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I think alot of people get the terms “purge” and “flush” confused when it comes to transmissions. Hooking up a purge machine that is simply replacing fluid as its draining out the old does not hurt the transmission at all. The high power flush machines that blow crap around inside your transmission is the ones that are harmful.
I think alot of people get the terms “purge” and “flush” confused when it comes to transmissions. Hooking up a purge machine that is simply replacing fluid as its draining out the old does not hurt the transmission at all. The high power flush machines that blow crap around inside your transmission is the ones that are harmful.
What kind of plugs are you running? i have seen those engines raise hell if anything but copper core plugs are used in them…
I would also check to make sure all your connections at the coils and at the battery are clean and tight. Dodge PCM’s are know to through mis-codes when it has weak voltage. Also i would have your battery tested as well.
If all that checks out then i would have to lean towards the coil pak itself starting to fail or the wires leading to #4 got damaged some how.
What kind of plugs are you running? i have seen those engines raise hell if anything but copper core plugs are used in them…
I would also check to make sure all your connections at the coils and at the battery are clean and tight. Dodge PCM’s are know to through mis-codes when it has weak voltage. Also i would have your battery tested as well.
If all that checks out then i would have to lean towards the coil pak itself starting to fail or the wires leading to #4 got damaged some how.
[quote=”r8er4ever” post=102089]OK, balance test didn’t revel much because when it did mess up, it would clear up before I could do much. But freeze frame data says it happens at CTS=same as ambient fuel=open loop RPM=338. So like I said I think its setting code at start up then after 3-5 seconds it clears up. And it is so intermittent but does seam to be more frequent with the A/C on. Maybe a crank sensor? but then why always #4? No detectable vacuum leaks around intake excellent compression?? Listening to the injector it sounds fine(like all the others). I think scannerdanner has something about checking current flow on injectors might try that. maybe just a slow/sticky injector at start up.[/quote]
What motor are we talking about here???
[quote=”r8er4ever” post=102089]OK, balance test didn’t revel much because when it did mess up, it would clear up before I could do much. But freeze frame data says it happens at CTS=same as ambient fuel=open loop RPM=338. So like I said I think its setting code at start up then after 3-5 seconds it clears up. And it is so intermittent but does seam to be more frequent with the A/C on. Maybe a crank sensor? but then why always #4? No detectable vacuum leaks around intake excellent compression?? Listening to the injector it sounds fine(like all the others). I think scannerdanner has something about checking current flow on injectors might try that. maybe just a slow/sticky injector at start up.[/quote]
What motor are we talking about here???
[quote=”college man” post=102100]You need a quick connect fitting tool remover.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jueraGcITuU%5B/quote%5D
That video does not apply to the OP.. after 1998 Chrysler started putting the fuel filter in the fuel pump housing in the gas tank on all Jeep, Dodge and Chrysler vehicles. Only way to replace the fuel filter is to drop the tank and replace the fuel pump/filter as a whole. If the OP has a Inline filter somewhere outside the tank, its a aftermarket one someone added.
[quote=”college man” post=102100]You need a quick connect fitting tool remover.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jueraGcITuU%5B/quote%5D
That video does not apply to the OP.. after 1998 Chrysler started putting the fuel filter in the fuel pump housing in the gas tank on all Jeep, Dodge and Chrysler vehicles. Only way to replace the fuel filter is to drop the tank and replace the fuel pump/filter as a whole. If the OP has a Inline filter somewhere outside the tank, its a aftermarket one someone added.
[quote=”Tedybear315″ post=101743]I’ve never heard of it personally.
That being said? One thing I HATE to see anyone replacing a converter do? Is not address any issues of what caused it to fail in the first place. Other then design flaws and mechanical breakdown of the internal parts. Sadly most auto repair ‘jiffy’ type shops will just throw in a new converter—solve the usually annoying P0420 code (the computers way of making sure the converter is doing it’s job).. Without addressing the “Why it happened”? Will almost assure it will fail again over time.
If things have not been checked out? I would at least check and see if the onboard computer can relay fuel trim numbers. (disregard if the failed item was corrected–in that case a jolly “Well Done” is in order…or mechanical fail happened (aka, hit something in the road, smashed converter..etc..) With the expense of some converters costing about a grand in some cases? I like to be sure the cause has been found/corrected.
S-[/quote]
i agree 100% B)
The reason for the replacement is that the previous owner did one heck of a hack job to the current exhaust system. Left it with at least 3-4 areas where there are some serious leaks, one being between the upstream O2 sensor and the cat. This cause the truck to run rich and the fool decided it be okay to drive it for 2 years like this. I was planning to address this last spring then my transmission tanked so i put it on hold till i got that fixed. Now that the weather is warm again i attempted to seal the leaks better but, when i did i started noticing lack of power. The muffler is starting to get really rusted so i am going to replace it with a Magnaflow system. I also figure since the cash flow is there, rather than rig up a hacked converter that is probably damaged and since i plan on later putting in a proformence engine i thought i would throw in a direct fit Magnaflow cat as well as 2 new Os sensors.
[quote=”Tedybear315″ post=101743]I’ve never heard of it personally.
That being said? One thing I HATE to see anyone replacing a converter do? Is not address any issues of what caused it to fail in the first place. Other then design flaws and mechanical breakdown of the internal parts. Sadly most auto repair ‘jiffy’ type shops will just throw in a new converter—solve the usually annoying P0420 code (the computers way of making sure the converter is doing it’s job).. Without addressing the “Why it happened”? Will almost assure it will fail again over time.
If things have not been checked out? I would at least check and see if the onboard computer can relay fuel trim numbers. (disregard if the failed item was corrected–in that case a jolly “Well Done” is in order…or mechanical fail happened (aka, hit something in the road, smashed converter..etc..) With the expense of some converters costing about a grand in some cases? I like to be sure the cause has been found/corrected.
S-[/quote]
i agree 100% B)
The reason for the replacement is that the previous owner did one heck of a hack job to the current exhaust system. Left it with at least 3-4 areas where there are some serious leaks, one being between the upstream O2 sensor and the cat. This cause the truck to run rich and the fool decided it be okay to drive it for 2 years like this. I was planning to address this last spring then my transmission tanked so i put it on hold till i got that fixed. Now that the weather is warm again i attempted to seal the leaks better but, when i did i started noticing lack of power. The muffler is starting to get really rusted so i am going to replace it with a Magnaflow system. I also figure since the cash flow is there, rather than rig up a hacked converter that is probably damaged and since i plan on later putting in a proformence engine i thought i would throw in a direct fit Magnaflow cat as well as 2 new Os sensors.
[quote=”barneyb” post=101711]I pretty sure there’s no break in for a cat. Most people would have it done at a shop and then have to drive home.
On the other hand, if doing that 7 minute break in makes you feel better about it then do it.[/quote]
one of the manufactures sites that i visited touched on the topic without a proper break in it could lead to premature failure.. My thought is what would a shop care if it fails? your most likely going to come to them to have a new one installed anyways when it does… that’s why i ask what “should” be done.