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Without knowing either person personally, I’ve been able to watch virtually all the episodes from both channel hosts and honestly, there is a reason I’m on Ericthecarguy.com and not the other site, and it has to do with presentation and respect.
While both gentlemen produce auto info advice, I frankly like the explanations Eric gives, the “well, that didn’t work!” moments, and just the way the material is presented here. Kilmer’s show always seemed more like a quick overview, which is fine, but for me it really comes down to which guy would I rather sit around and BS with on a Saturday afternoon over a BBQ and a few cold drinks while working on a project car?
I do find the advice decent on both channels, but I just prefer one style more than the other.
That is a 77-79 Datsun 200SX a.k.a. S10 Silvia in Japan.
The roof line and tail lights are a dead give away, not to mention the horrible U.S. bumpers…
Pretty rare car. I’d buy it.
That is a 77-79 Datsun 200SX a.k.a. S10 Silvia in Japan.
The roof line and tail lights are a dead give away, not to mention the horrible U.S. bumpers…
Pretty rare car. I’d buy it.
First, congratulations on deciding to continue your education. I have never taken formal training from schools as far as mechanics go, as I grew up playing in scrap yards in the 80s and 90s learning on cars that other people had blown up.
Since you have zero automotive experience, i highly suggest grabbing your socket set and some hand tools and go to your local U Pull It or self-service parts recycling center (aka auto junk yard) and spend some time seeing how the basics work. This is by FAR the easiest way to understand where a connecting rod goes, what a camshaft does, and what it takes to pull off an intake. Plus, you’ll get nice and dirty in the process 🙂 You can easily do this on a weekend. Bring a friend with you who may know more and let them walk you through something.
This will get you at least FAMILIAR with automotive structures and how crappy some companies build cars!As for what programs to take, I looked at the link you had provided. It seems that Automotive Technology Comprehensive covers the generalizations in all the categories that are provided by the other programs, with the major difference it seems that with the Ford/GM/Toyota classes it looks like they are designated Dealer Co-op, which means you will find yourself learning at an actual dealership from time to time.
Lets look at the differences:
Auto Tech Comprehensive – This curriculum prepares individuals for employment in the automotive repair industry or upgrades service and repair skills. Job opportunities include journeyman, garage, agency and line technicians. Competency in engine drivability diagnosis and electrical/electronic diagnosis and repair as well as general service in other systems will be developed.versus
Ford/GM/Toyota classes – [i]This industry-specific program, designed in cooperation with either General Motors and the Maryland General Motors Dealerships, Ford Motor Company and the Maryland Ford Motor Company Dealerships, or Toyota Motors and the Maryland Toyota Dealerships, leads to an Associate of Applied Science degree. It alternates college instruction with on-the-job dealership training. This two-year Cooperative Education (Co-op) program is designed for individuals who have a career interest in the automotive service industry. Students must meet specific requirements of admission. An A.A.S. degree is awarded to students who have a QPA of 2.0 or higher and complete the listed course pattern. All automotive course requirements are either General Motors, Ford, or Toyota oriented. The General Motors ASEP programs, the Ford ASSET programs, and the Toyota Motors T-TEN programs at CCBC Catonsville are nationally accredited by ASE/NATEF (Master).
The course sequence listed refers to the following industry-specific programs:
General Motors Automotive Service Educational Program (ASEP) Automotive Technology
Ford Motor Company Automotive Student Service Education Training (ASSET) Automotive Technology
Toyota Motors Toyota Technical Education Network (T-TEN) Automotive TechnologyGENERAL MOTORS – ASEP
FORD MOTOR COMPANY – ASSET
TOYOTA MOTORS – T-TENAll programs start in the fall and run continuously in eight-week sessions. [/i]
Bottom line is you will learn something from both classes, but it depends on where you want to end up. You will learn ALOT in the Ford/GM/Toyota classes, but remember– that is specific to that brand. If it helps you get your certification and you like a particular brand, then maybe this is the best way to go versus the Auto Tech Comprehensive, which is set more towards the guy looking to do non-specific brand automotive work.
