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Just as a quick update since I haven’t been here in awhile: sure enough that Cardone Select distributor took a dump on me last year, just over 3.5 years after installing it originally. It actually exhibited drivability issues in the weeks before, such as bucking that I thought was the clutch slipping. But it turned out to be the distributor.
Finally one day (coincidentally) the little plastic pad on the clutch pedal that presses the clutch interlock switch broke apart, so I had to reach under the dash and push the switch to start the car. Then I was driving up a hill, tried opening the throttle more, and the engine hesitated and bucked more and more until it died, while in the middle of a 2 lane road on a hill. And I had to reach under the dash and find that switch to start it again. I managed to get it started and limped home. I messed with the distributor, cap and wires a bit, and then it wouldn’t start at all, so I figured that was the problem. Got it replaced under warranty and all was good once again.
Hey guys I know this is super old and we don’t even have the Corolla anymore, but I figured I would add the solution in case anyone comes across this in a search.
The culprit ended up being a clogged EGR pipe between the intake manifold and the EGR valve. It wasn’t the EGR valve itself or the VSV or modulator or any of that stuff. It was simply carbon buildup in the pipe underneath the vacuum modulator. When I cleaned that out (it was tough), all was good once again.
So I acquired a vacuum test gauge and tried the VSV test procedures described in the Motor.com PDF articles and also in the Just Answer link above. Both VSV’s (original and the one I just got off eBay) both failed both tests. I suppose that’s the culprit.
When I apply vacuum to the inlet port of the VSV, no vacuum registers on the outlet port (on either one). When I blow air through the outlet port, air comes out the filter normally. But when the VSV is energized, no air comes out of the inlet port (on either one).
So I acquired a vacuum test gauge and tried the VSV test procedures described in the Motor.com PDF articles and also in the Just Answer link above. Both VSV’s (original and the one I just got off eBay) both failed both tests. I suppose that’s the culprit.
When I apply vacuum to the inlet port of the VSV, no vacuum registers on the outlet port (on either one). When I blow air through the outlet port, air comes out the filter normally. But when the VSV is energized, no air comes out of the inlet port (on either one).
Ah yes, I think I actually have a pair of those pliers, bought some years ago but I never ended up using it.
Ah yes, I think I actually have a pair of those pliers, bought some years ago but I never ended up using it.
So I just did a compression test with engine at operating temp. 94 GS-R B18C1 with 329,000 miles.
First Test – – – Second Test
Cyl. 1 – 237 – – – 249
Cyl. 2 – 235 – – – 242
Cyl. 3 – 267
Cyl. 4 – 267I started second guessing my test of the first 2 cylinders which is why I tested those a second time.
Factory spec says nominal compression should be 270 with a maximum variation of 28. Max variation between cyl 2 (2nd test) and cyl 3 (1st test) is 25. So it looks like it’s not really very conclusive.
Unfortunately there are no parts stores in town that can rent out a leakdown tester. I can buy one at Harbor Freight for $40, so I’m trying to decide if I even need to bother with that test or just go ahead and pull the head and replace the HG.
So I just did a compression test with engine at operating temp. 94 GS-R B18C1 with 329,000 miles.
First Test – – – Second Test
Cyl. 1 – 237 – – – 249
Cyl. 2 – 235 – – – 242
Cyl. 3 – 267
Cyl. 4 – 267I started second guessing my test of the first 2 cylinders which is why I tested those a second time.
Factory spec says nominal compression should be 270 with a maximum variation of 28. Max variation between cyl 2 (2nd test) and cyl 3 (1st test) is 25. So it looks like it’s not really very conclusive.
Unfortunately there are no parts stores in town that can rent out a leakdown tester. I can buy one at Harbor Freight for $40, so I’m trying to decide if I even need to bother with that test or just go ahead and pull the head and replace the HG.
Just depends on the part. For 90’s Hondas with double-wishbone front suspension, the upper ball joints are not sold separately from the control arms unless you go with POS crappy aftermarket. Tie rod ball joints are also integral with the steering outer tie rods. Lower ball joints, on pretty much all cars, are definitely replaceable by themselves and IMHO would be a huge waste of money and parts to replace the entire lower control arm.
Just depends on the part. For 90’s Hondas with double-wishbone front suspension, the upper ball joints are not sold separately from the control arms unless you go with POS crappy aftermarket. Tie rod ball joints are also integral with the steering outer tie rods. Lower ball joints, on pretty much all cars, are definitely replaceable by themselves and IMHO would be a huge waste of money and parts to replace the entire lower control arm.
Still haven’t run the compression or leak down tests yet.
I put the coolant pressure tester back on the radiator today, pumped it up to 16 PSI and let it sit. 3+ hours later it’s down to 14 PSI. So it’s losing pressure but verrrrry slowly.
My theory is there is a breach in the HG but only very small, such that residual pressure in the cooling system after driving the car and cooling down, forces small amounts of coolant into one of the cylinders, which then gets burned off when the car is first started the next day. But then for some reason it doesn’t seem to burn any after the car is up to temperature.
