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How much vacuum is recommended for the bleeding for the abs bleeder screws.?
How much for the front and rear cylinders?
Since i did not have your engineering specs I was left with alot info that was hard to find online I found two that look reliable but hard to tell what to follow when it came to sequence of bleeding this system abs before doing my wheels.
When I started on the front I had printout on the delphi and it says bleed the front bleeders to get a home of the pistons in the abs . Some delphi vi want u to bleed the front bleeder first instead of the rear. But I bleed the rear first on my first try. I tried to pull 15 to 20 bar on it . but i could not squeeze a open end wrench and a vacuum line as tight as I wanted cause of the confined space . .Pcv is recommended replacement it can cause issues with emmission parts make them worn and if they go bad your over heating issues.
maybe u can a make a youtube video of your car . If u got a phone to record the noise that be outstanding .
Yes I was able to home it . I put on the ground drove it in the parking lot of my apartment complex and was able to home it was a sigh of relief after beiing at this for over a day and half and to finally come to end . I spent another day outside with it bleeding for 10 to 12 hours bleeding it I bought harbor frieght pump was pie of shh&&( but work for a liittle I was able to pull 18 to 15 psi on my abs rear bleeder under the bonnet. After that i procedded to bleed the rest of the wheels for several hours . Worked on it into the night too . bUT i HAD FLUID So I knew I was good so I just kept at it .
The instructions for bleeding and homing are both about driving and bleeding two front bleeder screws on the abs and it says the lines but I can just do it from the bleeder on each wheel then .So I just used as much info I could soak up from mechanic I had number too and told me to home it by driving slowly I was using only a handbrake for stopping at 2 to 4 mile per hour.. . Worked great . I think it could use a little more bleeder but Im happy with the brakes I have now I have rear and fronts all working fine . I took it for cruise last night and this morning to go get my shopping done that I had put off to do the mechanic work . I took my inspections today and passed So I can get my new sticker.
I really want to find a better vacuum pump probably make a bleeder bottle for my abs braking system I need something that can pull a vacuum and not leak. Mityvac I did not like it was too flimsy of a pump for real job .This mityvac not a good tool for abs bleeding .I stopped using and started to use my foot brake more reliable. Does anyone have good one I can make with powerade bottle.
A good coolant flush to remove deposits that build and clooging a cooling system can cause overheating .So good flush can fix this issue.
Missing or loose fuel cap – Incorrect fuel filler cap used – Fuel filler cap remains open or fails to close – Foreign matter caught in fuel filler cap – EVAP canister or fuel tank leaks – EVAP system hose leaking – Fuel tank leaking
Watch this video for your car will explain your code and help u fix it.The evap systems is fuel vapors that drawn into the engine for combustion. There is a vapor hose that runs from the gas tank to a canister and to purge solenoid Watch the video you will learn something .
The stall might be vacuum issue.[quote=”Packard93″ post=180679]Like I already told u I bleed the rear in this manner and I was unable to get any fluid. No excuse fluid resovoir is full
bleed screw should do.[/quote]Unable to bleed brake from left rear wheel hub/?????????????????????????Help ??Unable to bleed brake after replacing a wheel cylinder on left rear wheel hub. I was told by numbers forum post that this should of been cut and dry. Was tolld bleeding procedure was to bleed the part once it was installed . After first initial attempt while having a 10mm over the bleeder screw and bleeder hose attached to a bottle Following the autozone bleed procedure for wheel cylinder replacement with a one man bleeder..These steps on replacing wheel cylinder in this video of a napa tech—> https://youtu.be/t8prHUJBHG0 And using this tech advice on bleeding with bleeder bottle —->https://youtu.be/lkd7iq-dIQ0
I tried these steps on replacing the parts listed in video 1 and did video 2 for bleed procedure.
But I still have no fluid released from rear wheel cylinder.
tech 1 in video one quoted saying to me in his response to my question Yes it will be the same procedure.
Car is 1995 sl1 abs delphi viYes Ive I pressure bleeding test on both rear cylinders has provide no results. Im left in non home position right now so I have to work on getting a vacuum pump today and start trying to home it . Im going to put some 20-25 bar on rear with hand pump then Ill move to front to try and get front to move so rears will open .
[quote=”Mechmann” post=180730]Assuming you have no ABS fault light on (amber light), you should be able to bleed the rear brakes. The modulator should be in the home position automatically that will allow bleeding. Are you pressurizing the master cylinder or pumping the brake pedal to force fluid out the rear brake cylinder? You will need to do one or the other to get the fluid moving. One other possibility is the brake hose is corroded and plugged and will not allow fluid to pass through. You could disconnect the hose to see if fluid comes that far in the system. You could also crack the bleeder screw on the opposite brake cylinder to see if fluid comes out. There is also a rear proportioning valve in the system but that should not prevent the rear brakes from being bled. Good luck![/quote]
NO fluid in both rear left and right drums after after pump brake hold release bleeders on both drums . No fluid coming out .NO fluid Im thinking this system has a sequence to follow .There lies thiese things I was told about in school about proportioning valve .
