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Higher idle is a different, but possibly related symptom. The exhaust smells of fuel, and is visible more translucent looking than it should be.
I did a sweep looking for a vacuum leak previously. I will give the engine another sweep looking for a vacuum leak again. I originally thought the Cat and O2 sensors would solve the problem. Since they seem to be measuring air properly, I’m now looking elsewhere for the the culprit. I have not had any real problems starting and certainly holds fine at idle. Starting up, it seems I have to hold the key a second longer than I probably should have to. At your excellent suggestions, I will check:
-Vacuum leaks again
-Cleaning the throttle body with Carb cleaner(haven’t done, but it was on my future to do list anyway).I can rule out too tight of a throttle cable, as it has at times settled down to 650 RPMS. I’ll see if I can get these done today. Thanks for the suggestions. I would love to hear more.
Higher idle is a different, but possibly related symptom. The exhaust smells of fuel, and is visible more translucent looking than it should be.
I did a sweep looking for a vacuum leak previously. I will give the engine another sweep looking for a vacuum leak again. I originally thought the Cat and O2 sensors would solve the problem. Since they seem to be measuring air properly, I’m now looking elsewhere for the the culprit. I have not had any real problems starting and certainly holds fine at idle. Starting up, it seems I have to hold the key a second longer than I probably should have to. At your excellent suggestions, I will check:
-Vacuum leaks again
-Cleaning the throttle body with Carb cleaner(haven’t done, but it was on my future to do list anyway).I can rule out too tight of a throttle cable, as it has at times settled down to 650 RPMS. I’ll see if I can get these done today. Thanks for the suggestions. I would love to hear more.
I completely understand not having a video on it now. Is it possible to write up and list possible reasons for running rich, to add to your main page? http://www.ericthecarguy.com/index.php
I absolutely agree I need to find the cause of the rich condition. After it warms up, it doesn’t run terribly rich, however idles around 850, not 650 where I believe it should(although, it sometimes WILL idle at 650, so that runs out throttle cable restrictions).
I swapped the catalytic converter and O2 sensors as they could have been causing the issue, and while they have made it better, I’m stuck where to look next.
I will give the car a good look over and double check for a vacuum leak or anywhere where pirate air could be entering the system. I’ve already verified with a friend plugging the exhaust, that there are no exhaust leaks. At least not at idle while sitting in the garage.
I’ve got the service manual I found online, and I’ve gone through it without much luck finding anything for running rich(although several of your suggestions I noticed in there). Even things you mentioned in the timing belt video I bought from you. (Thanks again, that thing was a huge time saver). (note, it ran rich before the timing belt, stayed the same after). Although, it seems like more of an issue during the colder months like now, than during the warm summer months.
I greatly appreciate all the advice you give and have been more than glad to buy the Accord videos you offer. Well worth each penny.
Unimportant issues, I don’t think are affecting it.
-need a new front axle, this will be next. Bellows boot is also cracked and will be replaced. Planning on getting my alignment and wheels balanced right after.
-need to replace the rear drum brakes. Last time I went in for an oil change, they told me they were out of adjustment and needed to be replaced(no, I don’t do my own oil. The dealership and oil places send me coupons for $12.99-$21.99 oil changes. The oil and filter are never cheaper than $23).
-oil leak. I don’t think its coming from the oil pan gasket. I don’t think it’s coming from the valve cover. Appears to be somewhere in the back of the engine. Not quite sure. I always find oil on everything in the back.I completely understand not having a video on it now. Is it possible to write up and list possible reasons for running rich, to add to your main page? http://www.ericthecarguy.com/index.php
I absolutely agree I need to find the cause of the rich condition. After it warms up, it doesn’t run terribly rich, however idles around 850, not 650 where I believe it should(although, it sometimes WILL idle at 650, so that runs out throttle cable restrictions).
I swapped the catalytic converter and O2 sensors as they could have been causing the issue, and while they have made it better, I’m stuck where to look next.
I will give the car a good look over and double check for a vacuum leak or anywhere where pirate air could be entering the system. I’ve already verified with a friend plugging the exhaust, that there are no exhaust leaks. At least not at idle while sitting in the garage.
