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  • in reply to: What is the best engine you have driven/worked on? #505025
    EdEd
    Participant

      My favorite engine to work on was a 1940s era Chrysler industrial flat head straight six. In 1982 I was working at an aircraft hangar in Chino CA as a parts/gopher/janitor/helper. There was an old aircraft tug that had a seized engine the boss had procured a second engine of unknown condition but better than the seized one. I spent two weeks tearing into these two engines hand lapping valves and honing cylinders. I had great help whenever I had a question. I was surrounded by gearhead aircraft mechanics that were rebuilding/servicing P51 Mustangs for the Reno air races. I guess with that learning environment, any engine would have become my favorite. I installed that engine back into the tug and gave it some fresh leaded regular and it ran perfectly. That is an engine giving back some lovin!

      I moved on to the HVAC trades but that ‘schooling’ I received from that old industrial workhorse has lasted me a lifetime.

      in reply to: What is the best engine you have driven/worked on? #506725
      EdEd
      Participant

        My favorite engine to work on was a 1940s era Chrysler industrial flat head straight six. In 1982 I was working at an aircraft hangar in Chino CA as a parts/gopher/janitor/helper. There was an old aircraft tug that had a seized engine the boss had procured a second engine of unknown condition but better than the seized one. I spent two weeks tearing into these two engines hand lapping valves and honing cylinders. I had great help whenever I had a question. I was surrounded by gearhead aircraft mechanics that were rebuilding/servicing P51 Mustangs for the Reno air races. I guess with that learning environment, any engine would have become my favorite. I installed that engine back into the tug and gave it some fresh leaded regular and it ran perfectly. That is an engine giving back some lovin!

        I moved on to the HVAC trades but that ‘schooling’ I received from that old industrial workhorse has lasted me a lifetime.

        in reply to: Oxygenated Fuel/ OBD1 Tuning #504837
        EdEd
        Participant

          Thanks for the reply.
          I have seen lots of OBD2 reprogramming tools but have yet to see one for OBD1. Can you provide a link or referral?

          Thx

          in reply to: Oxygenated Fuel/ OBD1 Tuning #506497
          EdEd
          Participant

            Thanks for the reply.
            I have seen lots of OBD2 reprogramming tools but have yet to see one for OBD1. Can you provide a link or referral?

            Thx

            in reply to: Locked up brakes??? #504762
            EdEd
            Participant

              Time to get the rear wheels back off the ground and see which wheel is draging, if it is both then you should check the e-brake adjustments. Loostening the adjustment should fix the draging brake.

              If just one wheel is binding then you probably have another problem that can be solved below.

              Identify the one that is causing the problem then disassemble. Look carefully as you disassemble for a brake pad that is canted or not straight in the caliper. Then inspect the piston and make sure it is not canted. Press the piston completely into its bore. Re-assemble the caliper and pads on the rotor and press the brake pedal. CAUTION–Be sure that you have all of the brake assemblies re-assembled before pressing on the pedal or you will shoot a piston out onto the floor. Inspect and rotate the rotor/hub. Inspect that the brake pads are flat against the rotor. Throughout the process, if you find any damaged or improperly worn items, replace them.

              Hope this helps.

              NW Dad

              in reply to: Locked up brakes??? #506423
              EdEd
              Participant

                Time to get the rear wheels back off the ground and see which wheel is draging, if it is both then you should check the e-brake adjustments. Loostening the adjustment should fix the draging brake.

                If just one wheel is binding then you probably have another problem that can be solved below.

                Identify the one that is causing the problem then disassemble. Look carefully as you disassemble for a brake pad that is canted or not straight in the caliper. Then inspect the piston and make sure it is not canted. Press the piston completely into its bore. Re-assemble the caliper and pads on the rotor and press the brake pedal. CAUTION–Be sure that you have all of the brake assemblies re-assembled before pressing on the pedal or you will shoot a piston out onto the floor. Inspect and rotate the rotor/hub. Inspect that the brake pads are flat against the rotor. Throughout the process, if you find any damaged or improperly worn items, replace them.

                Hope this helps.

                NW Dad

                in reply to: 98 nissan maxima high idle #504760
                EdEd
                Participant

                  My first thought is that you may have the A/C or Defrost turned on. The engine idle is kicked up anytime the A/C compressor clutch is engaged to compensate for the additional load on the engine. A/C is turned on anytime the defrost setting is used to aid in defrosting the windshield and keep the A/C seals in good condition during the winter.

                  Hope this helps.

                  in reply to: 98 nissan maxima high idle #506421
                  EdEd
                  Participant

                    My first thought is that you may have the A/C or Defrost turned on. The engine idle is kicked up anytime the A/C compressor clutch is engaged to compensate for the additional load on the engine. A/C is turned on anytime the defrost setting is used to aid in defrosting the windshield and keep the A/C seals in good condition during the winter.

                    Hope this helps.

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