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bingo..draw seems to be from altenator circuit..unfortunately we destroyed the fuse trying to remove it so need to buy a new one to test..would this mean a new alternator or perhaps wiring from alternator is fubar?
bingo..draw seems to be from altenator circuit..unfortunately we destroyed the fuse trying to remove it so need to buy a new one to test..would this mean a new alternator or perhaps wiring from alternator is fubar?
survey says….broken ignition switch actuator
400 dollars later car is running againsurvey says….broken ignition switch actuator
400 dollars later car is running againUpdate,
Today vehicle started normally although there was a little bit of knock (thought maybe a cylinder misfiring or just cold)
Drove for about 10 mins and no overheat. Let sit at idle for a further 20 mins, stayed at or near the lower 1/3 of heat guage.
Pulled out one of the sensors near the thermostat prior to all this to see if fluid was present and it came pouring out as soon as the plug was removed so block is full.
Had to add about 500ml fluid to the rad, overflow is still good.
Fan kicked in once heat got to about just below 1/3
Found out trans fluid and oil were low.
So far no overheat at all and no apparent leaks.
Exhaust did not have a sweet smell and was not white
heater seems to be working fine now.Looking back on this it may yet have been a coolant mix issue. This car apparently holds 9 litres of coolant and i only put about 4l of concentrate into it then topped off with water. Quite possible the mix isn’t quite right and it froze. at some point in the system.
Today seems to be running fine.
Gonna let wife drive it around town for now to see how it does before i take it on long commutes. Probably replace rad as well if all is going well.once again thanks for the help
Update,
Today vehicle started normally although there was a little bit of knock (thought maybe a cylinder misfiring or just cold)
Drove for about 10 mins and no overheat. Let sit at idle for a further 20 mins, stayed at or near the lower 1/3 of heat guage.
Pulled out one of the sensors near the thermostat prior to all this to see if fluid was present and it came pouring out as soon as the plug was removed so block is full.
Had to add about 500ml fluid to the rad, overflow is still good.
Fan kicked in once heat got to about just below 1/3
Found out trans fluid and oil were low.
So far no overheat at all and no apparent leaks.
Exhaust did not have a sweet smell and was not white
heater seems to be working fine now.Looking back on this it may yet have been a coolant mix issue. This car apparently holds 9 litres of coolant and i only put about 4l of concentrate into it then topped off with water. Quite possible the mix isn’t quite right and it froze. at some point in the system.
Today seems to be running fine.
Gonna let wife drive it around town for now to see how it does before i take it on long commutes. Probably replace rad as well if all is going well.once again thanks for the help
Thanks for the replies guys.
Freezing coolant is unlikely to be the cause as this was occuring in above freezing weather.
Hoping it isnt a head gasket 🙁
Is there a bleed valve on the 3.0l engine for the dynasty? If so where is it. Was looking but can’t seem to locate it.
Water pump to my knowledge has not been replaced but seems to be working ok.
System also seems to pressurize well with no obvious external leaks.
Cap has already been replaced.As added info. This am after it cooled i looked at the resevoir and about half the fluid that was there in when warm was gone. I also had to add about a liter of fluid to the rad. There seemed to be air trapped in the top rad hose.
This seems to confirm an air issue?
If someone could tell me where the bleed valve is (if there is one) that would go along way.Thanks again.
Thanks for the replies guys.
Freezing coolant is unlikely to be the cause as this was occuring in above freezing weather.
Hoping it isnt a head gasket 🙁
Is there a bleed valve on the 3.0l engine for the dynasty? If so where is it. Was looking but can’t seem to locate it.
Water pump to my knowledge has not been replaced but seems to be working ok.
System also seems to pressurize well with no obvious external leaks.
Cap has already been replaced.As added info. This am after it cooled i looked at the resevoir and about half the fluid that was there in when warm was gone. I also had to add about a liter of fluid to the rad. There seemed to be air trapped in the top rad hose.
This seems to confirm an air issue?
If someone could tell me where the bleed valve is (if there is one) that would go along way.Thanks again.
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