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It all depends on usage-
If used often, cheap isn’t the way to go. As time goes by one will develop a preference for certain items, and I guarantee they won’t all come from one source…It all depends on usage-
If used often, cheap isn’t the way to go. As time goes by one will develop a preference for certain items, and I guarantee they won’t all come from one source…I love mine! It is the only one that beat my old Sioux, and it doesn’t need power robbing grease.
I love mine! It is the only one that beat my old Sioux, and it doesn’t need power robbing grease.
I just picked up the Snap-On ball joint press. Kinda spendy, but I’ve used the heck out of it…
I just picked up the Snap-On ball joint press. Kinda spendy, but I’ve used the heck out of it…
What you describe sounds fine to me given that you’re approaching 100,000 miles. I would say something about your manifold vacuum in/Hg, but not knowing anything about the replacement cam I’m unable to comment. Enjoy the Q-jet howl!
What you describe sounds fine to me given that you’re approaching 100,000 miles. I would say something about your manifold vacuum in/Hg, but not knowing anything about the replacement cam I’m unable to comment. Enjoy the Q-jet howl!
Two things come to mind: impeller damaged by heat; leaks in the system (exhaust &/or intake. Hook up a boost gauge and see what you get…
More likely, it is a leak on the compressor side. It could be a hole in one of the rubber hoses, or there could be a hole in the ATA cooler if so equipped. I’m inclined to think it’s a leak because, as you pointed out -the truck begins to smoke. If it isn’t equipped with ATA after-cooling look at the air intake hoses and inspect for oil soaked, softened hoses -old, soft hoses can collapse. If there is a soft hose, it can collapse causing a restriction between the air cleaner and turbo resulting in loss of power and excessive smoke (unburned fuel).One more thing to consider, and it does cause changes in sound -the waste gate (if so equipped)
Two things come to mind: impeller damaged by heat; leaks in the system (exhaust &/or intake. Hook up a boost gauge and see what you get…
More likely, it is a leak on the compressor side. It could be a hole in one of the rubber hoses, or there could be a hole in the ATA cooler if so equipped. I’m inclined to think it’s a leak because, as you pointed out -the truck begins to smoke. If it isn’t equipped with ATA after-cooling look at the air intake hoses and inspect for oil soaked, softened hoses -old, soft hoses can collapse. If there is a soft hose, it can collapse causing a restriction between the air cleaner and turbo resulting in loss of power and excessive smoke (unburned fuel).One more thing to consider, and it does cause changes in sound -the waste gate (if so equipped)
TINSTAAFL There is no such thing as a free lunch
Change the gear lube and be happy. The closest thing to maintenance free that I know of is a lease!
TINSTAAFL There is no such thing as a free lunch
Change the gear lube and be happy. The closest thing to maintenance free that I know of is a lease!
I would get a new battery. Two things are fatal to batteries: extreme cold and extreme heat. Heat also effects alternators just as it does any sensitive electrical component. Too much heat and something has to give …maybe a diode. Anyway, spring for a battery and be done with it.
I would get a new battery. Two things are fatal to batteries: extreme cold and extreme heat. Heat also effects alternators just as it does any sensitive electrical component. Too much heat and something has to give …maybe a diode. Anyway, spring for a battery and be done with it.
’84 was the last year of the Duraspark IIRC. Those were reliable and either worked, or didn’t. If you are sure beyond doubt you’ve got good ground connections, check the ignition switch. The only other ground on the D/S I can think of is in the distributor itself and has nothing in common with the blower or lights.
A quick test might be as simple as running a jumper wire from the major components (engine block/body/battery)then starting the engine and turning the lights on. If it continues to run, it most definitely is a faulty ground.
Another quick test can be run with a timing light. Start the engine and hook the lead to the coil wire,turn the lights on while watching the strobe. If the strobe quits slightly before the engine dies, it is an ignition failure. If the strobe flashes while the engine dies, look elsewhere…
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