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Eric, the audio feed is static(y) not sure why. There is a live chat on the YouTube video page. Everyone is experiencing the audio glitch. Just a heads up.
Hi Eric, thanks for the great videos. My 2002 Saab 9-3 vert has been giving me issues when starting cold. Once it starts, it sometimes will idle poorly and even stall for the first 10 seconds or so. Once the car is moving, it’s fine. Doesn’t happen on a warm start, only when cold, and not overtime either. It’s been fine the past 2 days, but before that it’s every so often. If it’s a vacuum leak, shouldn’t it be more consistent? Keep up the progress on the Fairmont. I’m looking forward to seeing videos of it on the road. 🙂
I will have to investigate it more. The car has frequent oil changes (every 5,000 miles) and doesn’t burn or leak the oil.
My Mazda RX-8 is a drive by wire throttle, and I don’t notice any lag or delay…Well cylinder 4 isn’t getting spark, fuel, or compression. You need those 3 (and air) to create combustion.
Transmission fluid has been changed out every 30,000 miles as recommended by the service schedule booklet.
Transmission fluid has been changed out every 30,000 miles as recommended by the service schedule booklet.
Another interesting tidbit is that this noise starts after then engine has warmed up. The noise keeps getting louder until the temp gauge is in the middle (where it should be) and the noise stays consistent after that. But from a cold start, no ticking noise.
Another interesting tidbit is that this noise starts after then engine has warmed up. The noise keeps getting louder until the temp gauge is in the middle (where it should be) and the noise stays consistent after that. But from a cold start, no ticking noise.
The 2003 and newer Saab 9-3 (Epsilon platform) are closer to GM than the previous Saabs. The 2003 and newer units have a GM engine, unlike the older Saab H series found in 2002 (2003 convertible) cars. The older H series were known for sludge issues, but I don’t think there is anything to worry about with the newer cars. Just make sure the audio system works, as if the fiber optic cable is damaged (it goes to an amplifier under the front left seat) the audio system goes out entirely, but the directional clicker is also tied into the audio system, so you won’t hear it click, and might not notice it on.
The 2003 and newer Saab 9-3 (Epsilon platform) are closer to GM than the previous Saabs. The 2003 and newer units have a GM engine, unlike the older Saab H series found in 2002 (2003 convertible) cars. The older H series were known for sludge issues, but I don’t think there is anything to worry about with the newer cars. Just make sure the audio system works, as if the fiber optic cable is damaged (it goes to an amplifier under the front left seat) the audio system goes out entirely, but the directional clicker is also tied into the audio system, so you won’t hear it click, and might not notice it on.
Sorry for the late reply. A few things to note. The oil cap is combined with the oil dipstick, so looking down the narrow tube is difficult. As for the dealership, my dad bought the car used from Village Saab, and never went back. He just goes to some gas station with a backyard mechanic, or for more concerning issues, he goes to a place in Topsfield MA (again, not SAAB authorized, but they have been around longer).
Sludge buildup normally happens as a result of extended oil changes or faults in the PCV system. At least that’s been my experience. You really can’t go wrong with regular oil changes.
^^^True, but a fun fact here is that these Saab B2XX series engines were known for sludge issues, so much so, that Saab made 6 different revisions to the PCV system to fix the sludge issues. The 6th attempt is the best (obviously) but still not perfect.
Barneyb- Sure the brand suffers, but Saab isn’t around (at least in the US) to suffer. 🙁
Sorry for the late reply. A few things to note. The oil cap is combined with the oil dipstick, so looking down the narrow tube is difficult. As for the dealership, my dad bought the car used from Village Saab, and never went back. He just goes to some gas station with a backyard mechanic, or for more concerning issues, he goes to a place in Topsfield MA (again, not SAAB authorized, but they have been around longer).
Sludge buildup normally happens as a result of extended oil changes or faults in the PCV system. At least that’s been my experience. You really can’t go wrong with regular oil changes.
^^^True, but a fun fact here is that these Saab B2XX series engines were known for sludge issues, so much so, that Saab made 6 different revisions to the PCV system to fix the sludge issues. The 6th attempt is the best (obviously) but still not perfect.
