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Maybe simple now but not back when they first came out. You can still use a testlight or Dvm to check for power and grounds to modules just like back in the day. Of course, having a good scan tool and a scope won’t hurt. Today’s cars will probably seem easy to work on when compared to stuff coming in the future.
I guess when alternators, electronic ignitions, & disc brakes came out, it was a scary thing the old timers then as well. SMA, Scanner Danner, ETCG, Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics & New Level Automotive for me. Scotty who?
4.3L. IDK. Maybe see if you can Google to find out what GM rated towing capacity of a truck optioned out as yours is. Don’t know what rear axle ratio choices were available for a truck equipped with a 4.3.
I don’t know but looking at the photos, you might have enough room to get a pry bar on the star wheel adjuster and mangle it out of there. I’d suggest cutting the hold down pins looks but it looks like they’ve already met their maker.
1974 Buick Opel. bought used-German junk.
1975 Pontiac Trans Am. Bought used. Fun car. Only problem was worn out cam @ 55k miles. Common GM problem in the ’70’s.
1986 Mustang GT. My first new car. Fun car.
1985 Chevy 1/2 PU. Used. Was OK.
1993 Dodge Dakota. 4X4, 5.2L V-8 extended cab. Used. I think my favorite vehicle. No major problems.
2001 Pontiac Montana. New. Trans went out early. intake leaks. Head gaskets.
2005 Pontiac Grand Prix. Leased. Turned in before GM disintegration began to take place.
2007 Dodge Ram. 4X4 extended cab Hemi. Nice truck. Got better fuel mileage than my Dakota but the Dakota still tops my list. No problems during lease.
2008 Dodge Charge SE+ 3.5L. New. Ok if you like replacing front suspension parts constantly. Not a fun car to own in the winter.
2009 Buick Lucerne CXL. Used. See Buick Opel. just remove German.
2017 Chevy Malibu. Leased. Lasted 2 months before needed to be towed to the deal ’cause it quit running.
GM. Garbage Maker?I remember the garage I worked for sending us to classes when TBI first came out. The instructor was telling us about a class he taught for union end of line mechanics. He said the guys just sat there and read newspapers while he lectured. Then he put up a slide of a TBI unit. One of the guys took notice and said “hey, ain’t that one of them new fangled carburetors?”
I don’t know. If they use the bolts for cost savings, you would think the US car manufacturers would have been all over that a long time ago. You would think having to wrestle getting wheels on with bolts would be a hassle on the assembly line. Probably use something to index the wheel to make it go quicker.
1996 engine I think was 1st year for SCPI. Are you getting fuel? 412 kPa pressure should be enough to open the poppet valves. Apparently no spark if you changed the ignition module. No mechanical or vacuum advance on this, spark-timing controlled by ECU. Not to say the pick-up coil in the distributor isn’t bad. I’ve seen dist. bushings wear out & wipe out the pick-up coil. Maybe timing chain if a lot of miles on engine. Check cap & rotor & coil wire?
Only watched maybe a couple of his videos over the years. When he RTV’ed a sunroof shut, that did for me. Pretty much stick to SMA, ETCG, & Scanner Danner.
Same brother with GP had a 2001 Bonneville with series II I think. An intake valve broke, not at the stem but at the valve area. Looked like someone bit off 1/4 of a cookie. Anyway, don’t know if this is the right forum to post this but, what causes w-car rear camber to go negative? worn-bent parts? Chevy Vegas (yes I’m old) had a problem with front wheel camber. You had to bend the front cross member to get the camber in a range to where it could be adjusted normally. I’m thinking of putting camber bolts in the rear of my daughters Impala. Will the rear tow need to be adjusted with the camber change? Thanks.
5 deg ATDC? did you try advancing the timing a little to see if it runs any better? 1966 might have worn timing chain. Eric has a video on how to check that. You might have had the vacuum gauge connected to ported vacuum for the carb adjustment. You need to be connected to either manifold vacuum either a port directly off the intake or a tap on the carb that come from below the throttle blades. You talking the carb base gasket? I would think just a linkage adjustment on the choke would compensate for gasket thickness. Is the choke coil is on the intake manifold with a rod going to the choke plate shaft? I wouldn’t put any gasket sealers on a carb.
We didn’t have one of those type sockets for the sheet metal lug nuts (probably the tool companies didn’t think of it yet at that time) but one for different sized lug nuts on each end. We just used a 3″ extension with a short nosed impact gun. It was the shop socket so finding it when you needed it was a rare occurrence. We just hammered on a close fit socket to remove the crumpled up sheet metal ones.