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Now I see the importance of those, I left one of mine unhooked, should probably wire that back up! My gauge jumps around a little bit on my 93 Shadow, though it seems to also move consistently with how much cool air is passing throught he radiator
Now I see the importance of those, I left one of mine unhooked, should probably wire that back up! My gauge jumps around a little bit on my 93 Shadow, though it seems to also move consistently with how much cool air is passing throught he radiator
Ok, so I sealed the leak by temporarily installing the gauge with the included nylon tube, turned the engine with the ignition grounded to get oil in the system, then reconnected ignition and it started right up! Lifters not loud anymore but the original ticking noise is still there. While the engine was running I did a little listening around and concluded the ticking is coming from the crankshaft area. Maybe a bearing or the oil pump?
Gauge is reading in the operational range I believe. At idle was at 70 psi cold, and once warmed up it went down to somewhere between the 20 and the 25 marks. Revving the engine brings it back up and and cruising RPM I believe it sat around 50 psi. So far no other leaks and no oil is burning.
Another side note, it took less than 5 minutes for it to warm up to full operating temp with no driving, seems a little fast. I have been told that cars from that era ran hotter for emissions control so that could be it. Water gauge has always fluctuated between 1/3 and 2/3 marks when driven depending on how much air the engine is receiving.
First picture is at operating temp, second at first startup
Ok, so I sealed the leak by temporarily installing the gauge with the included nylon tube, turned the engine with the ignition grounded to get oil in the system, then reconnected ignition and it started right up! Lifters not loud anymore but the original ticking noise is still there. While the engine was running I did a little listening around and concluded the ticking is coming from the crankshaft area. Maybe a bearing or the oil pump?
Gauge is reading in the operational range I believe. At idle was at 70 psi cold, and once warmed up it went down to somewhere between the 20 and the 25 marks. Revving the engine brings it back up and and cruising RPM I believe it sat around 50 psi. So far no other leaks and no oil is burning.
Another side note, it took less than 5 minutes for it to warm up to full operating temp with no driving, seems a little fast. I have been told that cars from that era ran hotter for emissions control so that could be it. Water gauge has always fluctuated between 1/3 and 2/3 marks when driven depending on how much air the engine is receiving.
First picture is at operating temp, second at first startup
Thanks for the suggestions everyone! This site is very friendly and optimistic. Will look through that guide and check other areas too while I am working on it. Happy to hear it is possible little or no damage was done besides the leaking component.
My next challenge will be finding where to drill holes in the firewall and route the pressure hose for the gauge :silly: The sunpro gauge kit I ordered also only gave me maybe 3 feet of nylon tubing when I probably need at least 6. Will probably order a copper tubing kit. I would mount on the cowl behind the hood but the wipers and hood would probably collide with it.
Thanks for the suggestions everyone! This site is very friendly and optimistic. Will look through that guide and check other areas too while I am working on it. Happy to hear it is possible little or no damage was done besides the leaking component.
My next challenge will be finding where to drill holes in the firewall and route the pressure hose for the gauge :silly: The sunpro gauge kit I ordered also only gave me maybe 3 feet of nylon tubing when I probably need at least 6. Will probably order a copper tubing kit. I would mount on the cowl behind the hood but the wipers and hood would probably collide with it.
Thanks! I believe the filter I have for it is a purolator. I am going to install a mechanical oil guage where the electronic sender was, since the ECU clearly does not need an oil reading to run 😛 , I just have to figure out how to efficently make use of the 3 or 4 feet of tubing the kit provided lol
The filter on there right now has a date code of 02 09 07 so I imagine however that code is read that is one old filter. Will certainly be changing that!
Thanks! I believe the filter I have for it is a purolator. I am going to install a mechanical oil guage where the electronic sender was, since the ECU clearly does not need an oil reading to run 😛 , I just have to figure out how to efficently make use of the 3 or 4 feet of tubing the kit provided lol
The filter on there right now has a date code of 02 09 07 so I imagine however that code is read that is one old filter. Will certainly be changing that!
It has 120,000 miles. Luckily I found the source of the leak, it was in the oil pressure sender unit, so hopefully once that component is replaced, I can simply change the oil.
Since I turned it off before it seized or made even worse noises I am hoping it had just run out of oil when I pulled in the driveway, but the damage may have already been done like you said.
The reason I changed the seals is because there was an unknown coolant leak when I bought the car, and I figured while I have the engine out I would do all the accessible seals and clean the build up in combustion chambers. I used sea-foam to flush out any sludge or contaminants from the whole process.
Thanks for the suggestions! I will take caution when working with high mileage engines in the future!
It has 120,000 miles. Luckily I found the source of the leak, it was in the oil pressure sender unit, so hopefully once that component is replaced, I can simply change the oil.
Since I turned it off before it seized or made even worse noises I am hoping it had just run out of oil when I pulled in the driveway, but the damage may have already been done like you said.
The reason I changed the seals is because there was an unknown coolant leak when I bought the car, and I figured while I have the engine out I would do all the accessible seals and clean the build up in combustion chambers. I used sea-foam to flush out any sludge or contaminants from the whole process.
Thanks for the suggestions! I will take caution when working with high mileage engines in the future!
