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Were there other mechanical issues I could look at? Any reason EGR would predominately effect one cylinder? the other cylinders are just random misfires, but #6 is dead.
Thanks Eric,
We did a power balance test and cylinder six was still the primary culprit — we have moved the coils and then the plugs with no change, it was still a number six misfire right at start up after clearing the ECU. The coils were ohm tested, and I agree this test is kinda useless– so we also stuck a spark tester in each coil and saw them jumping over an inch with healthy spark. The computer is providing goos signal according to the lab scope too.
Once the car was started live data was showing misfires on 6, and then eventually 4, which was followed by a P0300 and P1399, P0301, P0302, P0304, P0305 — the CEL also started flashing right after start up due to #6.
Before Cylinder six became a dead misfire I had already pulled the EGR cover on top of the manifold. There was a little carbon build up with I clean from the passage ways, but nothing compared to other Honda/Acura J-serise engines I’ve seen. My mechanic says he’s pulled the EGR valve just in the off chance that it was plugged, but could find nothing wrong there.
Intake gasket looked like it may have started to fail by #6 so we have that and an injector going in just to rule them out at this point. When the injector arrives we’ll also inspect the fuel real to see if there is anything flaked off plugging the passage to that cylinder (it’s already going to be off, don’t honestly think this is the case). I could swap the injectors from one side to the other, but don’t feel like paying for labor tearing it back apart if that confirmed a faulty injector.
Had the same feeling about the ohm test, so I had the coils swapped from one side to the other, misfire didn’t change, followed that with moving spark plugs . Tried moving injectors and no change.
It just ocored to me whilst reading through the the diagnostic prosedures in the Acura service manual, my the VTEC pressure switch is leaking oil — I had previously confused this with the oil pressure switch, and as suchthought nothing of it. Now that I see the VTEC causes misfire at low RPM and under load I’ll be trouble shooting that. I’ll most likely replace the switch since it’s clearly failed, and pull the solenoid off to have a look at the piston and see if it’s seized in place, as well as pulling the gasket with the wire screen to check for any oil blockage (see part 15825-P8A-A01).
I agree with the above- I think what you may have going on is a misfire on one or more of your cylinders which would make your engine shake esp. when the car is cold and more oil may be on the plugs. change those seal (they’ll come in a kit for the valve cover) and also double check the torque of your plugs.
Depending on when it was last done (if it was) it may not be a bad idea to do the seal, plugs, wires & cap + rotor.
I agree with the above- I think what you may have going on is a misfire on one or more of your cylinders which would make your engine shake esp. when the car is cold and more oil may be on the plugs. change those seal (they’ll come in a kit for the valve cover) and also double check the torque of your plugs.
Depending on when it was last done (if it was) it may not be a bad idea to do the seal, plugs, wires & cap + rotor.
Thanks Eric,
Great video which I watched right before pulling my head off- unfortunately (fortunately?) on Honda/Acura they give only one torque value for each step. On the 2.0 Zetec each step come with 2 numbers, so I don’t know if I can just torque to any value that’s between the two (really wide open) or if there is a more accurate explanation.
A good friend of mine who trained at AVTEC in Alaska thought with the last step in degrees that maybe I was to rotate 120 and come back 90 degrees… I seem to recall there being a similar step on my Honda harmonic balancer which was also a TTY type bolt, however he was still stumped by steps one and two.
#1 15-22 ft. lbs.
#2 30-37 ft. lbs.
#3 tighten 90 to 120 degreesThanks Eric,
Great video which I watched right before pulling my head off- unfortunately (fortunately?) on Honda/Acura they give only one torque value for each step. On the 2.0 Zetec each step come with 2 numbers, so I don’t know if I can just torque to any value that’s between the two (really wide open) or if there is a more accurate explanation.
A good friend of mine who trained at AVTEC in Alaska thought with the last step in degrees that maybe I was to rotate 120 and come back 90 degrees… I seem to recall there being a similar step on my Honda harmonic balancer which was also a TTY type bolt, however he was still stumped by steps one and two.
