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Here is a picture of the OBD II A to OBD II B connector. Hondas OBD II A connector was 5 pin till 99 when they went OBD II B
Thanks! Yeah the site is a lot smoother loading and cleaner than the old one and the forum is better built!
Hi guys,
New events since last post:
My engine was fixed. It now runs smoothly, and DTC P0304 never showed up again. I didn’t have any problems with the coolant – before the engine overheated and the coolant got into expansion vessel. Not any more.That’s for the good news. The bad news is the jolts didn’t stop. If anything, they got worse. I called the service where engine was assembled (I was in vacation, away from home city) and hearing this, the guy suggested that the ignition system cannot deliver enough power, especially now that the engine with freshly fixed valves require more power. He suggested I start with replacing the spark plugs, and if needed the high tension cords.
A friend suggested that I should also take out the crankshaft position and camshaft position sensors and give them a good clean – perhaps the ECU doesn’t get all the information it needs as often as it needs.
Does anyone else have some suggestions?
Thanks,
AdrianS
_______________________________________________Well I just wanted to take a second to say that you should be proud of the fact that you were able to figure out that valve issue. I know “mechanics” that would have just replaced the motor because they don’t want to take the time to figure the real issues out..
It sucks that the problem is still there but this kind of thing happens from time to time. When I started reading your question I was originally thinking that you had a bad coil on that cylinder because the problem got worse when it gets hotter. This is a typical symptom of a failing coil and this could still be the issue if the symptoms are still the same. I would begin with checking the compression again just to be sure that everything is all good internally because there could possibly be a hairline crack in something that got missed in the process of fixing it last time. Hopefully it’s all good but it is always better to be sure. Next I would change the spark plugs out again and use a good set of plugs that are either the same as stock or better and check the coil on that cylinder with an ohm meter to make sure it is good. If you have another coil you could just replace it and see if it helps because a bad coil will test good sometimes until it gets hot and then start testing bad. I would also look closely at the signal wires to the coil and the injectors for signs of wear or a break in the wire. Eric has a video on checking wires for voltage drop that could really be helpful for you if this is causing your problem. Hope this helps.
______________________Hi JoshMc,
Thanks for looking into this. As I was reading your advices, I felt that at this point that’s exactly right.
But let me tell you what happened yesterday: I replaced the spark plugs with NGK BKR6ES-11 (a local auto parts sold them to me a few months back). The stock plugs, as per the manual were also NGK (but NGK BKR6E-11, no S). Anyway, until yesterday, I was using some BERU Ultra 14FR-7DU plugs.So, I went to a trip – my future mother-in-law needed to go some place, and I had refused a couple of times. Now, I offered to give her a ride – a round trip of 120 km/80 mi total (60km/40mi one way), 95% on freeway. Well, guess what: with the new spark plugs problems got even worse. Even though I was driving 60km/h (~37mph), I still got the jolts (before replacing plugs doing 60km/h was safe – as per last weekend’s trip). It was really annoying, especially that I was in a hurry on my way back – had a doctor’s appointment. As jolts started, I would pull right on the emergency lane and stop engine for a minute. I discovered that I don’t have to stop the engine, but it’s recovering faster when stopped. As I was getting closer to appointment time, I didn’t stop the car any more: I would pull right, just turn off engine while continuing moving on the emergency lane, wait for a while, then restart. This worked – even 10 seconds of engine shut down allowed it to restart and work smoothly… for a while.
In the evening I researched the symptoms on the Internet: I said, well, my engine is now mechanically sound (fingers crossed), cooling system works fine (new coolant, checked pump, radiator unplugged in April, new thermostat – as I wrote in the initial post), I have new plugs, what the heck is going on? I researched for bad high tension cord symptoms, but as I read more, it looks like it might be a coil – or coils (I’ve got two of them, COP setup).
As I understand, the cords make problems during cold weather and at idle, whereas my problems only happened when the engine has been working hard(er) for a while. So yeah, your post about coils felt just right.So… I’ll go and replace the high tension cords because who knows how old they are and how much longer can they last. I didn’t replace them, bought the car in 2010, manufactured in 2001. It wouldn’t hurt . I spotted some NGK high tension cords at a local parts shop.
I”ll see about the coils. They are more expensive, but most likely they are to blame. My car isn’t really usable in this state, unless I want to drive as slow as a horse wagon (more or less).Tomorrow, I’m going to Germany as a tourist for a week (not with the car). I might buy the parts there, they might be cheaper.
I’ll check the other items you suggested, JoshMc. I’ll keep the thread updated.
Thanks,
AdrianSyou need an OBD II A code scanner to read what the engine codes are, most autozones and places like that will scan the car for free.
to install the website like an app on your main page for browsing follow the instructions.
1. log onto your web browser and go to http://www.ericthecarguy.com
2. when your there a small popup will show up at the bottom requesting you to add this to your home screen. click on it and ETCG will show up on your home screen.Its that easy!
yeah im trying to figure out what happened but at this point itl have tho be restored by hand sorry about that.
no it was an issue with the forum port, if the post is absolutely needed i will go back and restore it.
before you go driving it around and possibly kill the motor for good it might be a rod knock and the more you rev it and drive it the more damage it does. usually rods are the first thing that gets starved with oil and will inflict the most damage like a spun bearing or whatnot.
The green light function does not work on this forum. If you answered it and they were answered they will fall down the list and the search function will be able to index them in the new search results.
its probably all worn out so you might have issues tightening it or might have skipped a tooth, if your are doing it this weekend then you should be ok.
[quote=”bmxpegan411″ post=30875]Thanks alot! I assumed it was too loose but don’t know a whole lot about them…looks like I came to the right place for some good honest answers! This weekend I’ll tighten it up a bit and very soon it’s time to replace it anyways, because I’m not so sure it was replaced yet, with 103 on the odometer.
Thanks again.[/quote]
If this is the original timing belt that was on the motor it is definitely about time to change it out.