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Thanks for the advice guys. I just decided to get the intake gaskets replaced. I was having a hard time finding time to do them so I went and talked to the mechanics class at the school that I go too. They did it for the price of the parts and since the auto collision shop is right next to the mechanics shop I was able to hit pop in once in a while and check it out. So far no more leaks and it runs good so I have some more time to make plans for her later.
The guy that did it said that the gaskets weren’t in bad shape at all but rather it was the bead of silicone used on the valley of the block that failed. I thought that was kinda interesting. Either way the home intake got cleaned and fresh gaskets so I’m happy with it. I generally don’t let other people do work on my cars but the teacher is a family friend and I was able to check up on it so I took the chance.
well in some ways you are right I do want to put a new motor in it we plan on doing it sooner or later anyway. but then again also like you said doing just the gasket is a lot cheaper and direct fix. it does run good. I have to put a little more than a quart of oil in it every 3000 miles and I know the oil cooler lines leak which I plan on replacing on the next oil change.
I just dont want to replace the gasket and then turn around and put a motor in it soon after if that makes sense.
If I do the gasket then it will be a lot sooner fix rather than later. if I just put a motor in it then it will be a while while I save up to either do it myself or have a shop do it.
Im just looking for different thoughts and advice to weigh out my options.
so in case anyone is wondering the problem has been solved. after doing my own diagnosis I had decided that the solenoid had went bad, but since I didnt want to be wrong I let the shop do there diagnosing as well. the technician had it for a week ( i dont know how much he actually worked on it in that time period) they told me that he even came in on saturday and sunday to try and figure it all out.
all said and done it turns out it was the wiring harness inside the transmission that powers the solenoids and all that good stuff. so In a way my diagnosis was half right in that the tcc pwm solenoid circuit was not in spec and not working correct, however it was not the solenoid that was the problem. the shop put a new harness in under warranty and didnt charge me a dime. the truck now shifts really smooth and drives a lot better so it all worked out well in the end. thanks for your help and contribution I really appreciate it!
I actually came across that article earlier it helped me some. This morning I used my new multimeter (ya I’m actually kind of excited about it) to test the solenoid resistance and amps on the plug of the transmission
As per my diagnosis paper I should have roughly 1 amp draw on the brown wire with the key on, red pcm plug disconnected. I couldn’t get any amp reading off it. So I checked voltage just for fun and I have .2 of a volt. The paper also says it should have roughly 15-20 ohms resistance from the power wire that feeds the solenoids to the brown wire with the key on. It would only read 1 or infinity.
So I think it’s safe to say it’s the solenoid. Unless someone has something to add to it? I just don’t want to say replace the solenoid and end up shooting myself in the foot.
Oh I forgot some important info. The truck does seem to heat up really fast. And the fan comes on at about 212 and off at 199.
I get the readings from my scan gauge
for anyone that may have been wondering, what had happened was that the shift linkage had worn out on the inside of the transmission. because it was wore out it aloud the linkage to move from where it should have been and it got caught on a lip inside the transmission, this is why it would not shift out of park. I have not seen the exact setup it has but this makes sense.
they tried to replace it without pulling the transmission but they decided that they would not beable to. So we both agreed to just have them pull the transmission and rebuild it while they were in there. the transmission to my knowledge didnt have any major issues with it, I do know that the 1-2 shift seemed soft and it made kind of a whistle sound sometimes when shifting from 1-2. kind of like when liquid is being pushed through a small space or restricted space if that makes any sense.
My other thought was that with 230, some odd thousand miles it probably wouldnt hurt, plus it would hopefully be good insurance for later. he quoted me $1200 to do it which I didnt think was to bad.