#1 15-22 ft. lbs.
#2 30-37 ft. lbs.
#3 tighten 90 to 120 degreesYa when mine went out I picked one up a WB sending unit for pretty cheap- when I installed it it was running in the red when the ECU was still showing normal operating temps on the highway. Some research over on contour.org told me this was a common problem on the 2.0L Zetec… they either read hot or don’t work. 😳
Ya when mine went out I picked one up a WB sending unit for pretty cheap- when I installed it it was running in the red when the ECU was still showing normal operating temps on the highway. Some research over on contour.org told me this was a common problem on the 2.0L Zetec… they either read hot or don’t work. 😳
Ok so I’m not on my computer right now but your ’98 2.0 Escort should be like my ’96 2.0 Contour- on your thermostat housing you have a sensor on both the top and bottom. The one on the bottom is a two wire sender that drives the temp gauge, to test this you’ll need a jump wire jump one wire to ground and flip the key on for a sec if the gauge does not go up jump the other side of the sensor to ground and go again (do NOT let the gauge peak)
If the gauge works it will go full hot, if not get a new Motorcraft sender as the after market gauges for the 2.0 read WAY to hot.For the fan issue I would start by flipping your A/C on max- if you have two cooling fans they should now be on if the they are good and your high speed relay & circuit is good.
You can also jump power to the fan and make sure it spins up that way.
Try that and get back to us, I’ll see if I can help more when I’m on my computer.Ok so I’m not on my computer right now but your ’98 2.0 Escort should be like my ’96 2.0 Contour- on your thermostat housing you have a sensor on both the top and bottom. The one on the bottom is a two wire sender that drives the temp gauge, to test this you’ll need a jump wire jump one wire to ground and flip the key on for a sec if the gauge does not go up jump the other side of the sensor to ground and go again (do NOT let the gauge peak)
If the gauge works it will go full hot, if not get a new Motorcraft sender as the after market gauges for the 2.0 read WAY to hot.For the fan issue I would start by flipping your A/C on max- if you have two cooling fans they should now be on if the they are good and your high speed relay & circuit is good.
You can also jump power to the fan and make sure it spins up that way.
Try that and get back to us, I’ll see if I can help more when I’m on my computer.Thanks,
that’s sorta what I was thinking- it just seems to inaccurate if I do it that way. My Honda Civic was something along the lines 1. 22 lb-ft 2. 61 lb-ft which left no question as to the final torque. I know they’re torque to yield bolts in this application, but I could go low at 45 ft. lbs. plus 90 degrees or go high which would be 59 ft. lbs. plus 120 degrees. I see a final torque being around 125+ ft. lbs all the way up to broken bolts or a stripped block lol.Thanks,
that’s sorta what I was thinking- it just seems to inaccurate if I do it that way. My Honda Civic was something along the lines 1. 22 lb-ft 2. 61 lb-ft which left no question as to the final torque. I know they’re torque to yield bolts in this application, but I could go low at 45 ft. lbs. plus 90 degrees or go high which would be 59 ft. lbs. plus 120 degrees. I see a final torque being around 125+ ft. lbs all the way up to broken bolts or a stripped block lol.When I was working up in Naknek, AK my mechanic was using Fram Extra-Guard oil filters on my vehicle, I had to switch to WIX since the anti drain back valve in the filter kept failing at negative 30-40 °F which would make it dry crank for about 30ish seconds (NOT COOL).
I’m now using Bosch, WIX, K&N or Honda if applicable. My standby if I’m in a remote area would be the Napa Gold filters.When I was working up in Naknek, AK my mechanic was using Fram Extra-Guard oil filters on my vehicle, I had to switch to WIX since the anti drain back valve in the filter kept failing at negative 30-40 °F which would make it dry crank for about 30ish seconds (NOT COOL).
I’m now using Bosch, WIX, K&N or Honda if applicable. My standby if I’m in a remote area would be the Napa Gold filters.