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The Matco man told me I could mail in my broken tools. I told him that wasn’t the deal I made in 1979.
This is my scanner.The Matco man told me I could mail in my broken tools. I told him that wasn’t the deal I made in 1979.
This is my scanner.Pick ’em up and get a feel. Your bare hand can’t tell you if it’s great tool steel, but it will give you an idea as to the fit & finish. If the tools feel good and have some heft, they probably are decent.
Pick ’em up and get a feel. Your bare hand can’t tell you if it’s great tool steel, but it will give you an idea as to the fit & finish. If the tools feel good and have some heft, they probably are decent.
Check the large ground wires first:
-battery cable to block
-block to body
You could tack on accessory ground wires just for testing purposes…Check the large ground wires first:
-battery cable to block
-block to body
You could tack on accessory ground wires just for testing purposes…[quote=”yanbros” post=111096] My ride is a 2006 Mazda 2 with about 168k km on it.currently it is using fully syntetic 5w40 engine oil. The engine oil viscosity was not recommended in the user’s manual. I’m think of changing to Pennzoil ultra 5w30 which is the recommended oil from the user’s manual. Question is, there are so many types of oil recommended in the manual. Which is the best Oil for my climate and type of driving? I live in a humid environment and average ambient temperature is around high 20s to mid 30s degrees Celsius. My commute to work is less than 25km and I do plenty of short distance drives, stop and go kind if driving. My lifters are also producing a tickig noise when cold, I’m thinking that its wearing out fast. I do an oil change every 10000km. Seeking advice from you experts out there. Thanks.[/quote]
I don’t think it matters because:
-high mileage
-the lifters are already noisy
-it is 8 years old.
5W-40 is a good choice for your environment, and you’ve chosen a synthetic which was wise. What you didn’t do as stated by barneyb, was change oil often enough. I would try some 5W-30 at your next scheduled change, but if the same noise continues I would happily stick with the synthetic 5W-40. On the other hand, you might see a decrease in fuel consumption with the lighter oil, or you might hear more noise…
IDK, but I can tell you this -I’ve been running 15W-40 in my 3.0L Toyota for over 20 years without issue. This engine was subject to a head gasket recall, and at 90,000 miles it still looked new and had cross hatch in the upper cylinders. It is running strong today with twice the mileage.[quote=”yanbros” post=111096] My ride is a 2006 Mazda 2 with about 168k km on it.currently it is using fully syntetic 5w40 engine oil. The engine oil viscosity was not recommended in the user’s manual. I’m think of changing to Pennzoil ultra 5w30 which is the recommended oil from the user’s manual. Question is, there are so many types of oil recommended in the manual. Which is the best Oil for my climate and type of driving? I live in a humid environment and average ambient temperature is around high 20s to mid 30s degrees Celsius. My commute to work is less than 25km and I do plenty of short distance drives, stop and go kind if driving. My lifters are also producing a tickig noise when cold, I’m thinking that its wearing out fast. I do an oil change every 10000km. Seeking advice from you experts out there. Thanks.[/quote]
I don’t think it matters because:
-high mileage
-the lifters are already noisy
-it is 8 years old.
5W-40 is a good choice for your environment, and you’ve chosen a synthetic which was wise. What you didn’t do as stated by barneyb, was change oil often enough. I would try some 5W-30 at your next scheduled change, but if the same noise continues I would happily stick with the synthetic 5W-40. On the other hand, you might see a decrease in fuel consumption with the lighter oil, or you might hear more noise…
IDK, but I can tell you this -I’ve been running 15W-40 in my 3.0L Toyota for over 20 years without issue. This engine was subject to a head gasket recall, and at 90,000 miles it still looked new and had cross hatch in the upper cylinders. It is running strong today with twice the mileage.[quote=”Tedybear315″ post=111033] Usually the fluid dumps so fast that all line pressure “vanishes” including the torque converter’s ability to spin the input shaft. It’s not exactly healthy for it[/quote]
I think this is spot on. If you didn’t rev or idle the engine for any extended amount of time without transmission fluid, you have a good chance of saving the unit. If you did, the front pump was running dry and the story will likely be different.
[quote=”Tedybear315″ post=111033] Usually the fluid dumps so fast that all line pressure “vanishes” including the torque converter’s ability to spin the input shaft. It’s not exactly healthy for it[/quote]
I think this is spot on. If you didn’t rev or idle the engine for any extended amount of time without transmission fluid, you have a good chance of saving the unit. If you did, the front pump was running dry and the story will likely be different.
[quote=”ainokea96744″ post=109997]
My question is for you professionals what is the better choice for overall versatility, 3/8 wrench,3/8 impact or 1/2 impact. I will shortly get them all but at the moment can only afford one. The types of jobs I’m doing at home is brakes and suspension.[/quote]IMHO your first impact should be a 1/2″ gun. You’re sure to use this puppy even if you do nothing more than change the blade on your lawn mower. I would look for something like the 18v DeWalt so often praised on this forum. I am not fond of 110v tools that will see use out in the elements, under wet cars, etc, etc.
[quote=”ainokea96744″ post=109997]
My question is for you professionals what is the better choice for overall versatility, 3/8 wrench,3/8 impact or 1/2 impact. I will shortly get them all but at the moment can only afford one. The types of jobs I’m doing at home is brakes and suspension.[/quote]IMHO your first impact should be a 1/2″ gun. You’re sure to use this puppy even if you do nothing more than change the blade on your lawn mower. I would look for something like the 18v DeWalt so often praised on this forum. I am not fond of 110v tools that will see use out in the elements, under wet cars, etc, etc.
[quote=”kt14328″ post=110075]I am a firm believer that some tools don’t need to be Snap-on, Mac, Matco. [/quote]
No, they don’t. Anything facing the daily grind has got to be good, or it won’t be in your tool box for long and it won’t save you $.
[quote=”kt14328″ post=110075]I am a firm believer that some tools don’t need to be Snap-on, Mac, Matco. [/quote]
No, they don’t. Anything facing the daily grind has got to be good, or it won’t be in your tool box for long and it won’t save you $.
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=110460] I recommend replacement over rebuild for best results.
Good luck and keep us posted.[/quote]
I think we have two worthwhile machine shops left in my area that service/refinish blocks & heads (if you’ve got a good core to work with). Rebuilding an engine is almost a thing of the past with crate engines so readily available.