[quote=”Mechmann” post=180728]Did you look at the brake hose? I had a 1993 Chevy pickup that would not bleed the right front caliper. The fitting on the end of the brake hose was so rusted that no brake fluid could get through.[/quote]
Fitting looked normal. I had sprayed pb blaster all over the day before . When i took it apart I saw a clear opening for fluid to pass and no rust .Your abs might be what I have in mine there different abs brakes made by different manufuctures and years make a difference how to perform bleeding procedure. You had to have all data like me to know your system .
[quote=”college man” post=180679]If you replaced the wheel cylinder without draining the system the wheel cylinder
bleed screw should do.[/quote]Unable to bleed brake from left rear wheel hub/?????????????????????????Help ??Unable to bleed brake after replacing a wheel cylinder on left rear wheel hub. I was told by numbers forum post that this should of been cut and dry. Was tolld bleeding procedure was to bleed the part once it was installed . After first initial attempt while having a 10mm over the bleeder screw and bleeder hose attached to a bottle Following the autozone bleed procedure for wheel cylinder replacement with a one man bleeder..These steps on replacing wheel cylinder in this video of a napa tech—> https://youtu.be/t8prHUJBHG0 And using this tech advice on bleeding with bleeder bottle —->https://youtu.be/lkd7iq-dIQ0
I tried these steps on replacing the parts listed in video 1 and did video 2 for bleed procedure.
But I still have no fluid released from rear wheel cylinder.
tech 1 in video one quoted saying to me in his response to my question Yes it will be the same procedure.
Car is 1995 sl1 abs delphi vi[quote=”DaFirnz” post=180688]Unless the ABS modulator was emptied of fluid, or close to, you should be fine.
You can always conventionally bleed the brakes and if there’s still a spongy feel but no air was coming out anymore, go to a local gravel parking lot and create a few ABS braking events. Then go home and rebleed the brakes. Repeat until there is no spongy feel left.[/quote]
Unable to bleed brake from left rear wheel hub/?????????????????????????Help ??Unable to bleed brake after replacing a wheel cylinder on left rear wheel hub. I was told by numbers forum post that this should of been cut and dry. Was tolld bleeding procedure was to bleed the part once it was installed . After first initial attempt while having a 10mm over the bleeder screw and bleeder hose attached to a bottle Following the autozone bleed procedure for wheel cylinder replacement with a one man bleeder..These steps on replacing wheel cylinder in this video of a napa tech—> https://youtu.be/t8prHUJBHG0 And using this tech advice on bleeding with bleeder bottle —->https://youtu.be/lkd7iq-dIQ0
I tried these steps on replacing the parts listed in video 1 and did video 2 for bleed procedure.
But I still have no fluid released from rear wheel cylinder.
tech 1 in video one quoted saying to me in his response to my question Yes it will be the same procedure.
Car is 1995 sl1 abs delphi viCEL CHECK ENGINE RELATED SYMPTOMS WHEN KNOCK SENSORS DETECTS THE FOLLOWING
Knock sensor .The computer adjust ignition timing to be as advanced as possible without resulting in engine knock .First it advances the timing until the engine knocks . Then it retards the timing until the knock goes away . It will then search for the best timing setting for that rpm load temperature and fuel . When it finds the best setting, it stores the information in memory for future drive cycles.Its an adaptive learning to find optimal engine performance.
When the knock sensor detects detonation it will retard the engine timing till engine detonation knock , spark knock , goes away.The relearns the best timing for the fuel by advancing the timing until detonation occurs, then retarding the spark slightly until the detonation stops . . All modern automotive engines have this capabiltiy . Design engineers test an engine on a dynamometer using fuels of different octanes . Different spark advances are tested at various speeds and loads to determine the engines highest torque value.Ignition timing is best when it is advanced to the furthest point without causing detonation . detect bad ignition timing , main bearing knock or piston slap.Detonation can cause the piston to expand too much resulting in cylinder wall scuffing at the four corners of the piston skirts. From the extreme heat the aluminum melts and the piston rings stick to the cylinder wall.
Detonation is a race between the flame front and heat buildup during combustion. The faster the burn is completed , the more immune the engine is to detonation. If the the air fuel mixture burn is completed before the temperture and pressure reach the point of detonation, abnormal combustion will not occur.
Excessive advanced timing can cause ,
excessively retarded ignition timing will cause an engine to overheat but will not burn a piston . Detonantion from overheating , too lean an air fuel mixture air leak into engine cause engine to run lean and overheat . Air fuel mixture to lean .
EGR VALVE FAILING A LEADING SOURCE OF DETONATION testing of egr valve will need to be performed by manually opening valve where knock occurs 1800 to 2000 rpm . If knock goes away egr valve is at fault. To manually open valve .
Older engines, used a air cleaner stuck in the heat on position or a malfunctioning early FUEL EVAP SYSTEM.
A loose sensor bracket or some thing other vibration can also cause the time to be retarded can cause false knock senses. +++++-
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