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[quote=”college man” post=31480]I would like to suggest that the post E-mail
feature be turned off. To many E-mails in my
inbox.:P[/quote]There is a checkbox to not subscribe or receive emails on the topic you reply. I don’t want to turn the feature off for it brings people back here when they have a post answered.
yeah it was a glitch unfortunately, it will not happen again.
JoshMc
Double check to make sure that you have every sensor and wire hooked up to the correct location. How many times have you started the engine after the repairs? Sometimes it takes a few minutes for the computer to settle down after it has been disconnected from the battery so you might want to let it run for a few minutes and then try it again. Also if the motor got flooded before it started the plugs might be fuel fouled and needing cleaned. Make sure that there is no coolant getting into the oil or anything before you let it run for a while. If water is getting into the oil it can cause a lot of damage fast.
Eric might be able to answer this question a lot better since he worked for Honda and knows them inside and out but I would check those things out until he gets a chance to answer this for you. Hope this helps.
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skim3544
+1 on double checking all your work.
I had similar problem while working on BMW M20 engine, after the time belt replacement the engine was taking 10 – 20 cranks to start. It turned out that I damaged the cranksensor while replacing the timing belt.————————————-
SquibcatQuoted From dreamer2355:
Did you check the mechanical timing of the engine?
No I haven’t. I was hoping it would all line up correct and life would be great. I’m a truck driver, not a mechanic, so I’m really not sure how to do that. I’m sure I could figure it out eventually. I know I have to line up the marks with the timing gun, but the cars a 96 and all the marks are rusted. I can see the notches and can use some type of paint to fill them in, but at that point I’m lost as far as advancing or retarding the timing.
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SquibcatOK I opened to timing cover back up and triple checked all of my work. If someone out there can give me some advice on this image and my distributor. The image has the 1 plug bottom left yet my #1 plug on the distributor is at the right. Is the distributor set wrong?
Is mine off by 180 degrees?
Everything has been checked. The #1 cylinder was set at TDC. The timing marks are all lined up. On the 96 there’s a place to put a bolt in and lock the rear timing shaft. All of this was done correct. The car turns over but will not fire.
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SquibcatProblem solved. I went back and checked all marks. Everything was lined up correct. Where I had my issue I believe was when I was putting tension on the belts with the upper an lower timing covers on. What I ended up doing was leaving the timing covers off and tightening the belts to make sure it did not go out of time. Everything tightened up, fired it up with the covers off. Ran perfect. Then I put it all back together. The car runs great. One problem I had was I cracked one of the crank positioning sensors tightening it up. I didn’t apply much pressure to it, so I was surprised it cracked. 16 year old plastic must have been brittle. Good thing it happened now instead of later on down the road. Anyone doing this job be careful. That sensor is a $160
Thanks Eric for the video. Saved me a bunch of money doing it myself.[quote=”djdevon3″ post=31329]Well I love the new site mainly because I couldn’t login for about 6 months for some reason!!! I emailed Eric a few times over the months and he didn’t have a way of fixing it so I got screwed and had to sit and wait until the site was revamped. My main topic that was about 4 pages long where a lot of people helped me get my car back up and running is GONE. 🙁 I would very much like to make some updates to that topic so if possible please get that one back for me.
Eric has been an inspiration for me in working on my car and I’d really like to get that topic back so everyone can read how Eric has positively affected my life. Beefy and Dreamer were encouraging too so it’s great to hear they are still around and helping more than ever.
It’s great to be back on the site finally. Thank you webmaster whoever you are![/quote]
What was the name of the topic?
[quote=”johnbkobb” post=31350]I’ve decided that I don’t really like the the automatic subscribe feature when I post. Don’t like all the email generated filling my inbox. I would rather just be able to subscribe to what I want to subscribe to rather than have to unsubscribe to everything I post to. Others may like this feature so I don’t want it changed and mess it up for them but is there a setting I could change to turn it off for me?[/quote]
Its a Global option and if i turn it off it turns it off for everyone. Sorry:(Cool, have fun with it!
[quote=”CELICA XX” post=31369][quote=”onyx” post=31323]what post is like that i need to know[/quote]
For example, on the thread “Cooling problems, 1995 Audi” … it shows it was created by EricTheCarGuy
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Here is another example of a few errors: This was originally a post within an existing thread. The new forum made it a separate thread, and cut off the contents of the message as well.
Yeah that one is a glitch from merging 2 topics together. not much to be done there but is accurate who started it in the post.
As far as a preview button, this forum doesn’t have that, not sure if ill install one either at this point in time.
I actually had to have my heads done on my Chevy Venture back in 2009 when I replaced the lower intake manifold gasket and I found this fairly local engine rebuilding shop and they did both for $125, so that was reasonable. They did a dip in some kind of cleaning solution, planed the heads so they were flat again and checked for cracks. I’ll most likely head there again if we do go ahead with this, which I am seriously considering at this point.
chevyman
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Well I have some good news to report……I think. After my son got back from his trip south, he checked his oil and it wasn’t low at all, in fact it was still above the add oil mark. Could the MMO really have helped that soon?
I guess my best thing to do for now is to keep adding the MMO and make regular oil changes. It’s a lot easier than tearing this thing down. Maybe I won’t have to do it, this year anyway.
chevyman
[quote=”djdevon3″ post=31329]Well I love the new site mainly because I couldn’t login for about 6 months for some reason!!! I emailed Eric a few times over the months and he didn’t have a way of fixing it so I got screwed and had to sit and wait until the site was revamped. My main topic that was about 4 pages long where a lot of people helped me get my car back up and running is GONE. 🙁 I would very much like to make some updates to that topic so if possible please get that one back for me.
Eric has been an inspiration for me in working on my car and I’d really like to get that topic back so everyone can read how Eric has positively affected my life. Beefy and Dreamer were encouraging too so it’s great to hear they are still around and helping more than ever.
It’s great to be back on the site finally. Thank you webmaster whoever you are![/quote]
no problem, it was great to bring all of you a new site that works so much better than the old! I’m working on restoring the subjects here in the service and repair forum, the rest ill work on as time goes.
what post is like that i need to know
it is not on the mobile site. The latest video and the streaming content are what is on the site as well as the forum and the obd page.
Depending on the topic i will try and restore it if its absolutely mandatory to have or is a wealth of information.
[quote=”onyx” post=31227]Here is a picture of the OBD II A to OBD II B connector. Hondas OBD II A connector was 5 pin till 99 when they went OBD II B
Also i believe most OBD II scanners will have the correct adapter. but don’t quote me on that just depends on the manufacture that put it out.
in general for Honda anyway, Here are the dates to keep in mind.
OBD 0 (non-obd) 87-91
OBD 1 92-95
OBD 2 A 96-98
OBD 2 B 99-now. -
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