[W]

Thanks for your input Ukrkoz.

I did see tapered wear on the old pads, but that was expected given the contact patch visible on the old rotors. The calipers, pins, bushings, rotors and pads .. everything was replaced less than 6 months ago, and yet the rust pattern persists. But will confirm if tapering exists on the current pads tonight.

I believe a new bracket was included with the new caliper? It’s been 2 months since I’ve taken it aapart last. I wanted to see if the wear pattern changed. (I’m still new to this, so please, take my assumptions with a grain of salt :o)

So assuming (see?) all parts are new (Pads, rotors, calipers, bushings/pins – came with semi-loaded calipers, but lubed with silicon paste anyway), I’m baffled as to what could be causing it.

My 2 remaining suspects are:

1) Maybe I’ve lost or damaged a shim?

2) Other – including a wheel bearing or ball joint, but I’ve seen conflicting answers on whether either can have any effect. I know there’s clearly one right answer, but until ETCG says it, I’m really hesitant which to believe.

No issues at all on the other 3 wheels. Installed and functioning perfectly from day one.

[W]

Thanks for your input Ukrkoz.

I did see tapered wear on the old pads, but that was expected given the contact patch visible on the old rotors. The calipers, pins, bushings, rotors and pads .. everything was replaced less than 6 months ago, and yet the rust pattern persists. But will confirm if tapering exists on the current pads tonight.

I believe a new bracket was included with the new caliper? It’s been 2 months since I’ve taken it aapart last. I wanted to see if the wear pattern changed. (I’m still new to this, so please, take my assumptions with a grain of salt :o)

So assuming (see?) all parts are new (Pads, rotors, calipers, bushings/pins – came with semi-loaded calipers, but lubed with silicon paste anyway), I’m baffled as to what could be causing it.

My 2 remaining suspects are:

1) Maybe I’ve lost or damaged a shim?

2) Other – including a wheel bearing or ball joint, but I’ve seen conflicting answers on whether either can have any effect. I know there’s clearly one right answer, but until ETCG says it, I’m really hesitant which to believe.

No issues at all on the other 3 wheels. Installed and functioning perfectly from day one.

[W]

Thanks Mod. I’ve been through both sections, without much luck isolating.

I’m thinking this through methodically. Assuming there was front-end trauma, what else could have been impacted that would affect braking after the calipers, slide pins, rotors and pads were all replaced with new?

Unfortunately, I can only guess at the next sequence of steps one might perform. I know this isn’t rocket science, there has to be something I’m missing.

[W]

Thanks Mod. I’ve been through both sections, without much luck isolating.

I’m thinking this through methodically. Assuming there was front-end trauma, what else could have been impacted that would affect braking after the calipers, slide pins, rotors and pads were all replaced with new?

Unfortunately, I can only guess at the next sequence of steps one might perform. I know this isn’t rocket science, there has to be something I’m missing.

[W]

Valvoline gurus:

1) We often see oil values written as 5w30, or 10w30. It was once explained to me that these are viscosity values (units unknown) for 0°C and 100°C (freezing and boiling points of water). Is this accurate?

2) Which matters more? ‘Honey’ coloured oil, or viscosity breakdown? I ask because I’ve changed oil and it still looks pristine, like honey. Other times, the oil is black after 3000m/5000km, and I feel I should be changing it sooner. (Different cars)

Is there a hard and fast rule here? I know the black in oil is generally attributed to carbon deposit/washing, and should be changed. If after 3000 miles, the oil still appears golden, is it safe to squeeze another 1000mi out of it? Or is there degradation we can’t see that should be considered?

Thank you!!

[W]

Valvoline gurus:

1) We often see oil values written as 5w30, or 10w30. It was once explained to me that these are viscosity values (units unknown) for 0°C and 100°C (freezing and boiling points of water). Is this accurate?

2) Which matters more? ‘Honey’ coloured oil, or viscosity breakdown? I ask because I’ve changed oil and it still looks pristine, like honey. Other times, the oil is black after 3000m/5000km, and I feel I should be changing it sooner. (Different cars)

Is there a hard and fast rule here? I know the black in oil is generally attributed to carbon deposit/washing, and should be changed. If after 3000 miles, the oil still appears golden, is it safe to squeeze another 1000mi out of it? Or is there degradation we can’t see that should be considered?

Thank you!!

[Author]

Replies