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[quote=”Evil-i” post=140668]To the original question, I don’t recommend using any oil additive, no matter what the name or the claims are.
Modern engine oils are near-magical in their qualities. They are one of the reasons modern engines run so clean for so long with such little wear. Besides, the OP is already using synthetic oil. It certainly doesn’t need to be fortified with a can of mystery milk. The only thing any additive is guaranteed to do is lighten your wallet.[/quote]
+1
Use good oil ad nothing else.
Probably not but it really depends on your definition of fit…
Will they bolt to the engine and fit in the truck? There is probably a good chance of that.
Will they interfere with anything or have clearance issues? No idea.
Will they bolt to the factory head pipe like they should? Who knows.
Unless the factory exhaust manifolds are the same chances are really low the headers will fit, check and see if the factory part numbers are the same. Even then you never know, headers tend to be larger and need more space than a manifold and there could be a fitment issue between the two.
I would say no because why would a manufacturer invest in the increased toolig and production cost of another product when they could just sell the same piece?
I agree, look for an engine performance issue.
Give us more details on what happens when you have the fault.
Is it under normal or hard acceleration?
Is there a sound associated with the problem?
Is there an RPM change? Does it jump up? Drop down?[quote=”Pitt” post=140507]I was told use an impact, it will shock the taper and break it loose. A ford senior master tech actually told me that. He gave his candles to his girlfriend.[/quote]
I’d be nervous putting an impact on a stuck bleeder screw, seems likely to bust it off.
[quote=”GearheadTool” post=140470][quote=”notoriousDUG” post=140464]OK, I’m new and confused by all this…
Did you have a mechanic replace the spider and then have a fire?
[/quote]Yes. And I am annoyed and saddened that $90 just went up in flames. I am not liking this scenario.
Does the liquid that comes out smell like gas? Based on the volume of liquid I very much doubt it is gas.
It could be water. I know just plain water was in there. SO if its water.. its a Head Gasket leak there.. right?
*I also put a LOT of water on that fire so if I try that “2” more times and liquid comes out, with no way for fuel to get in there.. it’s water.
Why have you not done a compression test or cooling system pressure test?
Because my old compression tester mysteriously disappeared and I have not been able to replace.
Only reason.[/quote]
If it was somebody’s failed repair that is causing this why are they not the one fixing it?
You have cranked this thing more than enough that if you are getting water out of it still it is getting in there somewhere; you have a larger issue.
So in all of this I can’t help but notice it seems you are getting WAY ahead of yourself here; why are you even asking about changing intake gaskets when you do not even know if that is the issue? If you do not confirm the fault, ASSume it is the intake gasket and replace it when you have a bad head gasket you just wasted a bunch of time and money ‘fixing’ things that are not the problem.
Do a cooling system pressure test and compression test, you should be able to get the tools as loaners/rentals from a local parts store. Do a cooling system test and if it leaks down you can then use the compression tester to see if have a bad head gasket or crack or are getting the water elsewhere.
OK, I’m new and confused by all this…
Did you have a mechanic replace the spider and then have a fire?
Does the liquid that comes out smell like gas? Based on the volume of liquid I very much doubt it is gas.
Why have you not done a compression test or cooling system pressure test?
The fuel in it is most likely well past bad and it is not unlikely that the carb, filter, fuel pump and tank will have issues being gummed up.
I’ve rescued quite a few old vehicles and pieces of equipment that had been sitting for long periods of time and this is my advice.
Start with the basics.
Pull the plugs and see if any water pours out. Inspect the plugs, if any are real rusty looking there is a good chance you are going to have compression issues due to rings not sealing. Squirt some light oil in all the cylinders while you have the plugs out. While you are in the land of ignition pull the cap and check for corrosion, moisture, and mice. Inspect the plug wires as well.
With the plugs out see if you can spin the engine by hand? If it does not you’re going to need to dig into that issue. If it spins bar it over enough that every cylinder passes TDC compression with nothing stopping it. You don’t want to hook a battery up, turn the key and bend a valve because one is hung or bend a rod because a cylinder is full of water.
Now is where I would usually do a compression test. If the equipment is available to you do a leak down test if not just a basic compression test. If you have a weak cylinder find out why. stuck valves are common in engines that have been sitting. Pull the valve covers and check for a stuck valve if you are losing compression through the intake or exhaust. Often a light tap with a mallet will free them up.
I usually drop the oil and coolant and replace them at this point. They are likely fine but why take the chance, they are both cheap. Check the trans fluid to make sure it is there and not full of water. Changing the trans oil is not a terrible idea either.
Throw the plugs back into it and check for spark. If you have it great if not figure out why.
Pull the inlet hose off the fuel pump and see if you get anything out or if the lines are clogged. Deal with the tank and lines as required. After that pull the inlet line off the carb and see if you get fuel there and if it is clean or full of rust or bits of fuel pump diaphragm (I am assuming a stock Chevy mechanical fuel pump). Deal with the pump as required. Now prime the carb and see if you get any fuel out of the accelerator pump. If not the carb is probably gummed up and needs to be cleaned out. Now, that this point if you want to see if it runs before investing the time into the fuel system you can also siphon feed the carb with a gas can just to see if the carb passes fuel and if the engine fires, just be VERY careful with it because, you know, gas-fire-death etc…
At this point try and start it. If you have the means prime the oiling system before the first start or, at the very least, watch the O/P gauge like a hawk and turn it off if you do not get pressure pretty much as soon as it starts. Also listen for the trans pump cavitating and turn it off if it sounds like it is running dry.
Now, as exciting as it is to have it running hold off on that first drive… Let it get to temp and really mash the brakes to make sure it isn’t going to blow out a rotted brake line now that it has power assist again.
Excellent advice across the board here.
That one plug is horribly oil fouled as has already been stated and there is for sure an oil consumption issue. However for one to be THAT bad compared to the rest it could be from that plug getting no spark or poor spark and not burning the oil off as much as the other ones are.
I’m confused, you’re upset because you spent to much money on your truck account and now have to pay the bill?
Was moving the P/S cooler and going to all that trouble really a time saver? I am always wary of ‘time savings’ like that one.
I will often switch to a smaller ratchet for hard to get stuff once it is broken loose to get more room to swing it. Also an excellent example of why it pays to buy good ratchets with lots of engagement points.
He all!
Not specifically a auto-tech but a long time mechanic ad recent fan of the ETGC1 videos. I currently work on material handling and ariel lift equipment and spend most of my time doing road service. In the past I’ve done fleet service for a landscape company, heavy equipment and tractor trailers.