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[quote=”creativepotato” post=159412]Are they kicking on normally at idle without driving the car or are they turning on when you’re driving on the street when it’s 0ºF out? In my experience in the northeast during winter, my fans never came on unless I was idle in line at mcdonalds for 5 minutes, and that’s pushing it. It almost sounds like your fans are kicking on prematurely, bringing in cold air then cooling your system before they should. If that’s the case however, it’s extending the longevity of your transmission and engine as long your oils are fresh and the correct viscosity. There’s an underlying issue here (as Eric would say – I think that’s what he says, ha). Let’s see how the cap does. Why did you go to the dealership for that anyway? Third-party OEM radiator caps are perfectly fine.[/quote]
I have had good luck with the ones from the dealer. The ones at Advance are like $9 or ao. The one at the dealer is $14. So the cost is neglible.I have a 3160d. I will get some reading tomorrow and see where it’s at temp wise. The overflow has not overflowed and ran out yet.
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Yes that is what is driving me crazy. Both hoses going to the heater core and the thermostat housing measure 130F max. At idle tonight after idling for 20 minutes I was measuring the temps with the laser temp gauge the fans kicked on. When they did I measured it again and still right at 130F. I do not see any leaks even placed a piece of cardboard under the engine to try to pinpoint leaks and a few drops of Transmission fluid were on the cardboard under the transmission pan. Which I am swapping the filter and fluids on that this weekend. And it’s like 2 drops of transmission fluid after being under there 20 minutes.
The temperature gauge is not reading above about 25% on the dash. The thermostat is 195F.
There is no coolant coming out of the radiator cap.
The thermostat has been installed with the spring in the engine and the jiggler valve is in the up position. I have bled the system by leaving the cap off and letting the car idle while squeezing the upper hose. The reservoir is full to a little above the full cold line. I have checked the reservoir hose for obstructions.
So with all of this happening it has me off on what I think it is. That is why I am at a loss and came here to ask for assistance. I have pretty much ran through everything I know.
Yeah I was curious about that but they kick on like they normally would and run for a minute or so and then go off and they don’t come back on for a few minutes. I am also figuring that the radiator isn’t the issue because the car would overheat. But when the upper hose doesn’t get above 80-90F it makes me wonder if it is not stopped up. But if it was stopped up then I would think it would start to get hotter than a quarter of the way up on the temp gauge while driving. Also I got thinking about the coolant temp sensor but if that wasn’t working I don’t think the car would signal to turn the fans on and my heat should work since the coolant would be up to temp the reading on the dash would be wrong. So I have put a bunch of thought into this.
Yeah at about 130F they kick on and run a cycle like they normally would and then turn off. The thermostat is a 195F thermostat (which is the OEM rating) so it is like the car is kicking the fans on and the thermostat will not open because it never gets near the 195F temperature. But the car does not over heat it actually never gets half way up on the gauge it is more like a quarter of the way up on the gauge.
And I have bled the system with leaving the cap off and running the car for a while and let it cycle through the system. I have filled the overflow up and turned the heater to hot but not turned the blower on and I have tried it with it on after it would not get up to temp. I have let it idle and the fans come on. I have increased the throttle and the fans have came on.
So its like the car never gets up to temp to allow the thermostat to open. Which like I said that throws me off that the car never gets to temp but the fans kick in. So I will replace the radiator cap and also use the old one and peel the bottom gasket off and try to purge the system that way. But you would think if the fans come on then the car would be overheating.
The reservoir looks fine. I actually took it and the hose off the car last weekend and made sure that was good and clean. The inside of the radiator cap looked good too, not much sludge.
I was actually going to head to Lowe’s tomorrow and pick up some clear lines and hose fitting. Pick up some radiator flush and flush the heater core and remove the thermostat and run some radiator flush through the system and fill it will all new coolant.
I have looked around Neons.org a little bit but will check it out again later.
The thing throwing me off was the fans kicking on even when the car wasn’t up to temp.
There was no heat prior to the thermostat replacement. So I am not sure if it is air or not. I watched that video you posted and will try to figure this out tomorrow. We just got a bunch of snow and ice over the last few days. It all melted today.
I checked the temp of both hoses with and without the heat/blower running and both hoses are about 130F. So that is why I am kind of counting the heater core out of the issue. When taking the reading I was within inches of the hoses. The upper radiator hose was only about 80F. The thermostat housing itself was around 130F.
My son has a 2002 Sentra GXE that was my wife’s car that we held on to for the kids to drive while in high school. We have done quite a bit of work to this car over the years and seeing those videos about the Sentra sparked my interest and then specifically seeing this video was great. We have to do this to his Sentra when it warms up. The rack is leaking about a half quart a day from the boot on the passenger side. I have already bought a refurbished rack and tie rods for it. I have a friend who is an ASE certified mechanic offered to do it for $100 in his free time which means it could be one day or 2 weeks just basically drop it off and when he gets time he gets time. It’s well worth paying someone $100 to do it but I am not sure my son could be without his car for an extended period of time. So after watching this video it solidified me not wanting to do it personally.
All temps are F. I actually ordered a radiator cap at the dealer and have yet to pick it up. I will probably pick that up tomorrow. But I can say the radiator cap is a pain to remove. When you twist it, it is like it hangs up. Then after the initial twist you have to press and turn and its almost like it doesn’t want to turn so I was thinking about the cap too.
The overflow has coolant in it. I had it to the full cold line and let it run tonight for about 20 minutes and it would never get up to temp. I am going to replace that cap tomorrow and see where we are at with it.