I’ve got the service manual I found online, and I’ve gone through it without much luck finding anything for running rich(although several of your suggestions I noticed in there). Even things you mentioned in the timing belt video I bought from you. (Thanks again, that thing was a huge time saver). (note, it ran rich before the timing belt, stayed the same after). Although, it seems like more of an issue during the colder months like now, than during the warm summer months.
I greatly appreciate all the advice you give and have been more than glad to buy the Accord videos you offer. Well worth each penny.
Unimportant issues, I don’t think are affecting it.
-need a new front axle, this will be next. Bellows boot is also cracked and will be replaced. Planning on getting my alignment and wheels balanced right after.
-need to replace the rear drum brakes. Last time I went in for an oil change, they told me they were out of adjustment and needed to be replaced(no, I don’t do my own oil. The dealership and oil places send me coupons for $12.99-$21.99 oil changes. The oil and filter are never cheaper than $23).
-oil leak. I don’t think its coming from the oil pan gasket. I don’t think it’s coming from the valve cover. Appears to be somewhere in the back of the engine. Not quite sure. I always find oil on everything in the back.I hadn’t bolted it back on to the radiator yet. On a whim, I plugged the condenser fan into the Radiator fan plug, and plugged the radiator fan back into the coolant fan’s plug.
(Basically, I took the fans off, and switched them)
This time, the Radiator fan blew, but the Condenser fan ran fine.
This told me for sure, it was definitely the Radiator Fan. I’m not sure why it didn’t blow the first time I tried it.Either way, I swapped out the Radiator fan motor, and Tada! Problem solved!
I hadn’t bolted it back on to the radiator yet. On a whim, I plugged the condenser fan into the Radiator fan plug, and plugged the radiator fan back into the coolant fan’s plug.
(Basically, I took the fans off, and switched them)
This time, the Radiator fan blew, but the Condenser fan ran fine.
This told me for sure, it was definitely the Radiator Fan. I’m not sure why it didn’t blow the first time I tried it.Either way, I swapped out the Radiator fan motor, and Tada! Problem solved!
the condenser fan is running just fine on its 15 amp fuse.the radiator fan keeps blowing its 20 amp fuse.. To double check the radiator fan, I plug it into the condenser Plug. It blew the 15 amp fuse. I put a 20 amp fuse in, and the radiator fan worked fine on the coolant Plug. this indicates, the fan is OK, but something else on the radiator plug side is not.
the condenser fan is running just fine on its 15 amp fuse.the radiator fan keeps blowing its 20 amp fuse.. To double check the radiator fan, I plug it into the condenser Plug. It blew the 15 amp fuse. I put a 20 amp fuse in, and the radiator fan worked fine on the coolant Plug. this indicates, the fan is OK, but something else on the radiator plug side is not.
I don’T think its the fan. I plugged it into the cooling fan plug, and it did not blow 20 amp fuse. Which tells me it is probably running fine.
I don’T think its the fan. I plugged it into the cooling fan plug, and it did not blow 20 amp fuse. Which tells me it is probably running fine.
Wrench, Go Patriots, I remember when they went to the Final Four, the campus went crazy. My brother was attending there that year. I went to Nova, mostly Woodbridge. Pretty awesome. Know anyone looking to hire a recent graduate with a B.S. in Finance?
College Man, Fuse is blowing right away. I looked for a kink or rubbed through wire, couldn’t find anything. I pulled the fan out and tested it on the coolant fan side, it blew a 15amp fuse, but not a 20 amp fuse(the one it normally uses). I also hooked it up directly to the battery and it worked fine.
This tells me the problem is somewhere before the fan, but where?
Rubflor, The fuse only goes bad when the fan tries to turn on, and the fan is there. If I disconnect the fan, and turn on the AC(to force both fans to turn on), the fuse does NOT blow.
I’m looking at the wiring diagram, It looks like it could be the Engine Colland Temperature Switch A, Radiator Fan Relay, or Radiator Fan Control Module.
Any idea what would be best to look at first, or how I could test and eliminate any of these?