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[quote=”wafrederick” post=141459]Chryler products don’t have transmission problems,it is errors done by someone that does not know how to rebuild them right and not using the ATF+4 fluid.Misdiagnosis too.Last one was a Chrysler minivan,a fluid and filter change and computer change fixed this one.The filter was plugged up and showed a couple codes for a bad computer for the transmission.Did pour the ATF+4 fluid in too.[/quote]
Yeah, I am pretty sure they do actually…
First off it’s spelled BRAKE not break when you are referring to the things that stop your car; if you are a mechanic by trade that is an important distinction to pay attention to if you want to appear competent and professional.
The parking brake is going to have nothing to do with this unless you has applied it at some point on your drive, the parking brake on that is cable operated so there is nothing that is going to make it apply itself….
Is that van disc or drum rear brakes? I forget what Ford had in that year, I am assuming drum because you were talking about looking at the hardware.
I would keep an eye towards hydraulic related issues over mechanical ones. Mechanically stuck brakes usually will not release on their own after sitting like that. Look for things that could be preventing fluid from flowing back into the system from the wheel cylinders like a bad brake hose or a crimped brake line somewhere. The master cylinder is possible but I don’t think as likely, change it only after everything else checks out OK and you have checked for proper pushrod adjustment.
It is entirely possible for the battery to be going bad depending on the kind of use it has seen, have you load tested the battery?
How about the charging system? Have you checked it under load?
Always confirm the basics, never assume something is good/bed until you have tested it to ensure it is good. It really sucks to reqire a car over a burned out lightbulb…
Car-part.com is fantastic.
You can do it in a single garage on the ground, but you will need to invest in or borrow an engine crane. It is still way less then having it done or replacing a car.
[quote=”drthrift035″ post=141257]Based on my personal experience. I how places like ACTIVE GREEN & ROSS, FORD, TOYOTA ETC function. You bring your vehicle in and the used certain ploys to suck money from you. For example low cost Oil Changes to tell you that you need to change all these parts on your vehicle which is often not true. Why because they want money. Supposedly when they fix the vehicle you have the same problem resurface soon after and they are ready to suck more money.
I once paid $1,230 for a tune up and less than 3 weeks later the problem resurfaced. The DEALERSHIP wanted more money to look it over and it was their fault for not doing the job right. They did not change all of the spark plugs, coils etc. That is just one instance. Check this out. You have to be a PIECE OF GARBAGE if you do stuff like that. When you work on the same type of vehicles all day at a dealership and you still F*** Up. Come on. Crooks are Crooks simple as that. The level of Mechanics here is Super Low and their greed is Super High.[/quote]
So you’re excited to see businesses you have never patronized go out of business because you had a bad experience at another business? Sounds legit to me…
Eastwood sells a kit to clean and seal fuel tanks, much cheaper than replacing it if you just have an issue with old gas and some corrosion. I’ve used it on motorcycle tanks before quite a bit and it works great.
What is your reasoning behind the statement that all shops are ripping people off?
Why do you think dealers are frauds?
[quote=”cap269″ post=141211]Oil is cheap, engines are not. Providing (and assuming) that significant damage has not already been done to the moving parts, this is a tried and true method that I have used over the years to clean out an engine.
1) Get a gallon of 10W-40 motor oil, 2 quarts of auto trans fluid (ATF), 2 oil filters, a gallon of your regular motor oil, and a quart of mineral spirits paint thinner. Some people use lacquer thinner. That probably works also, but I’ve always used mineral spirits.
2) Drain old oil and remove filter. When the drain plug is first removed, collect an ounce or so of the used oil and reserve for diagnostic.
3) Install new oil filter (and drain plug!).
4) Add the quart of mineral spirits to the crankcase and fill the rest of the way (up to 1/2 of the gallon) with the 10W-40.
5) Run the engine and let it idle until warm and then take it for a short 10-15 minute drive.While waiting for the engine to warm up, with that ounce of oil collected, pour it out over a white paper towel or tissue paper. Look at the paper under a bright light (or daylight) for metal flakes. If it’s sparkly and looks like glitter then the bearings have experienced a considerable amount of wear (could be a death knell).
After the short drive, drain and refill as before, but use a quart of ATF instead of the mineral spirits. Drive the vehicle normally for 100-200 miles, then drain the oil and replace the oil filter. Refill the crankcase with 1 quart of ATF and the rest with the regular motor oil you normally use. Drive normally again, up to 500-1000 miles, then replace the oil filter and oil as per usual custom. You may continue to add 1 pint of ATF to your regular oil henceforth, if desired.
If you do find glitter in your oil, you may choose to consider other options, as that is not a good sign. However, if there is no significant metal in the oil, you may have gotten lucky and dodged a fatal bullet.[/quote]
This is a good course of action in my opinion, but I would maybe also suggest pulling an oil sample from your initial drain and sending it out for analysis to see if they can tell you what the heck is on your oil because it is really, really weird looking. Has any work been done on the engine before this happened? It looks like *something* got into the engine…
I would also highly recommend AGAINST using lacquer thinner instead of the mineral spirits. Lacquer thinner may damage engine seals and cause rubber and RTV seals to soften and possibly end up in the engine.
Why isn’t getting a new job something you can do? Having a job doesn’t mean you cannot look for another; I was employed when I found the job I have now.
Have you talked to any of the management where you work about it? You never go anywhere unless you make it clear it is something you require from them. Let them know that you want to do more is a clear and simple manner.
As stated above first give a once over of the install to make sure everything is as it should be there.
When you did the brake job did you clamp off the brake lines while changing the calipers? If you did that could be causing the issue; crimping down old brake lines can smash them enough they never open up again and restrict the flow of fluid back to the master cylinder and cause the calipers not to release.
You could also have a master cylinder issue but considering it was fine before I cannot imagine it just randomly went bad. It would, however, be worth checking the pushrod adjustment at the pedal. Usually there is some adjustment there and having it to tight will not let the piston return far enough to let fluid back in from the calipers. Check to make sure that you have free play at the pedal before it starts to actuate the master cylinder.
Not related to your lack of return on the calipers you should have no fluid coming out of the system anywhere regardless of how close an eye you keep on the fluid level. Leaks never get better, they only get worse over time and if fluid can get out air and moisture can get in to contaminate the system.
If it is seized you need to replace to rebuild the engine.
If you want to get dow ad dirty with it you can try to knock the motor loose and see if it still runs but it is never going to run fantastic after that.
LPG is everywhere, it;s just trying to find somewhere willing to pump it into a vehicle tank. As a country we are pretty resistant to alternative fuels.
A torque converter can’t really be low on fluid, it gets filled by the pump when the trans is running. You should fill the converter partially on install so it doesn’t spin dry on start up but it does not need to be ‘topped off’ if the trans shows full on the dipstick.
Where was the level on the stick when you checked it before service? There is a very good chance you over serviced it and it is coming out the seal because you have to much fluid in it.
Your clunk could be from mounts, was the noise there before?