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I was coming home in my 95 Odyssey last Sunday night as I hit a metal expansion joint on a Bridge doing 60mph a loud shaking and bang scared the :woohoo: out of me. Not wanting to stop on this bridge I slowed down and put on the 4 ways and limped to other side where I pulled over where it was safer. It seemed to me OK as the noise wasn’t as bad so I was 2 miles from home I decided to limp on. I got close to home and it started to make a worse grinding sound so I stopped and called AAA for a tow. The driver looked under the hood with his light and told me it was my rad fan, it had 2 blades left and the shroud was broken as well. With the fan disconnected I sailed home 😆 . I picked up a new fan unit at the Wreckers and once I put new felt on the sides I will get it put in.
I drove a 100 miles on the highway to get the new fan and had no problems, kept the heat on except one time today it went up a little and I got out of the traffic jam I was in and got the heat on and it came back to normal temp fast. I did have a brief idle surging when I parked it but when it was cooled a bit it was fine.
I must have had some debris fly up and knock the fan out, I thought at first it was because it was loose. I am missing the splash guard.
Update: Help still needed,
I found a article about how to test if Master Cylinder or Booster have failed. Pumping up the brakes with engine off gets pedal firm and I can drive with no issue. If you pump the brakes til firm and hold pedal while starting the pedal sinks. The article said this was Master Cylinder failure, so I got a replacement from the parts store on warranty. I got a mechanic to do the re/re and advised him what I had found out. When I got it back he said it was not the Master it was air in the lines and he had bled it. So I drove it and the pedal was mushy and when coming to a stop the engine almost stalls. If I pump the pedal before starting I have perfect brakes and no major idle issue (it does have a slight rough idle and I feel this is due to it needing a good tune up plugs/wires/cap/rotor and PCV-all those parts look old). So after spending 50$, It was the same as it was before he bled them.
I did try the “one way to deal with a spongy brake pedal” as Eric suggests in his video-no change, but I did notice the ABS did not engage. Turning the ignition to the point where all the idiot lights come on on the dash display, I have wondered why the ABS and the Airbag indicators don’t illuminate.
The fluid in the Master is right at max fill line, no bubbles/clear.
I am taking it to another Mechanic next week, should I take the New Master ? ( I took it back but have the option to get again).
Edit: I just found that the pedal does sink after pumping it up before starting and after starting. I am not going back to the guy who bled the brakes as he didn’t top off the brake fluid. Again if I pump up the pedal-start and go it is fine no stopping issues/perfect pedal feel (not soft nor really hard), runs great. If I don’t pump them up I have a mushy pedal and it nearly stalls when braking.
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=148859]Honda’s do this sometimes. This is what I do to cure it.
If the bleeding doesn’t work, give this a try. Keep us posted on how things turn out for you.[/quote]
Can I bleed the Master or does it need to be at the 4 wheels ? Still confused why it was fine for first 2 months I drove it so why this now ? Can’t help but think this non OEM Master could be toast. After the weekend ( Canada Thanksgiving) I am going to look at the Brake fluid and see what it looks like.
This slamming the brakes on thing, how does that work with ABS ?
This reminded me of something from my first car. It was a 66 Chevy II and I was doing doughnuts in the gravel parking lot. When I drove it on blacktop it had effected the toe in and made a screeching noise going over any painted lines on the road. I fixed it by going back to the gravel and doing doughnuts in reverse !
[quote=”peshewa” post=148797]When the master cylinder was replaced, did they bleed it before installing it? If unknown, then watch Eric’s vids on that. There is definitely a procedure for this. Is the brake fluid still clear enough to see through? If it looks like strong coffee or syrup, then its contaminated with lots of moisture, and the dark color is actually rust from the inside of the hard steel lines. The cure there is a total system brake fluid flush, which is straight forward and easy to get right, again check vids on that.
If you didn’t do the work, another mechanic may not have mounted the rear pads in with the correct steps. Get some silicone brake grease and lube the caliper guide pins. My niece has a sweet element that was using a ton of fuel and not accelerating very well. Turns out all 4 calipers had one stuck guide pin each. That was a cheap repair that yielded great results.[/quote]Thanks for the great info !I ran into a neighbor who worked for many years as a brake mechanic. When I told him about my problem he said “soft pedal all the time-bleed them” “if the pedal gets hard pumping it with engine off-problem is in Master Cylinder” I suspected the Master Cylinder just because it is non OEM (and I have heard alot about problems with non OEM). The Honda Master is $260 cad and the non OEM is $90. I do have the receipt for the failed unit and it is under warranty. Seems a lot of problems can be avoided using OEM parts, I am just a little taken back by the prices, a OEM PCV is $44 cad and a jobber if 9 bucks?? When I was a Teen and I drove Ford’s, Chev’s and AMC we never thought about OEM parts.
I thought of that too, only if it was that simple would the brakes not be bad all the time ? Again after warming up the brakes are perfect and the pedal bleed is slow when cold (pedal doesn’t go to floor as soon as you depress it) and the brakes work well enough that I am driving it daily. Maybe this scraping sound I hear is a caliper piston problem ? The scraping noise goes away when warm as well. Maybe I have a vacuum leak to the Booster ?
Found it ! It was the ac compressor on its way out-now seized, broke belt now in Mechanics hands. And BTW it runs very nice without that ac comp noise. I ran the ac one day for a couple of minutes to see if it was cold (just bought it Aug 1-pretty sure it had that noise from day 1) I don’t know if that fried it but apparently running a ac without coolant which is the oil of that “engine” will fry the comp.
[quote=”Evil-i” post=146928]Honestly, I didn’t hear anything unusual. This is going to sound weird, but I noticed you are in a covered/enclosed parking structure. Perhaps the noise you’re hearing is an acoustic echo of the van starting.[/quote]
Same noise outside, Thanks.
[quote=”13aceofspades13″ post=146920]any idle or running issues at a cold start with a modern engine i would suspect some sort of temp sensor, but your start up almost sounds normal, seems to run ok after the fact… even hard to tell there is a noise.
Try filming with the camera pointing at the exhaust… if there is going to be any choking at start up you are going to hear it at the exhaust.[/quote]
I will try that, Thanks. And yes it does run great, and later when warm this noise is less noticeable
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