It’s your call because ultimately YOU need to know what you prefer to do. I suggest going to the college and speaking with the department heads and see what differences there really are.
I do want to leave you with this bit of advice: If you are unhappy with your choice, do not be afraid to start learning something else. You seem to have a level head on your shoulders, and that’s part 1 of the game. Most people I know twice as old as u still don’t even have that. Have confidence in yourself, learn as much as you can, try your hardest, and you will be just fine.
Best of luck to you!
First, congratulations on deciding to continue your education. I have never taken formal training from schools as far as mechanics go, as I grew up playing in scrap yards in the 80s and 90s learning on cars that other people had blown up.
Since you have zero automotive experience, i highly suggest grabbing your socket set and some hand tools and go to your local U Pull It or self-service parts recycling center (aka auto junk yard) and spend some time seeing how the basics work. This is by FAR the easiest way to understand where a connecting rod goes, what a camshaft does, and what it takes to pull off an intake. Plus, you’ll get nice and dirty in the process 🙂 You can easily do this on a weekend. Bring a friend with you who may know more and let them walk you through something.
This will get you at least FAMILIAR with automotive structures and how crappy some companies build cars!As for what programs to take, I looked at the link you had provided. It seems that Automotive Technology Comprehensive covers the generalizations in all the categories that are provided by the other programs, with the major difference it seems that with the Ford/GM/Toyota classes it looks like they are designated Dealer Co-op, which means you will find yourself learning at an actual dealership from time to time.
Lets look at the differences:
Auto Tech Comprehensive – This curriculum prepares individuals for employment in the automotive repair industry or upgrades service and repair skills. Job opportunities include journeyman, garage, agency and line technicians. Competency in engine drivability diagnosis and electrical/electronic diagnosis and repair as well as general service in other systems will be developed.versus
Ford/GM/Toyota classes – [i]This industry-specific program, designed in cooperation with either General Motors and the Maryland General Motors Dealerships, Ford Motor Company and the Maryland Ford Motor Company Dealerships, or Toyota Motors and the Maryland Toyota Dealerships, leads to an Associate of Applied Science degree. It alternates college instruction with on-the-job dealership training. This two-year Cooperative Education (Co-op) program is designed for individuals who have a career interest in the automotive service industry. Students must meet specific requirements of admission. An A.A.S. degree is awarded to students who have a QPA of 2.0 or higher and complete the listed course pattern. All automotive course requirements are either General Motors, Ford, or Toyota oriented. The General Motors ASEP programs, the Ford ASSET programs, and the Toyota Motors T-TEN programs at CCBC Catonsville are nationally accredited by ASE/NATEF (Master).
The course sequence listed refers to the following industry-specific programs:
General Motors Automotive Service Educational Program (ASEP) Automotive Technology
Ford Motor Company Automotive Student Service Education Training (ASSET) Automotive Technology
Toyota Motors Toyota Technical Education Network (T-TEN) Automotive TechnologyGENERAL MOTORS – ASEP
FORD MOTOR COMPANY – ASSET
TOYOTA MOTORS – T-TENAll programs start in the fall and run continuously in eight-week sessions. [/i]
Bottom line is you will learn something from both classes, but it depends on where you want to end up. You will learn ALOT in the Ford/GM/Toyota classes, but remember– that is specific to that brand. If it helps you get your certification and you like a particular brand, then maybe this is the best way to go versus the Auto Tech Comprehensive, which is set more towards the guy looking to do non-specific brand automotive work.
It’s your call because ultimately YOU need to know what you prefer to do. I suggest going to the college and speaking with the department heads and see what differences there really are.
I do want to leave you with this bit of advice: If you are unhappy with your choice, do not be afraid to start learning something else. You seem to have a level head on your shoulders, and that’s part 1 of the game. Most people I know twice as old as u still don’t even have that. Have confidence in yourself, learn as much as you can, try your hardest, and you will be just fine.
Best of luck to you!
When the gas price hikes first hit a few years ago, i remember people were looking around for the old Geo Metro 3 cylinder cars because they were getting over 50mpg… lol! People with Expeditions and huge SUV’s couldn’t get enough of them!
