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Thank you for your reply Eric. I will replace it. But not the water pump (unless bearing seal is bad). I will replace the water pump on the next timing belt change (in 5 years).
Just one correction of my previous post. I have checked, and it turns out that the timing belt on Yugo was changed after all.
Thank you for your reply Eric. I will replace it. But not the water pump (unless bearing seal is bad). I will replace the water pump on the next timing belt change (in 5 years).
Just one correction of my previous post. I have checked, and it turns out that the timing belt on Yugo was changed after all.
Actually, they reduced the time interval to 4 years (Reno dealer in Serbia, not Reno itself), but I remember that it used to be 5 years.
I mean, my family has cars that are much older and much less quality than Reno, that still run without timing belts ever changed.
One of them is Zastava 101 with 55 hp Fiat engine, that is over 25 years old (don’t remember exactly). Still runs, timing belt never changed. Has about 50-60.000 km or so (don’t remember).
Other one is Zastava Yugo 55 with domestic DMB engine. Zastava had lots of financial problems (losing money instead of earning by selling cars, state had to subsidies it so people would keep their jobs), and the factory was destroyed by NATO in 1999, so the quality of materials used is even worse than in Chinese cars. I do not remember how old it is, but it is few years older than Sandero, and it has around 70.000 km and timing belt was never changed. Still runs, and it is driven in relatively high RPM.And my opinion is that timing belts are used instead of chains to rip people off. Because car manufactarors earn much more money on selling spare parts than on selling cars.
So, you know…
Actually, they reduced the time interval to 4 years (Reno dealer in Serbia, not Reno itself), but I remember that it used to be 5 years.
I mean, my family has cars that are much older and much less quality than Reno, that still run without timing belts ever changed.
One of them is Zastava 101 with 55 hp Fiat engine, that is over 25 years old (don’t remember exactly). Still runs, timing belt never changed. Has about 50-60.000 km or so (don’t remember).
Other one is Zastava Yugo 55 with domestic DMB engine. Zastava had lots of financial problems (losing money instead of earning by selling cars, state had to subsidies it so people would keep their jobs), and the factory was destroyed by NATO in 1999, so the quality of materials used is even worse than in Chinese cars. I do not remember how old it is, but it is few years older than Sandero, and it has around 70.000 km and timing belt was never changed. Still runs, and it is driven in relatively high RPM.And my opinion is that timing belts are used instead of chains to rip people off. Because car manufactarors earn much more money on selling spare parts than on selling cars.
So, you know…
If the LED driver is designed correctly and if thermal design is also done properly, LED should last a long long time. But, if not, they will fail a lot sooner than claimed. The problem is that LEDs do not emit infrared-red light (basically heat), so all of that heat is concentrated in the little PN junction and it is difficult to cool.
HID is self-cooling, since it emits heat away from itself, but it is sensitive to ON/OFF cycles (unlike LEDs).
If the LED driver is designed correctly and if thermal design is also done properly, LED should last a long long time. But, if not, they will fail a lot sooner than claimed. The problem is that LEDs do not emit infrared-red light (basically heat), so all of that heat is concentrated in the little PN junction and it is difficult to cool.
HID is self-cooling, since it emits heat away from itself, but it is sensitive to ON/OFF cycles (unlike LEDs).
I used to drive this car with a slipping clutch for months before replacing it. It was slipping a lot so in 1st gear I had to press the gas pedal to almost 1/2 in order to start moving.
I used to drive this car with a slipping clutch for months before replacing it. It was slipping a lot so in 1st gear I had to press the gas pedal to almost 1/2 in order to start moving.
Make sure that soldering iron tip is chisel type (in the shape of little chisel, like 2-3 mm wide or so). The awl/spike shaped ones are no good.
Bare in mind that tips on cheap soldering irons are expendable, they wear out. So either buy spare tips, or buy good quality iron. If you are buying good quality one, make sure it has PTC heater element.
Also, those cheap irons that claim that are 50 W, for example, are not even close to that. You don’t need that much power for electronics (especially SMD), you can burn everything up.For soldering, 350 oC iron is good, but it in not so good for desoldering. So, for you 450 oC iron will do fine (and about 25 W).
Solder wise, get leaded one. Unleaded is so much harder to work with. Get the thinest one you can. Of course, it needs to contain flux (but practically all of them do).
Also, when getting solder wick, get the one that also contains flux.
And buy some no-clean flux as well (liquid one, in the pen tipe case). Flux is a mild acid that cleans the pads of corrosion and makes soldering much more easier.
When desoldering, since all commercial boards are soldered with unleaded solder (that melts at a higher temperature), you will need (first, apply flux on it) to add some extra solder on the joint in order to have good thermal mass so you can desolder the component (actually heat up the joint) using the solder wick. Otherwise, you will just burn the component.
Make sure that soldering iron tip is chisel type (in the shape of little chisel, like 2-3 mm wide or so). The awl/spike shaped ones are no good.
Bare in mind that tips on cheap soldering irons are expendable, they wear out. So either buy spare tips, or buy good quality iron. If you are buying good quality one, make sure it has PTC heater element.
Also, those cheap irons that claim that are 50 W, for example, are not even close to that. You don’t need that much power for electronics (especially SMD), you can burn everything up.For soldering, 350 oC iron is good, but it in not so good for desoldering. So, for you 450 oC iron will do fine (and about 25 W).
Solder wise, get leaded one. Unleaded is so much harder to work with. Get the thinest one you can. Of course, it needs to contain flux (but practically all of them do).
Also, when getting solder wick, get the one that also contains flux.
And buy some no-clean flux as well (liquid one, in the pen tipe case). Flux is a mild acid that cleans the pads of corrosion and makes soldering much more easier.
When desoldering, since all commercial boards are soldered with unleaded solder (that melts at a higher temperature), you will need (first, apply flux on it) to add some extra solder on the joint in order to have good thermal mass so you can desolder the component (actually heat up the joint) using the solder wick. Otherwise, you will just burn the component.
I could not login yesterday.
Thanks Summer_Night.
Car is not driven hard at all.
I know that “first install” parts (factory parts, OEM,…) are better quality, as you said, so that is the extra reason for not changing the belt yet.
I will tell mechanic to inspect the belt (but without taking it off), and if it is completely dry, no wear and cracks, I will not change it yet.