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The grind went away, and so did the surging. for the time being at least when i put the honda trans fluid in. My EGR is clean, i cleaned that a while ago, along with replacing the valve because the diaphragm was worn out, but not failing. So for now, the fluid was the fix. Thanks for all the comments and help.
Also, Eric, i cannot say enough how much easier the hydraulic clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder replacement was with seeing a car that was 95% like mine, and the way to bleed it was far easier than i thought. Luckily, as you said in the video, i had a friend help me with the process, or else it would have very well been a calorie burning day.
ok, so i bought 6 quarts of the honda fluid (only took 2, but i have some for reserve considering the nearest dealership is about 20 miles away), and I will see what comes of it. if nothing improves over the next few hundred miles to an oil change ( i change mine no more than 3000 miles), i will look into seeing what a transmission rebuild costs for parts (I am assuming about 500 or so for parts, and labor will kill if i have to have that), and where to buy the best from. Ill let you guys know what comes of it. You have been very helpful. Also, I really liked Eric’s video on the clutch hydraulics, because that helped me 100% understand how to change the faulty master cylinder and slave about a month ago. (irony that the day after i watched that, my reservior was dry, and it was leaking on the firewall as he showed)
it is a surging in low rpm (1500-2100) in only 2nd and 3rd gears. Is the fluid sold in quarts or do i have to pay labor for them to put their bulk amount in? it is extremely easy for me to just take the wheel off and get to the filler and drain plugs.
As long as the gasket mounting is the same, size is not an issue. just make sure that the old gasket came off as to not get the problem with double gasketing, and making a small nuance into a very costly repair.
I would remove the overflow and seal off any flow points and put a dyed liquid in it, and see if any leaks are present. This may take a while, but it may be such a small leak that the coolant does not make a very prominent leak spot. Only by removing the overflow can some leaks be seen sometimes. If you cannot see that any leaks are coming from the overflow itself, or any coolant lines (inspect after they are clean to be able to see if any change happened) then like all the other posts, the leak would be internal.
So the new plan of attack would be to check the clutch itself. What weight oil is the honda fluid? Also, would a bad clutch also make that “surging” feel when i accelerate, other than the EGR, which i replaced the valve and cleaned the ports. (I could not have dreamed of even getting carb cleaner through them because they were soo clogged). I will also check my clutch master cylinder, even though i adjusted the pedal so that there is a little free play at the top, but no pressure on the cylinder itself when the pedal is up. (the master and slave cylinders are brand new, did those about 3000 miles ago) amd to answer the mileage question, there is 187k on it.