The downside: You’re driving a Geo Metro…
When the gas price hikes first hit a few years ago, i remember people were looking around for the old Geo Metro 3 cylinder cars because they were getting over 50mpg… lol! People with Expeditions and huge SUV’s couldn’t get enough of them!
The downside: You’re driving a Geo Metro…
I tell this to all my friends whose kids are going into high school: Civic or Corolla.
Both are bang on reliable, cheap to fix, cheap to insure, and not fast.
Get yourself a car from a nice little old lady that doesn’t have left over fart can exhaust and mods. Those cars will definitely last them through high school and probably the first 2 years of college.
Forget the Focus. I keep mine around as a runabout because I dont have far to go for work, and i’m seriously getting tired of fixing it. If i didn’t get it for free, i’d have sold it a LONG time ago…
I tell this to all my friends whose kids are going into high school: Civic or Corolla.
Both are bang on reliable, cheap to fix, cheap to insure, and not fast.
Get yourself a car from a nice little old lady that doesn’t have left over fart can exhaust and mods. Those cars will definitely last them through high school and probably the first 2 years of college.
Forget the Focus. I keep mine around as a runabout because I dont have far to go for work, and i’m seriously getting tired of fixing it. If i didn’t get it for free, i’d have sold it a LONG time ago…
I have the same ratchet listed above that Ratchet Face has, and also a Kobalt 3/8 air ratchet that i’ve had now for about 4 years… both work excellent with no issues. I also have a little 1/4 in. air ratchet that I got with my Craftsman air compressor years ago, and it works great too.
IMHO, stay with a good name tool. Snap On (if you can afford it) is fine, I. Rand is fine as well. Had a friend buy a Harbor Freight air ratchet and it blew out after 3 hours of use!! His second one though is still up and running. It’s very much hit or miss with those. Some tools I say you can get away skimping out on, but others I say get something that has a reputation to last.
Personally I dont know the differences of seal vs. unsealed. But, like Ratchet Face said, keep em oiled, clean up your tools when you are done with them, and you should be fine. I put a couple of drops of oil into mine after every use and have never had an issue yet.
I have the same ratchet listed above that Ratchet Face has, and also a Kobalt 3/8 air ratchet that i’ve had now for about 4 years… both work excellent with no issues. I also have a little 1/4 in. air ratchet that I got with my Craftsman air compressor years ago, and it works great too.
IMHO, stay with a good name tool. Snap On (if you can afford it) is fine, I. Rand is fine as well. Had a friend buy a Harbor Freight air ratchet and it blew out after 3 hours of use!! His second one though is still up and running. It’s very much hit or miss with those. Some tools I say you can get away skimping out on, but others I say get something that has a reputation to last.
Personally I dont know the differences of seal vs. unsealed. But, like Ratchet Face said, keep em oiled, clean up your tools when you are done with them, and you should be fine. I put a couple of drops of oil into mine after every use and have never had an issue yet.
Nice impact, especially for a FIRST one!
I’m more of an air guy myself, but have had a couple of battery op ones as well. I will say I agree with Passaturbo about if you are a mechanic that doesn’t use it that often… batteries get expensive. A decent compressor isn’t that much anymore, plus you can run a plethora of tools off of it, especially if you maintain your air tools.
Back on topic though, I take my battery operated impact with me when I am on car trips because if I get a flat, i’d much rather zip em off than fight with a tire iron!!
I hope you have fun with your new toy! They really are a life saver!
Nice impact, especially for a FIRST one!
I’m more of an air guy myself, but have had a couple of battery op ones as well. I will say I agree with Passaturbo about if you are a mechanic that doesn’t use it that often… batteries get expensive. A decent compressor isn’t that much anymore, plus you can run a plethora of tools off of it, especially if you maintain your air tools.
Back on topic though, I take my battery operated impact with me when I am on car trips because if I get a flat, i’d much rather zip em off than fight with a tire iron!!
I hope you have fun with your new toy! They really are a life saver!