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Good news! Sorry about the super late response. I just threw in a new delphi pump today between some nasty thunderstorms and it holds pressure like it should now. Thank you all for helping me properly diagnose the issue and allow me to not waste my 35 minutes of time replacing the pump ;). It most certianly was the check valve Eric.
Thank you all for the advice yet again :). I’ll try to throw in a new pump potentially Thursday next week as I have a jam packed week training for the local “Tour de Tonka” bicycle ride on Tuesday and working 50 hours. I’ll keep this updated on my findings.
I’m glad you mentioned the possibility of a weeping regulator as i know that is a notorious issue with these engines. Mine is good, pressure rises to max when i pull the intake vacuum line off of it. I have no way of putting my gauge on the line by the filter as my gauge doesn’t have all those fancy splicing adaptors like the professional gauge kits. I looked around at the fuel lines and all are either plastic or metal, so I can’t pinch them off :/. It’s a bit more work, but can’t I simply pull the fuel rail off and leave the injectors in to see if any spray fuel (not turning the engine over)? If they don’t leak visibly, then I can assume the pump assembly? Thanks for the input so far. I do agree that Airtex is crap, I was looking at a Delphi unit to potentially replace it with.
I did use this video for clarification of the procedure as I have found this method to be the easiest to understand and also do not have to remove the timing cover as the firing sequence is pretty self explanatory. I think I’ll just barely make them tighter and see what happens. It runs better now than it used to even being loose. I sure hope my exhaust valves aren’t burned up being as tight as they were.
I did make one thing (make that 4 things) better while being in there. Turns out I had some bosch plugs (In a Honda? NGK!!!!) in there and moved em to some g-power NGK plugs. I also had one bear of a time taking out the upper tube seals as I think they were original. Valve cover gasket and tube seals and spark plugs are all new now, even though I had no leaks.
I did use this video for clarification of the procedure as I have found this method to be the easiest to understand and also do not have to remove the timing cover as the firing sequence is pretty self explanatory. I think I’ll just barely make them tighter and see what happens. It runs better now than it used to even being loose. I sure hope my exhaust valves aren’t burned up being as tight as they were.
I did make one thing (make that 4 things) better while being in there. Turns out I had some bosch plugs (In a Honda? NGK!!!!) in there and moved em to some g-power NGK plugs. I also had one bear of a time taking out the upper tube seals as I think they were original. Valve cover gasket and tube seals and spark plugs are all new now, even though I had no leaks.
Since I was little, Like most out there, I tinkered with various things. I always adored those moments when I was asked when I wanted to help change the oil with grandpa and my parents. I was obsessed with anything that moved and ran (i.e. gas powered equipment).
At the age of 8, I pulled apart a nonfunctional belt sander and cleaned it and rewired it. Having seen that it operated well after that I was hooked on maintaining anything that was not working or could work better. Auto repair has been the newest thing for me as I am a college student studying mechanical engineering (bet you can guess why =)) and am low on cash to pay my local garage. I’ve done a clutch and other various repairs with a number of cars now. I cannot seem to get enough of it lately. Now, it is almost anything with my hands. This includes working on my new road bicycle, woodworking, metalworking, engine repair, electrical with cars and household.
I give thanks to my elders for showing me how to repair rather than replace most things and have the love themselves that they simply wanted to teach me how to do these things. Their love became mine =).
Since I was little, Like most out there, I tinkered with various things. I always adored those moments when I was asked when I wanted to help change the oil with grandpa and my parents. I was obsessed with anything that moved and ran (i.e. gas powered equipment).
At the age of 8, I pulled apart a nonfunctional belt sander and cleaned it and rewired it. Having seen that it operated well after that I was hooked on maintaining anything that was not working or could work better. Auto repair has been the newest thing for me as I am a college student studying mechanical engineering (bet you can guess why =)) and am low on cash to pay my local garage. I’ve done a clutch and other various repairs with a number of cars now. I cannot seem to get enough of it lately. Now, it is almost anything with my hands. This includes working on my new road bicycle, woodworking, metalworking, engine repair, electrical with cars and household.
I give thanks to my elders for showing me how to repair rather than replace most things and have the love themselves that they simply wanted to teach me how to do these things. Their love became mine =).
Here is a recovery from last site that did not get transferred over. The hashed lines mean a separate post.
and so a far while has passed and many observations taken. We did have the fuel system pressure checked, and that was good. didnt do it while driving, but we had put extra rpm on it while it was sitting in the shop. We did replace the fuel filter, and in this cars case, it was part of the sending unit, which we had to buy from the honda dealership, at about 70 some bucks or so. that did not fix the problem, but the car did gain some significant power, especially during the low rpm ranges. I never wiggled the key around, but ive never heard of that kind of problem before, however i will give it a shot. The bucking still exists. I have also noted the exact time it will also occur, as to before i never found consistency.
