.
Unfortunately I can’t seem to locate a good Integra P72 ECU locally to try out. Checked local CL and Facebook, nobody seems to have one.
Have now dropped over $200 on this car (for parts that were bad anyway) but am seriously frustrated that I can’t figure this out.
You don’t think the low CCA is just from cranking the starter over LOTS of times since the engine quit on Sunday, and also the process of getting towed (pulled behind another vehicle) Sunday evening with my parking lights and flashers on, plus brake lights?
You don’t think the low CCA is just from cranking the starter over LOTS of times since the engine quit on Sunday, and also the process of getting towed (pulled behind another vehicle) Sunday evening with my parking lights and flashers on, plus brake lights?
I ran through the checks for all those sensors as shown in the factory service manual, and they all checked out okay. The tests were basically just checking for continuity across the sensors at the wiring harness plug on the outside of the distributor cap. All came back fine.
I got a fuel pressure testing kit today and will be checking it this evening. Also I took my battery in to get checked, and it indicated 195 CCA at 12.4 volts. However I’m guessing it’s not fully charged as it will not turn over my starter at the moment. I believe one of Eric’s videos said the battery needs to be fully charged in order to test it? So would the 195 CCA indicate the battery is bad or is it not possible to know in its current state?
