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Well after looking at it again this afternoon, silly me need to remember how to read a multimeter. After re-looking at my the ground is .01v, the alternator is running 14+v at the battery and around 13.4 to 13.6 with everything on. Now I watch the voltage when the car died and really did not see it drop until after the car shut itself off.
As for the iac I am kinda confused as to which is which as for the parts houses they are saying one or the other. In the shop manual they have air control valve and air bypass solenoid valve. My car was the first year Mazda had fuel injection and neither part is cheap.
Oh I forgot to mention I have the Shop manual for my car too with wiring diagrams.
Well after looking at it again this afternoon, silly me need to remember how to read a multimeter. After re-looking at my the ground is .01v, the alternator is running 14+v at the battery and around 13.4 to 13.6 with everything on. Now I watch the voltage when the car died and really did not see it drop until after the car shut itself off.
As for the iac I am kinda confused as to which is which as for the parts houses they are saying one or the other. In the shop manual they have air control valve and air bypass solenoid valve. My car was the first year Mazda had fuel injection and neither part is cheap.
Oh I forgot to mention I have the Shop manual for my car too with wiring diagrams.
I just did it and it is reading a 1 volt less than what it says at the alternator. I also did the ground test like Eric had in his video and it appears I have a ground issue. Unfortunately mother nature is not going to allow me to work on my car today. So it may be a few days before I post any results after fixing it.
I just did it and it is reading a 1 volt less than what it says at the alternator. I also did the ground test like Eric had in his video and it appears I have a ground issue. Unfortunately mother nature is not going to allow me to work on my car today. So it may be a few days before I post any results after fixing it.
I used a multimeter. I test the lead going to battery while the car is off it gave me 12+v and I stuck it to the other connection wires to make sure there is no voltage bleed through to them. Then I started the car checked voltage while everything is on and the wire going to batter was 14+v and the lead to the ignition is 14+v and the lead that goes to the cluster(alternator light) was 13+v.
Atleast that is what my Haynes manual told me how to test it.
I used a multimeter. I test the lead going to battery while the car is off it gave me 12+v and I stuck it to the other connection wires to make sure there is no voltage bleed through to them. Then I started the car checked voltage while everything is on and the wire going to batter was 14+v and the lead to the ignition is 14+v and the lead that goes to the cluster(alternator light) was 13+v.
Atleast that is what my Haynes manual told me how to test it.