Another thing to mention as to what the surging feels like, and it may get better suggestions. Imagine pushing the gas pedal down, then all of the sudden you have power, then it goes away again, and wash rinse repeat. And note that this only happens when the car has not hit the further explained idle rise (next paragraph).
What happens is that we have to warm the car up as if it were winter. Then we just let it idle until we feel the idle getting rougher and rougher, and then the rpm will shoot up to about 1300-1600 by itself and then settle back down to 750 where it idles perfectly from there. if we let it sit also while hot, say going to to a department store and coming back out within 20 minutes, we have to wait for that rpm shift then its fine to drive again.
After the rpm rise and fall, the car will drive like normal, as if nothing is wrong.
That leaves me with these two guesses: A catalytic converter, or even an o2 sensor, even though it isn’t throwing a trouble code.
My knowledge of Catalytic converters is that it may cause poor performance, stalling, or surging and may smell like rotten eggs (which Tyler’s car does not have a foul smell like that).
And another thing to note: the way it warms up, it seems as if the car forgets how to idle at low rpm and has to reset or relearn that timing. very strange problem that is just pulling my hair out, and i usually do not have this much difficulty on these subjects, considering i do a lot of my own car work.
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New symptom we did not have, unfortunately it did not repeat. A few days ago we had a no start, with it turning over great, but NO HINT OF TRYING TO START. This makes me think it was part of the distributor(there was a ton of dew that morning) like either the ignition coil or the igniter. A;so, these symptoms of a no start seem to only chilly “dewey” morning. Didnt happen on a chilly dry morning.
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the second no start we tried 7 or 8 cycles of turning over for 6 seconds, then turning the key off and then back to starting to re-pressurize as much fuel as possible. then it started. Im thinking spark, because we have fuel pump engagement and replaced the in-tank fuel filter.If there is any inexpensive way of testing each component of the distributor, let me know what is needed to test it. I have a fluke multimeter, id need to buy a test light, spark tester, and probably something else, but no idea on how to test an ignitor.
And, we have been checking mpg averages, and have been getting an average of about 26.5mpg driving nicely.
I drive the same way, and my car is the same car except in a 1994 vintage, and I get 34mpg combined.
Also Eric, your previous post on wiggling the key didnt make a difference. if we just lightly moved the key back and forth, the car did not want to stall.
we have checked for ignition leaks but found none, and im going to find some propane for the vaccuum leaks (dont like using carb cleaner because it is too dangerous). Other than that, My brother and I are going to try to replicate it with the mechanic and see what he comes up with.
I took it to my local mechanic and he spent a little time looking the car over to diagnose our surging problem, (The not so nice surging that seriously moves the car, not just a vibration) and he cleaned out the throttle plates and replaced the distributor cap and rotor. No CE light. Problem still exists. We bled the clutch, removing the air. We are going to have Dodge (our mechanic that is named that by chance) look at it again on Monday. Any update we will post on here, however, keep feeding great ideas, i need all of them =)
If you are going to repace the fluid, repace the filter as well. clean the pad really good and make sure you have a magnet on your pan. Then put in about 6 quarts and check the level and add small amounts until it reads properly. Too much fluid can cause
with the hondas, most of the time stiff shifting is during cold weather, and that should be pretty consistent with all makes, considering the extra thick fluid in the cold makes the synchros work extra hard. If like said before, with the suspicion that th
If you can, pull the valve cover, but as mentioned, a boroscope will be very helpful if you get denied for lifting the valve cover. Beware as well if the boroscope is black and white displayed, it may be difficult to see sludge, let alone manuever the scope where it needs to go.
It was oe parts, and it was not the same noise. I did some digging and i did not see any movements in the suspension. However, i regreased my brakes slide pins (with very good silicone) and then just made sure to tighten everything down properly and my noise went away. seems i was careless and had a rattling caliper mounting bracket. Now, i can tell though that i have more steering response over the old control arms. Problem with suspension claims is that they are not always suspension (like mine being the brake caliper, friends cars having rattling k frames and in some other cases, bad engine mounts).
NOTE TO SELF: Tighten Everything =)
Car is much quieter after about 100 miles also. With that caliper fixed and everything in place and torqued to spec, handles very well for 190k miles.
Next repair: Body Rust……ugggh.
If your fuel pressure regulator does not provide answers, and is working properly, check the fuel delivery system. If you are showing low pressure, that could be as simple as a fuel filter or fuel pump. However, this sounds more like an intake vacuum leak to me. Check around the intake manifold gasket, EGR system, and the Intake as a whole. Also, it may not hurt to replace the O2 sensors and check the catalytic converter which may be restricting exhaust.
Eric made a video for checking vacuum leaks,
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9CPqbaSgcok