Barneyb- Sure the brand suffers, but Saab isn’t around (at least in the US) to suffer. 🙁
[quote=”barneyb” post=104730]Sounds like good advice to me. Especially the checking of the oiling tubes for the timing chain. However, this is sounding like more of a job then maybe a apprentice mechanic can handle. I’ve seen people your age doing this sort of stuff but they were already quite experienced.
I mean, I don’t know your situation and there are only two ways to learn car mechanics and the other is school. But if you need the car for transportation I’d suggest taking it to a shop for examination. Learn to do all the maintenance work and have some tools before diving in.
BTW, I enjoy seeing all the extended oil drain advice coming back to bite the makers in the butt. Too bad Saab isn’t still around to enjoy this.[/quote]
True, but when it happens, who pays? I’m sure it takes time for the sludge to build up, and the car may be out of warranty by the time the engine fails.. It bites the owner instead. Although the owner should still know better in my opinion.
The main issue here is that my parents seem concerned that the car might fall on my head (they apparently don’t understand what a jack stand is even though I have explained it numerous times) Also my dad is cheap. He told me “Its made that noise for a while now and runs fine. I wouldn’t lose any sleep over it” He might not lose sleep, but he might lose money. I’m tempted to pull the valve cover off and check around for any signs of sludge and go from there. The car will be having it’s transmission fluid changed soon (at 90,000) miles, so my dad will “ask” about the noise. Not sure how familiar the guy is with the sludge issue on these engines. I don’t know what the big problem is to get them to stop preventing me from working on the car and jacking it up. Sure hell could break loose and kill me, but I could also get shot when I go somewhere, or hit by a car. :dry:
Oh, and the other annoying part, my dad doesn’t want me to do any brake work on any of the cars since the brakes are such an important thing. Yes they are, but they are also not complicated (by the looks of things, and the helpful ETCG videos) I don’t think someone who has seen how a brake pad replacement goes, has the service manual for the car, and has hands can screw up a simple brake pad replacement.. or am I going over my head.
Eric, I forgot to add, the engine uses a timing chain. How long do those usually last, and can a loose timing chain cause that noise? Someone also mentioned that a loose balance chain can make noise..
[quote=”barneyb” post=104730]Sounds like good advice to me. Especially the checking of the oiling tubes for the timing chain. However, this is sounding like more of a job then maybe a apprentice mechanic can handle. I’ve seen people your age doing this sort of stuff but they were already quite experienced.
I mean, I don’t know your situation and there are only two ways to learn car mechanics and the other is school. But if you need the car for transportation I’d suggest taking it to a shop for examination. Learn to do all the maintenance work and have some tools before diving in.
BTW, I enjoy seeing all the extended oil drain advice coming back to bite the makers in the butt. Too bad Saab isn’t still around to enjoy this.[/quote]
True, but when it happens, who pays? I’m sure it takes time for the sludge to build up, and the car may be out of warranty by the time the engine fails.. It bites the owner instead. Although the owner should still know better in my opinion.
The main issue here is that my parents seem concerned that the car might fall on my head (they apparently don’t understand what a jack stand is even though I have explained it numerous times) Also my dad is cheap. He told me “Its made that noise for a while now and runs fine. I wouldn’t lose any sleep over it” He might not lose sleep, but he might lose money. I’m tempted to pull the valve cover off and check around for any signs of sludge and go from there. The car will be having it’s transmission fluid changed soon (at 90,000) miles, so my dad will “ask” about the noise. Not sure how familiar the guy is with the sludge issue on these engines. I don’t know what the big problem is to get them to stop preventing me from working on the car and jacking it up. Sure hell could break loose and kill me, but I could also get shot when I go somewhere, or hit by a car. :dry:
Oh, and the other annoying part, my dad doesn’t want me to do any brake work on any of the cars since the brakes are such an important thing. Yes they are, but they are also not complicated (by the looks of things, and the helpful ETCG videos) I don’t think someone who has seen how a brake pad replacement goes, has the service manual for the car, and has hands can screw up a simple brake pad replacement.. or am I going over my head.
Eric, I forgot to add, the engine uses a timing chain. How long do those usually last, and can a loose timing chain cause that noise? Someone also mentioned that a loose balance chain can make noise..