Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
Thank you college man. I noticed that the site does not have the RH bushing in stock and I am currently waiting for a response from the shop to check if I need both or just the one.
So, I took it to a shop to get it on a lift and checked and the knocking noise was coming from a loose rack and pinion. The slight wobble was from a loose wheel (how???). Just wanted to update and let everybody know what was going on.
I took it to a shop to get it on a lift and checked and the knocking noise was coming from a loose rack and pinion. The slight wobble was from a loose wheel (how???). Just wanted to update and let everybody know what was going on.
Support one wheel at a time? As in lift the front end and run the engine?
I took the car out for another run last night and the noise sounds like a knocking or clicking, as if something keeps falling back into place while the tire is spinning. It happens more when I turn right, and goes away when I turn left. I recently replaced both axles, so unless one of them is bad than I can’t think of what it would be.
I also think one of the tires is distorted.
Alright, so I wasn’t able to remove the ABS ring on the new axle, nor was there an old ABS ring attached to the rotor (and assembly), so I ordered a re-manufactured axle that arrived today. Pulled the new one out, replaced it easily with the reman part, slapped it all together, tightened the castle nut to specifications and the wheel spun freely (while in neutral). My conclusion (based on what I saw and the help from everybody here): The ABS ring was pressing against the rotor assembly and causing the bearing to compress in an odd manner that wouldn’t allow the wheel to spin.
Initially I went to replace the passenger side axle because while on the road it would rock and knock at higher speeds, especially when I turned left. I took it out for a spin after replacing the axle and the knocking is gone, for the most part. Turning left there is no noise or knocking or anything frightful, but when I turn right, a sound that is very similar appears. Since we are on the subject, think the driver side needs to be replaced as well? Now that I have the experience, it shouldn’t be as challenging (I hope).
I went and did some measuring and a closer inspection. It appears the ABS ring is preventing the axle from slipping through by another 8th of an inch.
I’m going start looking up ways to remove the ABS ring and hope removing it will solve the issue. Any suggestions/thoughts on how to remove the ring or anything else I recently stated?
There doesn’t appear to be an old ring stuck and from the looks of the original, there was never one there.
The new ring appears to be welded on, and if I could disconnect it, I wouldn’t be able to slide it off unless I disconnected one of the boots (because of the size of the ring).
I grabbed a torque wrench and put 150+ ft-lbs (166 being the specification, but 150 being the limit on the wrench) on the nut and the wheel won’t budge. But again, when I loosen the nut it will spin. Anything above 50 ft-lbs (?) causes the wheel to stop spinning freely.
EDIT: I think the ring can be removed without removing the boot. I was thinking of it in a different position. Just as long as it isn’t welded on.
EDIT: It doesn’t appear to be welded on. Looks tight though.
The sprocket looks like it is part of the assembly. I will double check to make sure. Even if I could get it off, I am not sure I could slide it off. Have you experienced something similar before?
The old and new are exactly the same size and length. Flanges are the same amount as well. I checked all that to make sure before I put it on. I did some research and every place I have checked says that the addition of the sprocket doesn’t interfere with installation.
I’m searching for the correct torque now, but am having trouble finding it.
No impact wrench. All body.
I could try a little grease. The new axle has the antilock brake sprocket (is that the correct name?) on it, while the old didn’t. From what I was told it doesn’t affect it in a negative way, but to me it looks like it doesn’t allow the axle to go completely through the rotor.
I just got back in from checking that and found the calipers to be in working order, although the brakes will need to be replaced soon.
I decided to brake the nut on the threaded part of the axle that is coming through the rotor. Once I did, the axle and rotor spun freely. The nut was on too tight. Personally, I didn’t think the axle was all of the way through completely because the hole at the end of the axle (for the pin) doesn’t clear the end of the nut (I was trying to move the car back some so I could freely look for the pin). Would a torque wrench fix this?
Also, if somebody could explain, I assumed that a tight nut would be fine in this situation because the axle is connected to the rotor/rim/wheel and wouldn’t interfere with the rotation.