I towed it to a reputable transmission shop today. I dont feel like I could of kept it as clean as it would need to be plus this way if I cant fix it I am not putting fluid back in it just to have it not work. that would be a good idea though if I knew a little more
well mysteriously the leak has went away and hasnt come back. I checked everything out the best I could but its kinda hard now. so I have just been watching it pretty close. I have only been driveing it about 4 miles a day to school. I dont want to just throw parts at it so I think Ill just watch it close for a while
ok. this is what I have done. we bled all 4 brakes again for good measure. we checked all the hard ware and made sure everything was tight and leak free.
it didnt change anything. I clamped the rubber lines one at a time and think there maybe something to that. I have replced the passenger side rubber line but not the driver or the rear rubber ones. with the line clamped off my wife said the pedal didnt feel any different. however I could feel the line swell. with my vice grips just touching the outer hose the driver side deffinatley swelled more than the newer passenger side. and the rear was about the same as the driver side so there is something to be said there that I would probably bennefit from replacing the lines.
also is it normal for the line to move when the brake pedal is pressed?? once again the rear and driver side moved more than the newer passenger side. just for kicks I made sure I wasnt losing vaccuum or anything at the booster. and the check valve is working as well.
the last thing I found is that if you press down on the master cylinder a little you can hear air come out is that normal?? also I am not sure if my friend spilled a little fluid when topping the mc off but where the reservoir meets the master cylinder was wet like they may have been leaking???? I really hope freakin not its new!! not rebuilt!!
Oh hey cool! sorry I didnt know that you had done that. I love your videos they are a great help and I always learn something I wish I had more time to watch them. Thanks eric!
ok sorry for the late post. I got off work yesterday went to the shop and went to bed when I got back home afterwards. I am also sorry about the confusion I had my deffinitions wrong. with the steering wheel straight it would drive to the right after the new gear box ( it went left before with the slop in the old gear box) after the first allignment it went left again so they did it again working untill after they closed to figure it out. It was the exact same everytime the caster and camber was in spec but the toe was always off in the opposite direction.
Anyway after about 5 or 6 times on the rack it was still doing the same thing. they double checked all the suspension parts and they were all good too. finally the tech alligned it with the wheel just slightly off center to compensate for the over shooting toe issue. and the result was with the steering wheel straight the truck drives mostly straight but follows the curve of the road. ( if Im on the right side of the road and its slanted a good amount it wanders right some. and same with the left side) this is better than the truck has ever driven since I have owned it.
I think that I will take it back in one of these days before my 30 day alignment runs out as a 30 day alignment cost me $90 is that normal? and if nothing else just double check it all. I am slightly suspicous as to why it would have to be aligned with the wheel off center?? mechanical or human? I asked for a pirintoff of the numbers but their printer just happen to be down but It is on file and I can go back and get it when their printer is working again.
I have heard that a alignment specific shop is generally better than going to a tire/ mechanic/alignment shop is there truth to this Im just curious.
I am always wiling to learn and I really appreciate the help!!
for the most part it drives straight if I leave the steering wheel alone. I checked all the bearings, ball joints, tie rods and all that stuff today and everything was as it should be. I looked over the frame pretty good and i didnt see any cracks.
I took it to get an allignment check and it was a little off. not terrible but off. so I went ahead and had them align it, after they got done a paid and headed out. and almost immediatly instead of going right with the steering wheel straight it went left. so less than a mile down the road I turned around and went back. they looked at it again and really took there time even though they closed. I watched both times. and after the second time it was the exact opposite it went right again with the steering wheel straight. we checked all the tie rods and pitman arm. nothing is loose we are both very confused and I have another appointment on friday.
the only thing that I can come up with is that when I put the pitman arm back on it did not fit flush on the gear box however from my understanding the gear box is tapered so with shouldnt fit all the way is that correct? I tightened the piss out of it when I put it on though.
anyone have any ideas?
I will check the bearings probably tomorrow, but they shouldnt be bad as both sides have less than 15,000 miles on them but it never hurts to check thanks
I agree check your battery, alternator and all connections. My mom has a 96 jeep cherokee that the battery was shot so we replaced it and a week later it wouldnt start becuase the battery was dead. so we figured alternator. just for kicks I checked the connections and it turned out that the battery terminal was tight but was so corroded that it couldnt get the right voltage. It doesnt sound like a real serious problem just a little diagnosing. good luck! let us know.
I agree with thisisbuod. motor oil has become one of those things that is whatever works for you. as long as it meets the manufacture specs it should be just fine. personally I like using valvoline conventional 5w30 in the winter and 10w30 in the summer with a nappa gold oil filter in my 1996 chevy k1500 and I use the factory viscosity and nappa gold with all my cars. is it the best heck if I know but it works for me. I think you should be fine like I said long as it meets the specs which from my understanding most oils do now. I dont have much experience with Hondas though. I hope all goes well!