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I think dtidman might have a good suggestion – check your A/C system. It is designed to take the moisture out of your air and comes on automatically on most new cars as soon as you go to defrost. If your A/C is on the fritz then you could get the fogged windshield with no leaks from your heater core.
PROBLEM SOLVED:
After finding the bad ground on my MAP sensor connector I chased the wiring harness and found nothing wrong. Checked the ECU and all connections, still nothing. Then while staring at the engine and contemplating I noticed that a wire, which as far as I know is run out to the engine compartment for an accessory that is not on my car, had become jammed between my side engine mount and the chassis (the wire must have fell down while I was doing the timing belt) and I didn’t notice it there when I put the mount back on. This wire was obviously carrying a voltage since it played havoc on my emissions control system. Once I removed the mount and wrapped the end of the wire the problem was solved. Thanks to everyone who reponded.Sounds like you could have an air lock in your system. I would try bleeding the air off again as it sounds like you are not getting circulation through your system.
Well, I removed my MAP sensor to test it and when I tested the connection to the sensor I found that I only have 6V instead of 12 when testing my center ground connector (negative to center pin, red to positive terminal on battery) with car in on position. This leads me to believe I have a ground issue in my wiring harness which sucks because I hate chasing grounds! Chances are I disturbed something in the wiring harness when I removed the head to change the head gasket.
Very frustrating. I have done a smoke test and can’t find any vacuum leaks. I am considering changing the fuel injectors but hate the idea of spending $300 and still have the same problem. I still think it is something small that I am overlooking. Life would be simple if it would just throw a code.
Thanks, I really believed the problem was a vacuum leak and was dismayed when the propane test turned up nothing. I will try the smoke test to see if I can find a leak. All the symptoms sure point in that direction.
I used propane. Flex hose attached to a typical torch nozzle and introduced it around all my hoses – no change in idle.
Thanks, I thought of that but it runs too perfectly at high speeds and runs “smooth” at idle even though there is a vibration (it’s not rough like a misfire). I suspect it is something I disturbed while doing the head gasket/timing and exh manifold but I can’t seem to isolate it. I have over 330,000 on it now so I suspect I will live with the speed hunt until it gets worse and throws me a code! I replaced the exhaust manifold with an aftermarket part but I don’t know if that could be the culprit (the cat looked smaller than the original)…
When buying a second hand vehicle I always change all the fluids so that I know where I stand WRT maintenance. For the transmission you should completely drain the fluid and replace it. Run the engine for a few minutes then drain it completely again and replace the fluid a second time. Following that you should drive the vehicle, cycling through all gears then drain and replace the fluid for the final time. This is generally referred to as the 3 X 3 method used by a lot of DIYs. It sounds expensive but is a proven method to ensure you don’t mess up your tranny. The reason this is done is because dirt and old particulate from the old fluid can come out of suspension if mixed with new fluid. The 3 X 3 method ensures all old fluid and particles are removed preventing them from clogging the tiny passages in your transmission.